Gearing
Not sure why you'd want to do that. If your looking at running trails only I would not make a 3 tooth change. It will feel like a dog.
Team Lipske,
I've noticed from other threads that you've recently replaced this 800 motor with a custom rebuild by Indy Dan. If I understand correctly, you went with the block riser and the long rod kit. This should give you more torque.
From my physics days: Torque is defined as the force that tends to produce rotation or torsion... a measure of the effectiveness of such a force that consists of the product of the force and the perpendicular distance from the centerline of action of the force to the axis of rotation
The longer the stroke, the more offset the crankshaft pin has from the centerline of the crankshaft. This means the connecting rod can exert more leverage to turn the crank as the piston descends on the power stroke
I have been banging my drum on this topic for sometime now. You guys need to determine whether you're going to be needing the low end hound-dog power, or the lake racing light-your-a** on fire top end. Your new and improved torque should help you with either.
When I run Lake O'Brien road out of Upson I like both, that's why I run the stock settings. But I do have a Ross Schmidt crank that can handle the wear and tear of Northern Iron county and my rip grippin' throttle thumb.
I think you can get the best results with a lighter can, louder (but not too loud) pipe, and some torquey type clutch mods.
Best of luck and remember, please remember, keep the hand signals to a safe and effective minimum.
XC500mod
"custom sled, custom boat, custom wife - custom life."
