OK, this could get winded!.. I have a 2000 Mach Z 800 Triple and it has a 03 Rev SC-10 -3 in it. It came with Fox Zero Pros mounted in the suspension also. The rear shock is a "reservior" type shock. I just got the shocks back from a rebuilder and put them in and went out Tues for the first ride. It seemed to ride great and didnt "bottom" at all. It was on freshed groomed trails. The next day we went out again and I noticed alot more "bottoming" with just spirited trail riding. I have my adjustment blocks set at stiffest and I am 5'5" and 175lbs. It is a heavy sled being a triple but it shouldnt be bottoming like it is. I did try to turn the adjustment knob for compression on the reservoir but couldnt turn it by hand? Is a pliers needed to turn those normally?? Also the rebuilder put in Amsoil Shock Therapy Light #5 fluid. Is a stiffer fluid needed?? Can i change out the fluid myself or does it need to go for service again?? I have the shock at the front of the track stiffened up ok so that the sled turns to my liking but there is adjustment for stiffening left yet. Any help in leading me to get this stiffened up is appreciated!! Also, do those coil wound springs mounted in the susp up in the rear "sack out" over time and need replacing??
Rear Suspension Bottoming...
- Thread starter danzo
- Start date
techsledder
Member
Sounds like you should go back to that builder and ask him/her, “What the hail?”…
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If that doesn’t work, I have heard that Fett Brothers in MN are decent. Their prices for rebuilds seem fair. May help to get a second opinion.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>If that doesn’t work, I have heard that Fett Brothers in MN are decent. Their prices for rebuilds seem fair. May help to get a second opinion.
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Check the pre-load and sag of your sled. Pull up on the back bumper, measure the distance, let it down under its own weight (no rider) should drop about 1 -1 1/2". Now measure with you on it. should drop about 3" if it goes a lot more, turn up the pre-load (coil spring adjusters). You should bottom lightly on the bigger hits, that means your using all the suspension. If it never bottoms, your too stiff. If it bottoms too easy, and the springs are set to the full pre-load position, your shocks need to be re-valved differently.
At your height and weight, I would think the lightest or second preload position should be fine. Sound like you may be blowing through the shock stroke too fast, if it bottoms easily.
Need more mid stroke valving or stiffer compression. If the knob on the shock res. is knurled to be gripped by fingers, than no, dont use a pliers. It may be all the way to one end of adjustment, see if it moves the other way at all. You shoud be in the middle part of the adjustment range, ie. if there are 24 "clicks" then you want to be at about 12-14 out from "soft"
At your height and weight, I would think the lightest or second preload position should be fine. Sound like you may be blowing through the shock stroke too fast, if it bottoms easily.
Need more mid stroke valving or stiffer compression. If the knob on the shock res. is knurled to be gripped by fingers, than no, dont use a pliers. It may be all the way to one end of adjustment, see if it moves the other way at all. You shoud be in the middle part of the adjustment range, ie. if there are 24 "clicks" then you want to be at about 12-14 out from "soft"
Ok, the rebuilder got back to me also. It turns out that he ships the shock back with the compression adjuster set at all the way soft. I am guessing that this will solve my problem but one more concern i have is the mounting of the shock end in its farthest rear mount. (way up in back). On the sc10-3 the mount is elongated. I think the shock mounts at the low point in that elongation..correct? He said that on Cats and Pols the lower end of the shock must have the arm it mounts to above the pivot point of the linkage, not below, or it will be very soft and the base of the shock may rub on the track. I am not 100% sure that my shock is mounted down in that low point where i think it was mounted?? Can anyone tell me where that should be sitting in that mount?? Low in front on the linkage arm or up and back on the linkage arm?? Thanks for the help guys!!
Dan
Dan
This Fox shock sucks!! Had the sled out today with the compression adjuster turned all the way to hard. It still is bottoming out way to easily. The bumps i was bottoming on my friend wasnt. He has a 07 Mach Z 1000. The trails were kinda rough today but that still is not a excuse why its so soft!! I guess the only thing left is to just get a different shock. Last season the the shock failed and then proceeded to gouge up the track with the bolt that mounts the reservior line to the shock. Im wondering if i just put a stock BRP shock back in it it will solve my problem?? I checked what the "coil springs" in the rear suspension arm cost and they arent cheap either at 45 each. Mmmm.. maybe I'm just to hard of a rider??
Having Skidoo's and Polaris sleds over the years they put in light cheap springs so order the heavy springs for front and rear then you will have the best ride of your life then you soften your shocks up and it will save you from rebuilding your shocks every year. I have learned over the last 24 years of sledding it didn't mader what brand they put in light springs for 100lb people that will not take bumps fast and even my walker evan shocks can't take it until I put in heavy springs in the rear and even the front, even for you soft or meduim setting on the back for your springs and your sled will even have a better hole shot other wise you also lose hp your sled bottoms out.
I weigh 220 my friends weigh 180 to 300lbs, this has been the fix for everone what we have found!
If then you have problems it is your shocks are bad?
I weigh 220 my friends weigh 180 to 300lbs, this has been the fix for everone what we have found!
If then you have problems it is your shocks are bad?
In the back Fox Zero shocks are good, rydefx, and then walker evans clicker shocks they have 2 inches more travel than the other 2 brands and are the best! I have had all 3 in the last 3 years, #1 walker evans #2 fox Zero but only last 1 year then rebuild, #3 rydefx 2 years then rebuild. In the front I like walker evans or rydefx, fox never hold up for me I drive fast they can't handle the bumps they fail air shocks don't hold either. But every year something new to try, I will never buy fox shocks they don't last. You can buy walker evan shocks pay a little more but not have to rebuild all the time, also your back will thank you.