Race Fuel
- Thread starter maddogg
- Start date
Dirty70Firebird
Member
if you run it in something with an O2 sensor, bad stuff can happen to the O2 sensor. Also with race fuel is usually higher octane, which slows down the flame front, and you will loose power if timing is not changed. Best to run 91 non-ethanol if you can find it.
G
G
Guest
Race gas in small motors is unnecessary. The only reason I can think of to use race gas is that it will not break down over time like 87 ethanol pump gas which has a shelf life of 28 days. As Dirty70Firebird stated find some 91 non-ethanol. I have used this for years in all of my small motors with great success. Plus it is way cheaper than race gas.
So change that timing, lose the "loose" power and get "tight" power instead! Yeah!
devilish100LL av fuel is 3.99 by me right now was at airport with a bud today filling some cans
srt20
Active member
Yep, 3.89 here. Been 3.89 for a year.
Premium in cooke was 3.39. I would imagine premium is 3.50 or more in Tog.
I agree with some of the posts above as putting premium fuel in a engine that does not require it does not improve performance and will in fact hinder it, at my shop i am still shocked how many people will drive to another county to get gas for their lawn mower, and buy the premium because it starts better or gets more horsepower when this is all a mind set, everything since the 90's has been made to run on alcohol fuels ans it wasnt that the engine wouldnt run on it or it would blow up engines it was the rubber componnents, like fuel line, o-rings, gaskets, carburetor componnents that weren't resistant to the fuel, in fact if you are not buying what they call off road fuel or pre canned fuel it is all reformulated and some fuels depending on area have alcohol in it. You cant get the fuel we had 15 -20 years ago that you could keep a supply of in your garage just to have it. there is nothing wrong with ethenol fuels as long as you treat it properly, dont keep for any extended period of time untreated and be sure to use a fuel treatment made for ethenol fuels and make sure it has metal deactivators in it to prevent corrosion in case of phase seperation, I own an outdoor power equipment shop and wont lie, probably 60 percent of all repairs are fuel related, I don't go out of town and purchase my fuel, I dont go to the raceway and I dont and wont buy any of that $8.00 a quart pre canned fuel and i can honestly say I dont have any problems. I do however treat my fuel during seasonal storage. My personal opinion is dont waste your money on specialty fuels unless you are running a piece of equipment that needs it because you are just wasting your money.
EXCESSIVE FORCE
New member
I've got about 10 gallons of Sunoco 114 left over that i paid $11.00/gallon for if anyone needs some for cutting firewood...LOL
Which fuel treatment do you recommend?
Ohio Cat A few ones that I would recommend are the star-tron, gas medic if you can find it, opti-mizer, briggs and stratton makes a good one that only uses 1/2 ounce per 2 1/2 gallons so don't need alot of it, ones i would shy away from, stabil and seafoam.
maddog, as i had stated above about 60 percent of the repairs that walk through my shop door are fuel related and are usually a result of improper fuel storage, especially through the warm months of the year, winter degration of fuel is much slower than say the months when it is hot and the humidity is high, on a day when it is hot and humid take a shallow bread pan pour a little gas in it and set it out and within minutes it looks like a science experiment going on. Wether you are mechanically inclined or not if i took out 10 carbs to show you and one was stored with "sta" brand you would be able to pick that one out more often than not,seems to form crystals that attach themselves to the metal body especially in carburetors. Years ago we used to call seafoam "mechanic in a can" and most manufacturers (atleast in small engine industry) recommended using it, not true anymore and it is my understanding that it now mostly consists of naptha which is a solvent and will wash away lubricity and can be damaging to injection systems. The other thing alot of people are unaware of is when you add heet to alcohol fuels if you are using the yellow bottle you are only adding to the problem, you should be using iso heet, it still amazes me that they even sell the yellow bottle especially in counties that have alcohol fuels.
another misconception is that octane equals performance, octane is a fuels resistance to spontaneously combust, most high performance engines tend to be higher compression, higher rpm and these engines require it. putting it in engines that do not require it, telling yourself that it starts better, performs better, makes more horsepower is all a mindset. not putting it however in an engine that does require it will depending on the setup will quickly or overtime damage the engine, you will get the "death rattle" which comes from the fuel spontaneously combusting under compression before the spark ignition takes place.
Thanks for the info. The way my work schedule is looking combined with the weather I'm starting to think about summerization!