Question on Norway Spruce trees
- Thread starter jjj70095
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moen_lake
Member
We have a couple of them up at our property in Rhinelander. Beautiful trees!!! Haven't had any issue with deer eating them. I think they would be OK for privacy but think Balsams would be a better option for a privacy screen?
dfattack
Well-known member
I have all of the trees mentioned so far. Arbor Vitae are candy for deer. I have had deer up north eat anything that is green once the snow gets deep and they are getting hungry. Can't blame them I guess. Deer down in Illinois eat different plants than the deer up north, but when food gets scarce they will eat almost anything including buds on the ends of bare branches.
With that said Norway Spruce are one of my favorite spruce trees. I have a double row of about 30 Norways and they provide a superior block. I planted Colorado's and black hills at the same time and half are already gone from disease and I was treating them every year by a professional. Norways are doing great. The weeping branches look really nice if they stay healthy. I have seen some individual spruce that have thinned out and it doesn't look too nice. In a staggered row to provide a block they work very nice. My Illinois landscaper was hesitant to use them where I did since they were out in the open and thought the winter winds could wind burn the west side. That turned out to be a non-issue. I planted them around 20 years ago and they are approximately 30' tall now and doing great. One last note about all of these species...they need sun to remain healthy and thick to provide a privacy screen.
Hope that helps.
With that said Norway Spruce are one of my favorite spruce trees. I have a double row of about 30 Norways and they provide a superior block. I planted Colorado's and black hills at the same time and half are already gone from disease and I was treating them every year by a professional. Norways are doing great. The weeping branches look really nice if they stay healthy. I have seen some individual spruce that have thinned out and it doesn't look too nice. In a staggered row to provide a block they work very nice. My Illinois landscaper was hesitant to use them where I did since they were out in the open and thought the winter winds could wind burn the west side. That turned out to be a non-issue. I planted them around 20 years ago and they are approximately 30' tall now and doing great. One last note about all of these species...they need sun to remain healthy and thick to provide a privacy screen.
Hope that helps.
Df attack, can you post a pic? or send me one at jjj70095@yahoo.com I just need to 30 feet of privacy.
Agree with disease issues with Blue Spruce trees. We put in a conservation wind break 40 years back, Blue Spruce, and Norway. Blue Spruce are going away fast now. Balsam Fur would be a good choice. We will be planting Balsums to fill back out our the dead Blues. I also have a few Black Hills Spruce, and they have not been affect with any disease?
pclark
Well-known member
I agree on the Blue Spruce, when we sold our place down in southern Wis. most of the blues I planted had the fungus as well as most of them don that way. They die from the bottom up.
Needle scale is what gets most of the spruces. Colorado Blues are the worst. Norways get it bad down here in central IL. too. Black hills are supposed to be pretty resistant, but they don’t grow vey fast. They are a more short and fat variety. If your looking at Arbs I’d use dark greens (Negra). They are good dense trees. I have a row of them on 7 ft center. They were 6 foot when I planted them 3 years ago and you cannot see thru or between them. Techny are another but not quite as dense. Deer don’t seem to bother them much around here, unlike Emeralds which look like popsicles where the deer are bad.
‘As far as treating Spruce for needle scale, timing is critical in the spring. They need to be sprayed when new needle growth starts and then again about 3 weeks later. When doing plantation style layouts, that tends to worsen the risk for disease due to less air movement.
‘As far as treating Spruce for needle scale, timing is critical in the spring. They need to be sprayed when new needle growth starts and then again about 3 weeks later. When doing plantation style layouts, that tends to worsen the risk for disease due to less air movement.
can you send me a pic of the negra AV? jjj70095@yahoo.com
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I'm impressed, pretty good info here. The Deer will eat Norway Spruce if they are very hungry. I have seen them eat BHS also when they are
starving. Emerald green Arbs are like Candy to them, and dark Green Arbs are very fast growing and a good border Tree.
If you are north of Hwy 29 Balsam or White Pine are your best bet. They have very few Disease issues and they are very nice-looking Trees. Deer do not eat Balsam Fir. Balsam will also tolerate more shade. Any Evergreen should have 50% Sun.
If you can find any Trees to buy this spring make sure you plant B&B high, no dirt over the Ball.
Colorado Spruce should only be planted in full Sun south of Hwy 29, no closer than 20 ft apart. They get Rhizophora Needle cast otherwise.
We spray CS about 3 times 10 days apart starting at Bud break with a Fungicide that contains Clorithinal. They should never be planted in a lawn with Irrigation.
I suggest looking around your area and plant what looks the best.
starving. Emerald green Arbs are like Candy to them, and dark Green Arbs are very fast growing and a good border Tree.
If you are north of Hwy 29 Balsam or White Pine are your best bet. They have very few Disease issues and they are very nice-looking Trees. Deer do not eat Balsam Fir. Balsam will also tolerate more shade. Any Evergreen should have 50% Sun.
If you can find any Trees to buy this spring make sure you plant B&B high, no dirt over the Ball.
Colorado Spruce should only be planted in full Sun south of Hwy 29, no closer than 20 ft apart. They get Rhizophora Needle cast otherwise.
We spray CS about 3 times 10 days apart starting at Bud break with a Fungicide that contains Clorithinal. They should never be planted in a lawn with Irrigation.
I suggest looking around your area and plant what looks the best.
pclark
Well-known member
If I was to plant I would do White pines, they grow fast, have soft needles, and don't seem to be affected by any disease.
Downfalls are that you have to get them established and growing before the deer eat them, they shed their needles every fall and the larger the tree the more you have to rake up. I used the needles in my beds around my house and yard so completely sustainable and no need to buy mulch. You get the look of how they mulch with pine needles in the south.
Downfalls are that you have to get them established and growing before the deer eat them, they shed their needles every fall and the larger the tree the more you have to rake up. I used the needles in my beds around my house and yard so completely sustainable and no need to buy mulch. You get the look of how they mulch with pine needles in the south.
Agre
Agee with all that. However, they do seem to be more susceptible to high wind damage, and ice storms more so than others.
dfattack
Well-known member
White pines in the shady area the OP has will only thin out at the bottom and shoot to the sky for light. The intended purpose was for a block. If it was full sun then White pine would work. In his situation they will thin out and then have only a trunk with needles at the top. I have seen the pictures where he wants to plant.
BTW, deer will eat anything green when they are starving in the north woods. Especially if you planted it...trust me
BTW, deer will eat anything green when they are starving in the north woods. Especially if you planted it...trust me