doo-sled, when you did yours, how far apart did you do the first row and on down? I was told to go three rows and start over. So do you go like 2-3 inches apart for the first row and just add one inch for the second and another inch for the third, then start over? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm nt real up on this stuff and I really appreciate all the info everyone has given me........
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Studs
- Thread starter eyewalls
- Start date
You can eye ball them but I would use a template. That way you maximize your scratch lines. Plus it will make it a lot faster.If studs and time are free then it is a very little investment. Do you have a stud drill?? Can do without but is a lot nicer to use one. Also after you put your hole in quickly go over it with a hand torch to burn the cords.
Eyewalls: My "V" patern repeats after 4 rows. I would start with the bottom portion of the "V" and then work outwards. My first row, the backers are almost touching (similar to a double backer) and then I moved outward (I do not know the exact measurements). Be careful not to place a stud too close to the outer portion of the "middle row" - I have been told that your track could tear over time. I agree with DAB102999 - I purchased a Track cutter for my drill and it worked great, however, I did not use a torch for the chords. You can buy a track cutting drill bit on DennisKirk.com
The more I read here the more I second whitedust. Need to find someone who has done this or look up a lot of different things on the net. It is more then just drillin and puttin in. Need to watch placement next to edge of track; avoid to placement where to many ride under boggies; make sure you don't get to tight (which is easy to do); make sure studs aren't to long; Are these new studs or used?? If used make sure to get new nuts or use some removable lock tight. I might have missed some things and don't get me wrong, it isn't hard. Just a few things you need to know before you start. I have been on and owned sleds since the 70's and the sled I have now is the first one in 20 years that isn't studded. I am a little worried about it and will see how things pan out. May have to get a different track if I don't like it and stud that one.
G
G
Guest
Unless you own a mountain sled studs are a safety thing. I wouldn't be without them. I don't even like riding with people that don't stud. You never know when they will be hitting you from behind when they can't stop.
I appreciate everyones input. I'll try and find someone that has done this before. I never realized all the technical things to look for and do with this. I will get it done and hopefully be riding as soon as the snow flies. Again, thanks to everyone that has helped me out!!!
Maybe search out stud grip or something like that. Seems that would be much easier for you & looks interesting & don't think it looks very difficult to do. Still need protectors. I started video but have no idea what lauguage he was speaking so jumped off but would exspect if I stayed on video would have been visual enough. Also saw in recent snomo mag.
Rock had it on here.
http://www.gripstuds.com./
http://www.gripstuds.com./
These studs I got for free. That's why I want to use them. So what I am asking is would they work even though the shoulder won't meet the backer and what is the purpose of the shoulder coming in contact with the backer. I believe they are long enough, so I'm not worried about that.
michaeladams
New member
i love fishtailing around icy corners.it'd be real bad if i had more than 4 inch carbides.i had an artic cat that was all studded and was more tired after riding that one than the one without studs.
The biggest problem you will have with the single ply studs is, they will either be too tight and squish the track too much, or you wont be able to tighten them up and they can tear out. I would try to sell them and get the right ones, you are asking for trouble with the wrong studs for your track.