I pulled the classic mistake of when replacing the secondary clutch on the jackshaft, overtighting the bolt. It broke just inside the end of the shaft. How tough is going to be to drill out and use an easy out to get the old bolt removed? Should I heat up the shaft? Any tips or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I've been doing this too long to make that type of rookie mistake!
Snapped bolt in secondary clutch
- Thread starter Snirtdawg
- Start date
skeeter2010
Member
I would take a small center punch and try to walk it out backwards it may not be that tight if the threads are not damaged
mjkaliszak
New member
Don't feel too bad, I pulled that 1 before. Between the shop I use & me taking the clutches on & off several times we streched the bolt and it snapped on me. I wouldn't heat the splines , most important is your procedure. Smooth out the broke bolt end if you can, use a center punch and try to center punch it on " center ". Use a " center drill or pilot drill 1st then open up to your E-Z out drill size. The stud might spin to the bottom of the hole, that's OK at least you know it will come out. Use a good drill, for bolt removal I like cobalt drills ( for everything actually ). You will generate enough heat from the drilling process . It is important to drill on center so you don't cross over into the minor & major thread diameters then stuff the E-Z out in there and rip things up in the process. To start you might want to try an air gun and a scriber or small ***** punch to see if it moves or you can back it out. OR feel free to use a left handed drill bit if you have 1. 1 more thought from experience, worst thing you can do is get your hands on a carbide drill bit and then unfortunately have that break in the stud, or snap off a " cheap " E-Z out off in the hole. The worst senario would be the carbide drill and the 2nd worst is the hardened cheap e-x out. If you run into problems post back and I can give some more input, below is a picture of the " center drill " , it actually called a drill & countersink .
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Left handed drill bit works great.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html
http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html
arctic cat
New member
indy is talking about my sled i first drilled into the bolt with a drill bit then progressivly got bigger with the ez-outs and it cam right out
Your best bet is the left handed bits, get cobalt if you can find them. Snap-off, (I mean Snap-on) had them, not sure if they still do though. The investment in the cobalt L-hand will pay for itself in time. Works for allen-head, phillips, and stripped torx too(for all the Cat riders and those nasty belly pan screws)
Slow rotation and pressure, that usually works the best ... Jim
Slow rotation and pressure, that usually works the best ... Jim
On a related note... if you have a little bit of the original bolt sticking out, like if the head snapped off trying to get it out, welding a larger nut to the end will 1. give you something to grab and 2. get some heat into the bolt threads. Use this all the time on rusted broken or rounded off bolts and larger screws.
X2, on welding the nut on, Works excellent!
Well I'm glad you got it out with no problems, I did the same thing. Sept I had a little snow in the yard, put the belt back on eased it out of the garage and cracked the throttle once and spun the secondary off. The belt keep's it from coming completely off the shaft. Only problem is getting it back to the heated garage. 4 wheeler comes in handy.
bigmacattak
New member
Torque Wrench
Good to hear you got that out.
I was pretty surprised that the torque spec on that bolt is only 15 ft/lbs, which does not seem like enough, so I can totally see snapping these if tightening by feel. Use a torque wrench. Set it to the spec and stop when it clicks. It is not a large bolt, so it does not need a ton of pressure to tighten.
Good to hear you got that out.
I was pretty surprised that the torque spec on that bolt is only 15 ft/lbs, which does not seem like enough, so I can totally see snapping these if tightening by feel. Use a torque wrench. Set it to the spec and stop when it clicks. It is not a large bolt, so it does not need a ton of pressure to tighten.