Sandblasting Media?

jr37

Well-known member
What do you use for a sandblasting media? Is there a less expensive alternative? I have a hard time spending $40 for something that is just going to end up in the gravel.
 

xcr440

Well-known member
Re-use! Set up in a place that you can collect that media, sweep it up, screen it and re-use it. My Dad has a nice homemade blasting box, that collects about 90% of it, but when he does the "outside" work, he still sweeps it up and re-uses it at least 5 or 6 times before it doesn't work so well.

As for purchasing new, not sure where or what would be cheaper.
 

xyooper

New member
unless you need a special kind of media, fine silica sand is what i use. i get it at the lumber yard for around $8 for an #80 bag. wear a good respirator though, not good on the lungs . you can reuse it but it gets awful dusty
 

jr37

Well-known member
unless you need a special kind of media, fine silica sand is what i use. i get it at the lumber yard for around $8 for an #80 bag. wear a good respirator though, not good on the lungs . you can reuse it but it gets awful dusty

I was using silica sand, but it must not be fine enough. It kept plugging up in the hose or gun, but it sure did a good job.
 

jr37

Well-known member
Menards has the silica sand, but I bought the Black Blast instead. Less than $7 for 50 lbs. and no health issues like the silica.
 

mjkaliszak

New member
Some psycho babble from when I had a job.....

Try Trinity bead, google them they are out of MI. They manufacture many different kinds of silica. Some mixes are more silica, some have Aluminum oxide mixed in at various percentages. The media size also comes into play along with the mix which produces a different finish on the steel. Some are more shiny & some dull, the TB# changes the " gloss" level or finish of the steel which when molding polymers produces a specific finish. For example your dash in your car has a textured surface with a low gloss level. It helps reduce windshield glare. Most interior trim co's nowadays will paint the interior components to manufacture a consistant quality looking part instead of relying on achieveing it from the mold.

I would go to the beach , fill some buckets with sand, pull the screen off 1 on the windows, screen it for particle size & blast away. that is if you are just removing rust or corrosion.
 

eao

Active member
I was using silica sand, but it must not be fine enough. It kept plugging up in the hose or gun, but it sure did a good job.

Moisture in the compressed air will cause clogging...you need to filter out moisture before the air gets to the sand.
 

xcr440

Well-known member
Moisture in the compressed air will cause clogging...you need to filter out moisture before the air gets to the sand.

Those in-line or tank mounted moisture bubbles that collect the water from the air work great, I honestly don't know their technical name......
 

borderstaff

New member
rp7x is right. If you use a line filter to eliminate moisture it should be 20-30 feet at least from the compressor, that gives that air some time to cool down to ambient temperature and separate the moisture from itself before going through a filter that collects the rest of the water.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
nothing mounted on the tank will work

rp7x is right. If you use a line filter to eliminate moisture it should be 20-30 feet at least from the compressor, that gives that air some time to cool down to ambient temperature and separate the moisture from itself before going through a filter that collects the rest of the water.

I tend to catch a lot of moisture in mine...?
 

rp7x

Well-known member
h20

if you run your comp enuf to get your line warm it will cause moisture in the hose laying on the floor
 

doomsman

New member
I watch what nozzle is in the gun, most compressor
setups don't deliver the cfm they claim and if you have too large
a nozzle they don't pull well.
 
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