sxr, srx, vmax, mtn max jackshaft bearings

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lenny

Guest
I have a bad bearing on the chain case side of the jack shaft, gonna do both bearings. I opened the case and have the chain off. Looks like a retaining clip on the bearing. I do have snap ring pliers. What is the most efficient way to do this job from here, keep in mind I do want to do both sides
 
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lenny

Guest
I did kinda start it this evening, I pulled the brake calliper off and started finding the bolts for the case itself. Is there a bolt on the bottom, doesnt appear like it but hard to see under there.

How about some more details?
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
lenny said:
I did kinda start it this evening, I pulled the brake calliper off and started finding the bolts for the case itself. Is there a bolt on the bottom, doesnt appear like it but hard to see under there.

How about some more details?
Click to expand...

buy a polaris :p sorry, i had to :D
 
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lenny

Guest
I'll have a cat sooner or later, I just gotta get this sled operating again. It didn't break down, just started hearing a grumble and better fix it before it gets out of control and expensive
 
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D.B. Cooper

Member
lenny said:
I did kinda start it this evening, I pulled the brake calliper off and started finding the bolts for the case itself. Is there a bolt on the bottom, doesnt appear like it but hard to see under there.

How about some more details?
Click to expand...

Lenny,

You gotta love it when you ask a serious question, and all you get is comedy...........................

Here's how I do it;

1) Remove the entire rear suspension assembly (4 bolts)

2) Remove chain-case cover, & gears

3) remove speedo side bearing cover (3 bolts)

4) slide the drive-shaft towards the speedo side until it drops down out of the chain-case, then remove from the sled

The speedo side bearing is pressed on, I use a pit-man arm puller to remove it, but a claw-type puller should work, or hammer if need be.

Press, or with a suitable size socket, block of wood, press, install the new bearing onto the drive-shaft, remember to have ONE 3-bolt bearing flange on first

While it's apart, I would replace the bearing(s) AND seal in the chain-case side as well.

Hope this helps
 
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lenny

Guest
hey Doug, I haven't yet. Had a funeral today and a basketball game tonight. Tomorrow I'll get at it. Did you guys get some snow again?
 
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lenny

Guest
kraven700 said:
Lenny,

You gotta love it when you ask a serious question, and all you get is comedy...........................

Here's how I do it;

1) Remove the entire rear suspension assembly (4 bolts)

2) Remove chain-case cover, & gears

3) remove speedo side bearing cover (3 bolts)

4) slide the drive-shaft towards the speedo side until it drops down out of the chain-case, then remove from the sled

The speedo side bearing is pressed on, I use a pit-man arm puller to remove it, but a claw-type puller should work, or hammer if need be.

Press, or with a suitable size socket, block of wood, press, install the new bearing onto the drive-shaft, remember to have ONE 3-bolt bearing flange on first

While it's apart, I would replace the bearing(s) AND seal in the chain-case side as well.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Now I'm in business, thanks a lot bud. ;)
 
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BREEZY

New member
I wish we didnt even get thr grass covered. Wish i was a weather man and could just look out the window and say its going to snow ha ha its snowing now but maybe 2 to 3 inches they say. We will see in the morning
 
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dmsrx

Member
You can get the chaincase off without pulling the skid but you may as well replace all the bearings. There are 6 bolts that hold the skid in on the proaction. Make sure you loosen and run all of them out most of the way before you take them all the way out because they have loctite on them from the factory. You may have to tighten them back up to get the other side out. Also don't take the bolts off the center shaft of the suspension one at a time, loosen one side up till it is almost out then take the other side out or it will bend the tunnel where the bolt goes thru. It will also help to loosen the bolts in the end of the transfer rods when you reinstall and loosen up the track adjusters. It's really pretty easy to do. Work on it with it on it's side, much easier just make sure you pinch the fuel tank vent so it doesn't leak gas.
 
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lenny

Guest
dmsrx said:
You can get the chaincase off without pulling the skid but you may as well replace all the bearings. There are 6 bolts that hold the skid in on the proaction. Make sure you loosen and run all of them out most of the way before you take them all the way out because they have loctite on them from the factory. You may have to tighten them back up to get the other side out. Also don't take the bolts off the center shaft of the suspension one at a time, loosen one side up till it is almost out then take the other side out or it will bend the tunnel where the bolt goes thru. It will also help to loosen the bolts in the end of the transfer rods when you reinstall and loosen up the track adjusters. It's really pretty easy to do. Work on it with it on it's side, much easier just make sure you pinch the fuel tank vent so it doesn't leak gas.
Click to expand...

yup, I got er done, I didn't drop the skid, didn't even loosen the tension as I was running my track real loose. I dropped down to a 19 tooth top gear. I had to run the adjuster most the way in, about 1/2 left. Maybe I should have gotten a shorter chain?
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
lenny said:
yup, I got er done, I didn't drop the skid, didn't even loosen the tension as I was running my track real loose. I dropped down to a 19 tooth top gear. I had to run the adjuster most the way in, about 1/2 left. Maybe I should have gotten a shorter chain?
Click to expand...

Watch your chain tension. It'll stretch as you keep running it. I dropped a tooth on the top gear and my chain kept getting looser ever couple hundred miles.
 
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