Roofing in Da UP

[scott_b]

Our house on Lake Gogebic is going to need a new roof soon. The existing roof is steel over, what was at the time, a decent shingled roof. The house was built in the late 70's with the steel being added in the late 80's or early 90's. The roof is a shallow pitch with a chimney coming up from an outside wall creating a dam of sorts during thaws.

Lenny helped me out a few years ago by pulling up some of the steel and patching a leak we had. The tell tale signs (stains on the ceiling) of the spring thaw are few and far between, but I would rather replace the roof proactively before we get any real damage. In the environment of the UP am I better off going with a steel or singled roof? How much ice and water shield do I need? The slope of our roof is such that snow will not slide no matter the roofing type. Cost is a significant consideration.

 

[POLARISDAN]

r u doing it urself?

 

[scott_b]

Polarisdan: No, not doing it myself. Just want some guidance from people more familiar with correct construction for the area before I start talking to contractors.

 

[chunk06]

Take some pics next time you're there. Sounds like your chimney could possibly need a "cricket" built next time around? Also try to figure out the "pitch" of the roof. It's tough to give answers with no pics or info.

 

[snobuilder]

OK....here is a clue...On a low slope roof I would do a complete tear off, correct any water flow issues like around a chimney, skin entire roof over with osb if boards/plywood looks questionable and install asphalt shingles.
On a 3 and 12 pitch or above, ice and water at least the bottom row and around the chimney, dormers, valleys, skylites etc.
Don't chince out on the ice and water. use Grace or GAF Storm guard.
$400.00 +/square but can vary greatly.

On a side note, some homes built in the 70's with conventionally framed cathedral ceilings (rafters) were not insulated correctly (no air gap/baffles) and the plywood turned to crap even without a water leak.

 

[scott_b]

That is helpful, thanks. I think the roof is either 3 or 4 12, picture attached. Will shingles hold up as well as steel? I assume I will have to be more careful shoveling the roof as not to damage the shingles?

 

[Tracker]

dis

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Metal-S...teel-Roof-Panel-in-Charcoal-2313417/204255071

 

[uncle_ed]

Hey Scott
That seems premature to have to replace a steel roof already. I would think that thing should have been good for 50+ years. Is there something else causing a leak like popped nails or seam issues etc? Do you have proper eave venting? Steel should last 2 to 3 times longer than asphalt with comparative costs. What is the overall condition of the steel?

 

[Cirrus_Driver]

For the Western UP, I wouldn't even consider doing anything but a metal roof. You have no pitch there at all, at least not sufficient for that area.
Snow won't move on it's own, and evaporation leaves mold behind to the extent you have tree's/shade.
When I redo my roof in Vilas, it will get a metal roof for sure, and I have a lot more pitch than you have.

 

[slimcake]

Hey Scott
That seems premature to have to replace a steel roof already. I would think that thing should have been good for 50+ years. Is there something else causing a leak like popped nails or seam issues etc? Do you have proper eave venting? Steel should last 2 to 3 times longer than asphalt with comparative costs. What is the overall condition of the steel?

Ya a steel roof should be a lifetime roof. I agree that you shouldn't need to replace the roof. Just fix the problems!

 

[snobuilder]

Am I seeing solar panels?

 

[mezz]

Looks like a 3/12 pitch to me. I have to agree with some of the previous statements regarding keeping the steel & fix the issues that exist. If you have water stains on the ceiling from previous leak, seal the stained area with shellac, or varnish, prime & paint, the stain won't bleed through. If I were to consider replacing it, I would go with Architectural shingles, merely for the fact that 3/12 or 4/12 are not enough of a pitch to get steel to shed the snow load without manual help. Imo, you have a good roof right now.-Mezz

 

[durphee]

We had water stains in our cabin and did a little more research and found that the venting in the attic area wasn't sufficient. During the fall condensation would build up and eventually ice over. In the Spring obviously it would all melt. It appeared that the roof was bad, it wasn't. We added a ridgeline vent and corrected some other minor issues and all is good.

 

[boaski]

That roof you have there looks like the type with exposed fasteners did they strip the roof with 1x4 or 2x4 when they installed it or just screw thru the shingles into the decking. If just thru the shingles I would start over the screws are always going to back out,I would use standing seam no exposed fasteners or shingles with ice and water under layment actually they are using that underlayment under the metal roof also but it can get expensive .

 

[yamadooed]

If you go with shingles make sure they 6 nail em instead of 4... I've had a few pull out from the installer not reading whats written from the mfg. I've seen both metal and shingles leak mostly in the valleys or on eaves where the ice dams are forming... For your 4/12 I'd stick with a metal roof just for easier shovel'n or rake'n. Good luck finding a contractor that calls you back or shows up as thats one of the hardest things in that location...

 

[Tracker]

go up and see if the screws thru the metal are exposed....I would use some QUAD see pic...its super tough and lasts long...spooge some around each screw with finger to make a good mound around screw...since maybe rubber grommet wore out underneath screw heads...quad 100 percent silicon...then I got this for my sled gear...its nano stuff...I would try on roof before snow season begins

 

[chunk06]

could be the chimney itself or the flashing for the chimney. I see more done wrong then right. I have seen chimneys at that age that already need extensive repair or rebuilding

 

[POLARISDAN]

That is helpful, thanks. I think the roof is either 3 or 4 12, picture attached. Will shingles hold up as well as steel? I assume I will have to be more careful shoveling the roof as not to damage the shingles?
View attachment 58730 View attachment 58731

looks like a 4/12..shoot a pix of that chimney from the roof and ill be able to see whats wrong..sb is wrong on i/w price..even gaf is abot 60$ for 1.5 sq..trackers suggestions about the grommets is accurate..but replace the screws if they looked worn..screws are supposed to be replaced every 5 years..but nobody does,,DO NOT silicone them..because if u have to replace this roof..your cost to remove the screws will skyrocket..

you should not be leaking from the field because of the shingle roof underneath..you will be leaking from a penetration somewhere..and as durphee said..is your venting correct to prevent ice dams..1/150th is normal code..google venting code for explanation..

if this roof is only 20-30 years old,,it does not need replacing..just proper fixing of most likely incorrect installation..we see all kinds of crap when we tear off roofs..u wouldnt believe the stuff people do

 

[scott_b]

Thanks guys, that is encouraging. The roof has no ice dams, there is a continuous sofit and ridge vent. The ceiling in the living area is vaulted and must be well insulated, water only drips from the roof over the house at about the same time it drips from the unheated garage roof. The steel is laid directly on the old shingles, no purloins. I will get a picture of the fireplace from the roof when I am up next.

 

[Tracker]

if you put a mound of quad silicon on top of each screw it seals it for 30 years plus...and to get it off easily....you take a razor blade and wd-40 and spray round it and cut around each screw a tad....not cutting really but scrapping around it flush with roof...then grab with pliers....comes right off in a mound too...its an easy cheap fix that will last for years and years...until you decide to do the entire roof right or sell

PS...I live in a very rough area and I had to seal bullet holes and hypodermic needle holes in the roof....shingles were new so replacing every year is a no....filled em all with quad....I do every year....hold really good and no leaks...been going on for over 20 years now...and now I am aboot due for a new roof again....saved a TON o MONAY...FYI