Ski Doo XP plastic replacement

[Donzi Classic]

I have a Summit XP 2011 that I want to replace all the front end body pieces. The bottom or belly,the bumper, and vented piece are all tweeked from a bump it took last year. All the pieces are just off enough so the that the hood is a pain in the a.. to catch all the slide in mounting points. The hood itself is fine. How involved is it to r & r all the plastic. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

 

[doospunk]

Not to scare you, but have you looked at the the NUN, frames to inspect for tweaks/cracks there? How do the shocks look as they sit between the a-arms? Is there equal distance on the front and back side of both of them? Another way to check is to butt your ski tips up to a wall and see if one is set back further than the other. A bit of offset on thie skis is common, (I think I read somewhere about an inch or so), but if it's more significant, it may point to something else. THe only reason I bring this up is if any of these components are tweaked, it may very well have been the cause of the plastics tweeking.

If it ends up just being the plastic - No big deal. Look at the peices closely. Most are held by rivets or a star screw. Fairly simple to remove and add.

 

[Donzi Classic]

I have inspected the NUN, frames and can not find any damage. The shocks were centered in between the a arms. I have them out now so I can get at the rivets that need to be drilled out to remove the bottom pan. The ski tips look to be pretty even. The lower a arm on the right side bumped into something and has a very small bend in it. I put a straight edge on it and it is only "in'' 1/4 of an inch. Thats all of it as far as the a arms go. I do not plan to replace the a arm unless the front end allignment can't be adjusted to straight. I suspect what happened was somebody bumped into a small tree and it put the bend in the lower a arm and a small dent in the right corner of the bumper. The bumper bracket must have been what caused the plastic to tweek. My other thought is the sled may have been moved with the older style shop dolly that is ok for trailing arm front ends but not a arms, if it fell of the dolly the pad may have hit the plastic. I hope to have the pan off tonight and a new one back on as soon as I get it from dealer. Thanks for commenting.

 

[mjkaliszak]

I hope the damage is insignificant. You will find out as you remove the pieces. From my experience what happens is , as you remove parts the stress & energy stored from the event that dented your a-arm & tweaked your plastics will be released. The plastic nose peice & front bumper are just bolts & rivets. I seem to feel filled with " rhetoric " this morning so... if I may ? ....I will comment ! A good place to buy black head rivets is ( Bryke.com ) they are circle track racers and sell them cheap .... like you can buy 7 or 8 from BRP for what they will sell you 100 for. The XP chassis is very unforgiving... If you have a bend in your a-arm you need to look further. Try to pull it off and see if you can remove from the support brace in the ( S or E module ). You also need to look down along the sides of the E module, specifically the side of the sled that was hit. If further damage is present , it will most likely show up there as a bend or buckle. Just some constructive feedback as to where to look for damage with the XP chassis. I ended up replacing my S & E modules along with front bumper & nose piece. Mine took a "whollap" which in the beginning I had hoped was just front bumper damage & plastic panel damage but .... as soon as the parts came off and the motor was loosened from the mounts everything went to ****. In the end it was a big project but my clutches ran cooler and were better aligned than from ther factory. The stavex rivets are a PITA.
Good Luck

 

[Donzi Classic]

Ok, help me out here. the S & E module......what are they and where are they located? I have the nose and bumper off it now. I have looked very close at the mounting point in the center of the sled that the a arm attaches to. I can not see anything wrong with it. I have inspected all the aluminum of the chassis that I can see and can't find any broken welds, cracks or any denting. All of the motor mounts looked ok but I will double check them. I don't the sled took a very hard hit. Unfortunatly for me a bit of a lesson about buying on E Bay. This all started because I noticed that the hood didn't fit nice. I bought the sled at a very fair price so at this point I'm not to worked up about it. It's my first XP so I'm getting aquainted with it quickly.

 

[mjkaliszak]

The S & E modules are the 2 main components of the front of the sled or front of the bulkhead.The E module attaches to the front heat exchanger in the tunnel and has a weird shape with many bends and the S module attaches to that. IF you look up or google any BRP OEM part supplier and pull up their microfiche ( part diagram ) it should clarify these 2 components. I believe the a-arms attach is on a bracket in the s module. Skidoo might be calling these parts something else now But I believe if you hunt around in the parts diagram they will show up. Here is a link E module on top & S module on bottom of left hand side of diagram. I just picked a model. Normally what happens is the a-arm Bracket will distort ( try to remove the arms ) best way to tell . OR the cast ears on the side of the e module buckle. Sometimes a kink or buckle will show up in the belly pan. Hope this link works.In my picture I'm pointing to the bottom pan of the e-mod the s module is in front of that ( before it in the front of the sled working back ). you can see the buckle in mine.

http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/pag...EC,_2011/09-_Frame_and_Components/66048/66072

 

[mjkaliszak]

Just a second suggestion. If you can replace your parts and check your clutch alignment and it is good ??? By all means go that route. If there is tweaking that happened, it will show up as you remove components. What happened to my is .... I had argued with my dealer over the leaking hose clamp issue ( predominant in 09 ) . Over the next year and 1/2 I happened to have to pull the " eject cord " and bail out at a unsafe speed. This smashed the bumper & cracked a few things . I replaced the apparent damage and thought I was good. Finally I went to a second dealer over the leaking hose clamp issue and they recieved approval to fix it and replace all the hose clamps. THUS the beginning of my problems. When they did this the motor mounts had to be looseded to get to some of the hose clamps and upon the 2nd dealer finishing the job my clutch alignment was out of spec. The 2nd dealer claimed it was within the limit but as soon as I returned to the man cave with the sled I checked it and found it to be unacceptable for my standards. What happened it the stress stored from the hit started to relieve itself when the motor mounts were loosened. When I went to correct the problem ( clutch alignment )it became apparent as I pulled parts off that the S & E ,mods were damaged.

With all that being said, you may be OK or you may be better off just replacing damaged components and leaving the S & E mods alone. Even if they are buckled. By now there have to be alot of damaged XP's out there. The task is a formidable one. A friend of mine went to the bronson auction last year, wouldn't listen to my advise and wait for my consul. He bought a X model, with few miles for 6500. A screaming deal one might think ??? I quickly found the damaged e-module. Some times a deal is not a deal. He had the crack in the brace welded at his shop and has not had a problem with it. That will be until he has a mishap and has to take it apart. I also picked up on how guy's were just selling the bent & damaged e-mods for cheap instead of fixing them correctly. That was the rumor-mill stuff back in 2010. I ended up replacing mine, just because I spent 15k or more modding it out and wanted to sell it some day. I do not believe in stiffing the next guy and taking their money . Not all people are that way.

So the best way to tell if things are tweaked ( from the point your at IMO... ) is to remove the a-arms from the bracket in the s-module. There are bushings & shims that come apart, if one comes out tight ??? and your clutch alignment is good ??? you can just "tune it" like dust the bushing down a little and make things work. OR you may not have any problems ??? BUT ...IMO is to pull the a arms.

I will PM you my phone #. I will advise if needed. I do want to mention that their are some great threads on Doo Talk for replacing these parts if need be. AND for the record , I had asked many questions , made some friends, and recieved help from a few DT'ers before I under took the project.

One more note for the record, If you start replacing XP components... take some pics to refer back to later for re-assembly. They will be invaluable for figuring out where hoses, wires & harnesses should be.

mj..... out