It only takes one broken pipe to ruin a weekend of riding not to mention the cabin! Just start the winterizing when you get up the day you leave. It is worth the time.
To Winterize a cabin or not...
- Thread starter saltyg
- Start date
It only takes one broken pipe to ruin a weekend of riding not to mention the cabin! Just start the winterizing when you get up the day you leave. It is worth the time.
I go up every other weekend and I blow out the lines every time I leave ,it is not worth it to take a chance .I have seen a few places that the pipes froze and burst and they all said they never had a problem before . Sometimes if it is just me going up I just turn the water on but I keep the lines closed to the cabin and the hot water heater that way I can just fill buckets for flushing the toilet and washing up. This way it only takes a couple of minuets to drain the pressure tank and your done. Also I put the anti freeze in the drains. I found that if I leave my heat on at 40 it will hardly run so I do keep the heat on.
When we go up in the winter we don't winterize. We just shut the pump off and then run the water out of the bladder tank, turn the water heater to pilot and the furnace to 48. We have a thermostat that you plug into the wall that we plug a lamp into that we sit on a window sill in the back with a red bulb. We set that one at 40 and if it kicks on it sends power to the lamp. Both the neighbors are full time residents and have keys. They have only had to check the place out a couple of times but only after the power goes out. We haven't had any problems yet.
But if I was out in the middle of nowhere and had no neighbors I would have to take the time and drain the lines and antifreeze the traps. Just for the what if's.
But if I was out in the middle of nowhere and had no neighbors I would have to take the time and drain the lines and antifreeze the traps. Just for the what if's.
snow_monkey
New member
If you have a gas water heater and power goes out that will be ok. I do the same as many. I drain out the house from a low spicket/thermostat at 45/ no antifreeze in traps or toilets. I have lost power for a max of 1 day and have not had any issues in 14 years. My neighbor on the other hand lost his electricity and furnace for an extended length of time and has an electric water heater. Water heater exloded and split from freezing/all toilets cracked and thrown onto front lawn/multiple burst pipes and water damage. I have a neighbor that will call if the outage looks to be lengthy.
I just drop the temp down to 48, turn off the well, turn off the water heater, and let the internet enabled thermostat txt my phone cell if the temp gets to 42. Then every once in a while, log into my DVR and check the cameras to make sure no one is peaking in the windows, or walking around the cabin. Works like a charm. If I notice I left a light on or something, simply call the neighbor and have them turn them off. Then before I leave to come back up, log into my thermostat, and turn the heat up to 68 so it's warm when I get there.
Thanks to everyone for the responses, I guess it's not that strange to winterize after every use. There will be more practice this weekend!
Regarding the 2+ hours - Most of the time its trying to get the water heater (30 gal) to drain. I will use a little help from the air compressors to push the water along sometimes. Before someone asks, when I have the misses and the girls along (aka the queen and princesses) there will be hot water available...thanks again.
snow_monkey
New member
Might as well throw this in here. Make sure all glass bottles, salad dressings, pop, mayo, anything that can explode will. I put all glass containers in the fridge, less mess when everything blows.
Winterized the first couple years, what a pain and had lines freeze anyway. Now I heat. Flip off breaker on wellpump, turn furnace to 55. Set ventless gas fireplace to 53, open doors on cabinets that have pipes behind them. I also have 2 electric heaters in bathrooms that will kick on about 45. Also have a system that calls my phone if temperature drops below 45, Paid off twice in the beginning, bad thermal coupler. Now the ventless and furnace with the electric heaters, haven't had to make a mad dash in 17 years.
By the way, with the ventless gas (99% efficient), the pilot helps to add humitity and that little flame (and I'm sure the main burner kicks in once in awhile), decrease my heating costs about $20 a month.
By the way, with the ventless gas (99% efficient), the pilot helps to add humitity and that little flame (and I'm sure the main burner kicks in once in awhile), decrease my heating costs about $20 a month.
Look under your sink, it should only be a P trap...should be just a U shape 1.25 inch pipe. You need about 2 or 3 ounces to fill half of it.
fishs_summit
New member
sounds like the big Pia is arriving and finding a problem? thats what were all trying to avoid.
Trick / Track
New member
I bought a place last August. I have a 40" crawl space and the water heater and pump and softner is located in the crawl.
I closed up all the outside vents and entrance and made a new one in the utility area. I had the block foundation foamed sprayed up around my band board onto the floor. I also moved all my traps into to crawl.
This has made a big difference in my heating bill, last time I was there it was blowing hard and around 8 degrees outside.
When I open up the cabin it was 52 degrees and my thermostate was set at 45 degrees i also have a thermostate with membering in it, 49 was the lowest.
Now my cabin is insulated but not that great it was done around 35 years ago.
I was told that the heat from the ground would help keep my cabin warm.
I do have a air compressor plumbed into my water lines, turn off main lines and turn off pump switch and turn on the air and let blow for few minutes add a little antifreeze in toliet and done, 8 minutes tops.
I figured a little work this fall would pay off in time, for the future.
It cost $825.00 for the foam insulation, but I figure it will save me a tank of propane this season.
I was heating before I foamed and was keeping record of the propane used.
