Revving VS. Running it Up for Storage

snoluver1

Active member
hey, don't bug out now, we're just getting to the good stuff. Are you saying that a 15 min run in 70 degree temp will not sufficiently warm the engine up to normal operating temp? With a cooling system dependent upon snow to keep it cool, how can running it not allow it to warm up thoroughly. I believe I can run my engine till it blows if it doesn't have a safety. Heat isheat and if the enging is producing heat than that heat will dissipate through all metal surfaces given enough time.

So bottom line to you is that it will not come up to temp unless underload, just asking?

Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. It is not that the coolant temp will not come up to normal, it is that the exhaust/combustion temp will not come up to normal without a load. If you really need to prove it to yourself Lenny, the answer is simple. Install a set of egt's on your sled. Run it on the stand with no load, up to normal operating temp as viewed on your coolant temp gauge. Note what the exhaust temp reads at that coolant temp. Next, take the sled out and run it under load. Bring the coolant temp up to the same value as you did on the stand. Note the exhaust temp with the engine under load. Get back to us with the results and let us know the difference between the two readings.
 
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lenny

Guest
Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. It is not that the coolant temp will not come up to normal, it is that the exhaust/combustion temp will not come up to normal without a load. If you really need to prove it to yourself Lenny, the answer is simple. Install a set of egt's on your sled. Run it on the stand with no load, up to normal operating temp as viewed on your coolant temp gauge. Note what the exhaust temp reads at that coolant temp. Next, take the sled out and run it under load. Bring the coolant temp up to the same value as you did on the stand. Note the exhaust temp with the engine under load. Get back to us with the results and let us know the difference between the two readings.

Just so happens I did go out and run sled and observe conditions cause I am a competitive mug. Sled 83 degrees at start, at 6 mins in sled was reading 123. At 11 mins in sled water temp was 167 and that was enough heat for me. At 2 mins I could start to feel heat on stock can, and heat exchanger was a tad warmer. At 6 mins in exhaust can was warm to the touch and heat exchanges much warmer. At 11 mins in heat exchanges hot to touch and could not hold hand, can slightly cooler and could barely keep hand on extended. I find it hard to believe I didn't dry out the pipes in the 11 mins I ran it. Now you did teach me something. I expected the can to be much hotter and I expected the heat exchangers to be cooler than the can and I was wrong but they were hot. The head warmed the quickest, the cylinder took a few mins and the case was hotter than the can in the end. I am giving you somewhat vague finding but I believe they do indicate that moisture would not survive the heat observed.

Last question I asked you was this: So bottom line to you is that it will not come up to temp unless underload, just asking?

Now, were you referring to the engine and can or just can?

I don't argue your theory at all concerning EGT gauge. It is a fact the exhaust temp will not be the same as under load but the question is am I producing enough heat to remove moisture for all parts? I believe so and believe I confirmed it after just observing what I observed. Could I spill water on the can and watch it boil off, no way, not even close,,,,,, and cooler than I expected but hot still. I mean I could be wrong now you got me thinking and if I am I will change my practices. Do you think motor parts are similar as the can, If so, which ones?
 
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snoluver1

Active member
h2o is a by product of the combustion process. If there is not enough heat in the pipe and crankcase to instantly vaporize and expel the water vapor, it will condense on internal engine parts as they cool.

The end.
 

snoluver1

Active member
I completely made that up, but it sounds good and I have neither the time or energy to continue this argument. I just know I'm right! Lol!!!
 
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lenny

Guest
h2o is a by product of the combustion process. If there is not enough heat in the pipe and crankcase to instantly vaporize and expel the water vapor, it will condense on internal engine parts as they cool.

The end.

hmmm, maybe you are right, it's starting to make sense and you know I am a bit stubborn. I appreciate your info and may have to reconsider. I have been searching the web for info and not seeing it. Do you know whre I can find it

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I completely made that up, but it sounds good and I have neither the time or energy to continue this argument. I just know I'm right! Lol!!!

lol,,,damn,, that was good but you could be onto something. I think we are somewhat on the same page but the difference is to how much heat and can I get the case and exhaust hot enough before overheating other parts. I guess I really cannot say with any certainty.

Maybe I need to pull the can off when cold and inspect, again when I think it's hot. Hey bud, not trying to arguee with you, seriously trying to make sure I am not wrecking motor
 
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