Dealer installed required sea-level kit for UP riding. Question is 1 week a year I do ride out west. Will this sea-level set-up work fairly well even if not otimum or will my primary need to be overhauled twice each year for these trips once on the way out and once when I return. I wonder what they use in places like Alaska when in the same ride they can go from sea level to over 10K feet? I am new to the world of Ski Doo as I have formerly owed mostly Yamaha so an knowledgable insight is appreciated.
Summit 146" e-tec 800 sea level clutch kit
- Thread starter jasonv
- Start date
misty_pines
Member
I found a high altitude chart for Ski-Doos here: http://www.propoweronline.com/high_altitude_setup_charts.htm
For the sea-level kit, they most likely changed the spring, ramps and pins. You probably won't get you best performance if you ride in the mountains with the sea-level clutch set up. You can change the clutch clickers to modify the top rpm range for fine tuning which can help, but I recommend prior to riding in the mountains to put the high altitude spring, ramps and pins in.
I rode my Renegage Backcountry 800 e-tec in the mountains last year and made the high altitude clutch changes recommended in the chart and it performed fantastic.
For the sea-level kit, they most likely changed the spring, ramps and pins. You probably won't get you best performance if you ride in the mountains with the sea-level clutch set up. You can change the clutch clickers to modify the top rpm range for fine tuning which can help, but I recommend prior to riding in the mountains to put the high altitude spring, ramps and pins in.
I rode my Renegage Backcountry 800 e-tec in the mountains last year and made the high altitude clutch changes recommended in the chart and it performed fantastic.
It's really quite simple to change the weight out yourself with the proper tools, and would eliminate dealer costs for you. All you need is a clutch bolt puller, the o-ring button holders (3), and the high altitude pin weights. I put an aftermarket SLP pin kit in mine for ease of swapping. THere's plenty of step by step videos and pictures out there showing the process. dootalk.com is a great source of information for anything regarding the XP (or any doo's). Good luck.
At the very least, you will want lighter pin weights to bring peak RPM's remotely close to where they need to be. I would look into the process, and learn to make the changes on your own. If you just run what is in there at altitude, you will be less than satisfied with performance. You will already be down about 30% from your low altitude horsepower even with dialed clutching. Now combine that with a sled that wont rev past 7000 rpm's, and you will me making about 70 horsepower at altitude.
So you are saying just lighter weights but leave the sea level spring and ramps? This would make sense to me or even I was thinking swap the spring that came with the kit that was not used. It is mid length between stock set-up and sea level set-up but I am not sure if it is the same rate? It would be nice once the sled is broke in that a single change like this could accomodate both UP and out west jsut utilizing the full range of the clicker. I guess I will have to play around with this a bit after the sled is broke in to see if I can find the most aggressive combination for here that just keeps it off the rev limiter on setting 1 then perhaps at setting 6 it will not be that bad out there. That is what I am after jsut looking to see how to get there. Thanks!
The clickers are only good for + or - 100 r's per click. Your going to need to adjust the weights to get satisfactory performance. As I mentioned above, SLP makes a kit that allows for easy swap of the pins once the clutch is pulled. It's essentially two settings 1. High altitude 8k+ = run the pins hollow, 2. Midwest riding = largest pin.
Correct pin weight in addition to use of the clickers will get you the most optimal performance. If you want to take it a step further, you can look into the Shockwave adjustable Helix for the secondary, which allows for additional tuning. I'd recommend reaching out to Big John at sleadheadracing.net. He set mine up, and is well known in the western riding "doo" community.
Correct pin weight in addition to use of the clickers will get you the most optimal performance. If you want to take it a step further, you can look into the Shockwave adjustable Helix for the secondary, which allows for additional tuning. I'd recommend reaching out to Big John at sleadheadracing.net. He set mine up, and is well known in the western riding "doo" community.
I ride in Mn and out west and The only thing I change on my Ski-doos is the weight/pins. You can buy a pin kit from Straightline performance which have individual weights threaded into the pins. So it is very easy to change the weight of the pins. As someone else stated a clutch puller and 3 button holder tabs is all you need for tools. you remove the clutch, separate while inserting 3 button holder tabs, remove cotter key from each pin and thread out weigth or add weight with small allen wrench. 1/2 hour or less when you get use to it. note: you may need a clutch holder for removal and installation. Check Straightline Performance website he will have the tools and the adjustable weights.