Pat
I closed up all the outside vents and entrance and made a new one in the utility area. I had the block foundation foamed sprayed up around my band board onto the floor. I also moved all my traps into to crawl.
This has made a big difference in my heating bill, last time I was there it was blowing hard and around 8 degrees outside.
When I open up the cabin it was 52 degrees and my thermostate was set at 45 degrees i also have a thermostate with membering in it, 49 was the lowest.
Now my cabin is insulated but not that great it was done around 35 years ago.
I was told that the heat from the ground would help keep my cabin warm.
I do have a air compressor plumbed into my water lines, turn off main lines and turn off pump switch and turn on the air and let blow for few minutes add a little antifreeze in toliet and done, 8 minutes tops.
I figured a little work this fall would pay off in time, for the future.
It cost $825.00 for the foam insulation, but I figure it will save me a tank of propane this season.
I was heating before I foamed and was keeping record of the propane used.
Pat
I'm curious about this, can you please provide more detail and/or photos? Who does this type of work?
I too have an older cottage on a block foundation, built a false wall underneath where the H2O lines and drains are and provide a bit of heat. But the remainder of the crawl is not insulated and therefore the floors are extremely cold in the winter. Thinking something like this may help.
Thanks
Trick / Track
New member
jpsted,
The product is a closed cell foam, (not open cell) thickness is around 2" to 3".
It is sprayed at hi pressure around 1200 psi and starts as a liquid, so it gets into all the cracks and holes than it expands.
I had it come out of some of my cracks on the outside of the blocks.
Seals everything up with no air movement or drafts.
Most insulating companies are doing it now.
As for pictures I am 350 miles from my cabin now but go online and search for crawl space insulation or closed foam and you will fine it.
It reminds me of the spray foam that is used in boxes to keep things from moving, kind of a white tan color.
Pat
The product is a closed cell foam, (not open cell) thickness is around 2" to 3".
It is sprayed at hi pressure around 1200 psi and starts as a liquid, so it gets into all the cracks and holes than it expands.
I had it come out of some of my cracks on the outside of the blocks.
Seals everything up with no air movement or drafts.
Most insulating companies are doing it now.
As for pictures I am 350 miles from my cabin now but go online and search for crawl space insulation or closed foam and you will fine it.
It reminds me of the spray foam that is used in boxes to keep things from moving, kind of a white tan color.
Pat
Question to those using the ventless heaters. Are these the ones from the big box stores with the internal thermostat (usually numbered 1-10) How does that work and where do you set your thermostat to go on around 45 degrees. I am not a fan of those internal thermostats but if you say they work-- then I will try since the heaters are cheap.
I have been heating my cabin to about 50 degrees for about 10 years--I have had propane pilots go out and have barely avoided disaster. I installed backup baseboard heaters that have bailed me out---they are 220v and cheap and easy to install. I am still at risk with an extended power outage and the 3rd backup of a ventless heater sounds appealing if I can use the $160 big box versions. Not a fan of shutting down as then you have to shut down frig etc and ramp up time is too long. I spend about $80/month on heat for a 600 sq ft cabin using propane/electric but I have a slider going to another 600 sq foot addition that I do not heat unless I need the space when I am up there. That works pretty good and keeps my costs down but I have the space if I need it.
If I built again I would have an enclosed bathroom and kitchen and only heat that area---would be very efficient.
Thanks
I have been heating my cabin to about 50 degrees for about 10 years--I have had propane pilots go out and have barely avoided disaster. I installed backup baseboard heaters that have bailed me out---they are 220v and cheap and easy to install. I am still at risk with an extended power outage and the 3rd backup of a ventless heater sounds appealing if I can use the $160 big box versions. Not a fan of shutting down as then you have to shut down frig etc and ramp up time is too long. I spend about $80/month on heat for a 600 sq ft cabin using propane/electric but I have a slider going to another 600 sq foot addition that I do not heat unless I need the space when I am up there. That works pretty good and keeps my costs down but I have the space if I need it.
If I built again I would have an enclosed bathroom and kitchen and only heat that area---would be very efficient.
Thanks
trailshredder
Member
We just turn the hot water heater off, turn down the heat as low as it will go and shut off the breaker for the pump. This takes all of about 5 minutes....all is good.
anonomoose
New member
You are usin way too much juice....do a test, take a plastic bucket put a gallon of water in it (which is way more than in your toilet bowl & traps) and add a cup of antifreeze into it, and set it outside in the cold over night....it won't freeze up. It doesn't take that much stuff to protect it...since the idea is not to prevent freezing, but to prevent it from freezing solid and expanding like crazy..which breaks pipes and toilet, and traps.
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The 2 part foam is amazing stuff just have to follow directions and make sure the stuff is at 70 degrees or above before applying it. you can buy them on ebay or at you local insulation supplier, or gypsum supply stores as well they go for about 400.00 for a 400 sqft coverage. it comes in tanks that look like propane bottles.
lvr1000----thanks for the pics---nice stove! I would guess that the wall mount blue flame models might use the same thermostat. Interesting that 50 is as low as you can go---that is what I need to know as I bought a special thermostat for my propane wall furnace and it goes down to 50 degrees and that is where I set it--might have to crank that one up. Is that your only heat source and do you have condensation issues?