My wife's 600 has developed a small coolant leak where the PTO side cylinder and head meet. The top end was rebuilt last January by the dealer after an exhaust valve broke and took out the mag side piston. When I pulled it out this fall I noticed the overflow tank was low and during warm-up I found the leak. I called the dealer and they were pretty non-committal on covering this repair 10 months later so I'm going to replace the o-rings myself.
I have purchased all the o-rings for the top-end - cover plate, 1 for each spark plug hole and two each for the top of each cylinder.
It looks pretty simple from the diagram - drain coolant, remove thermostat housing, pull 12 bolts, and top plate and domes should come off. Remove old o-rings (hopefully find bad o-ring or reason for leak).
Is it really just as straightforward to replace the o-rings and bolt it back up? I know the six bolts per cylinder need to be torqued to 20-22 ft lbs and done in a criss-cross pattern. I also know I need to bleed the cooling system by raising the front of the sled and keep adding anti-freeze at idle until it comes out the bleeder screw by the thermostat housing.
Are there other tricks or tips? Common pitfalls? I did not find any evidence of people using any kind of sealer with the o-rings, maybe a bit of oil to make them pliable but nothing else. I'll use a bit of red loctite on the bolts, and will use a torque wrench to tighten.
If there are other things I need to be aware of I would appreciate the input - Thanks!
I have purchased all the o-rings for the top-end - cover plate, 1 for each spark plug hole and two each for the top of each cylinder.
It looks pretty simple from the diagram - drain coolant, remove thermostat housing, pull 12 bolts, and top plate and domes should come off. Remove old o-rings (hopefully find bad o-ring or reason for leak).
Is it really just as straightforward to replace the o-rings and bolt it back up? I know the six bolts per cylinder need to be torqued to 20-22 ft lbs and done in a criss-cross pattern. I also know I need to bleed the cooling system by raising the front of the sled and keep adding anti-freeze at idle until it comes out the bleeder screw by the thermostat housing.
Are there other tricks or tips? Common pitfalls? I did not find any evidence of people using any kind of sealer with the o-rings, maybe a bit of oil to make them pliable but nothing else. I'll use a bit of red loctite on the bolts, and will use a torque wrench to tighten.
If there are other things I need to be aware of I would appreciate the input - Thanks!