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which poo suspension should i consider?
- Thread starter snake
- Start date
Well if you want a 144" you're looking at the pro ride. It's pretty much the same as the iq in a 144". You'd have to go 136" or less to get the "rush" suspension. I'd prefer to have the rush suspension in a 136" to help bridge moguls better. I don't need more than 136" even in 4 feet deep of snow. I can take my 121" through that with a cobra track; I just have to move quicker. You must ask yourself; does anyone really need more than 136" in the UP or wi? Anything over that is total overkill unless you want a skinnier ski stance.
Well if you want a 144" you're looking at the pro ride. It's pretty much the same as the iq in a 144". You'd have to go 136" or less to get the "rush" suspension. I'd prefer to have the rush suspension in a 136" to help bridge moguls better. I don't need more than 136" even in 4 feet deep of snow. I can take my 121" through that with a cobra track; I just have to move quicker. You must ask yourself; does anyone really need more than 136" in the UP or wi? Anything over that is total overkill unless you want a skinnier ski stance.
I beg to differ for logging roads yes a 136 is fine but slow boondocking in the woods and tight tree hill climbs a 136 will work some times but not all the time.in fact I can think of alot of places I would not try to go with a 136 because it would be more trubbel than it is worth.
with that said if you only go off the trail to ride a open patch or fire or twin track just off the trail then the 136 heck the 121 is just fine.
there are times I wish I had a 121 but those times are short lived.I have come the the conclusion I dont like riding trail much any more after 20min I am over it and thinking of the closest spot to get off and in the the woods so for me a 144/2 is the min.that exclueds me from some trips my buds go on but like I said after 20 min I am over trail riding any way so 600mi back pack weekends just sound gruling to me now
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D
Deleted member 10829
Guest
ezra is right, it all depends on how much trail riding you do vs. off trail. What percentage to you ride each?
As the earlier poster mentioned- the 'pro-ride' (funny looking, new/rush style rear suspension) is only offered in the 121 or 136 (switchback). And 2012 is the first year it was offered in the 136. If you want 144- it is the standard/IQ suspension.
My husband just bought a 2012 800 pro-R (121 length track) and it's AWESOME! The rear suspension was 'good'- but it was set up for him, not me- so I didn't really get to experience it's full capabilities. But it's hand-adjustable- no tools. They give you a little chart/gauge you can keep in your pocket and you turn the shock to adjust to your weight. Then, there is a walker evans shock where you can fine tune further to a harder or softer ride (depdending on your current conditions). You don't even have to get off of the sled to do this, just stop, reach back, turn it a few clicks, and you're off again. Pretty impressive. But what really impressed me- was the steering/handling. It was so easy and effortless. No ski lift- just turn and go. I have a 2009 800 dragon (IQ chassis) that I never really thought was hard to steer, but the ski lift did kind of bug me. But we stopped and switched in the trail and I rode that new sled for a solid 10 miles and was AMAZED. My husband said- funnest (is that a word?) snowmobile he's ever owned. Makes him love the sport all over again.
My husband just bought a 2012 800 pro-R (121 length track) and it's AWESOME! The rear suspension was 'good'- but it was set up for him, not me- so I didn't really get to experience it's full capabilities. But it's hand-adjustable- no tools. They give you a little chart/gauge you can keep in your pocket and you turn the shock to adjust to your weight. Then, there is a walker evans shock where you can fine tune further to a harder or softer ride (depdending on your current conditions). You don't even have to get off of the sled to do this, just stop, reach back, turn it a few clicks, and you're off again. Pretty impressive. But what really impressed me- was the steering/handling. It was so easy and effortless. No ski lift- just turn and go. I have a 2009 800 dragon (IQ chassis) that I never really thought was hard to steer, but the ski lift did kind of bug me. But we stopped and switched in the trail and I rode that new sled for a solid 10 miles and was AMAZED. My husband said- funnest (is that a word?) snowmobile he's ever owned. Makes him love the sport all over again.
Trees4Traction440
New member
snake-
I have a 144 with 2" track...any 144 polaris '10 and newer will be the same suspension. It has tip up rails and i can ride my 144 down the trails like i could my 121...it handles similiar. and in the trees if you are getting into boondocking the 144 helps keep you on top of the snow and not trenching. Depends on if you are off trail riding more. a 136 will do it all but the 136 rails are flat and they have a wider turning radius and tend to push more then a 144 w/ tip up rails. Just my 2cents
I have a 144 with 2" track...any 144 polaris '10 and newer will be the same suspension. It has tip up rails and i can ride my 144 down the trails like i could my 121...it handles similiar. and in the trees if you are getting into boondocking the 144 helps keep you on top of the snow and not trenching. Depends on if you are off trail riding more. a 136 will do it all but the 136 rails are flat and they have a wider turning radius and tend to push more then a 144 w/ tip up rails. Just my 2cents
As the earlier poster mentioned- the 'pro-ride' (funny looking, new/rush style rear suspension) is only offered in the 121 or 136 (switchback). And 2012 is the first year it was offered in the 136. If you want 144- it is the standard/IQ suspension.
My husband just bought a 2012 800 pro-R (121 length track) and it's AWESOME! The rear suspension was 'good'- but it was set up for him, not me- so I didn't really get to experience it's full capabilities. But it's hand-adjustable- no tools. They give you a little chart/gauge you can keep in your pocket and you turn the shock to adjust to your weight. Then, there is a walker evans shock where you can fine tune further to a harder or softer ride (depdending on your current conditions). You don't even have to get off of the sled to do this, just stop, reach back, turn it a few clicks, and you're off again. Pretty impressive. But what really impressed me- was the steering/handling. It was so easy and effortless. No ski lift- just turn and go. I have a 2009 800 dragon (IQ chassis) that I never really thought was hard to steer, but the ski lift did kind of bug me. But we stopped and switched in the trail and I rode that new sled for a solid 10 miles and was AMAZED. My husband said- funnest (is that a word?) snowmobile he's ever owned. Makes him love the sport all over again.
I believe the pro ride rear suspension on '11 and up is different from the iq.
Your dragon has inside ski lift? What you said is just the opposite of me when I rode my brother's rush. His has terrible inside ski lift and my iq has almost none. When I put the cobra track on mine it transformed my sled to near perfect for trails.
I have an 11 Rush LX, 121 track and a 12 Adventure with the 136. The LX with the short track tends to fishtail alot compared to the Adventure. In fact my wife wants me to trade in her LX and get her a Switchback like mine. She feels alot more in control with the longer track. The last two rides we took I didn't even get to ride my Adventure because she was happier on it than the LX. Point being, keep the wife happy and I'm happy, lol.
How does the 121 Rush compare to the 136 Switchback Rush in the trails? I'm considering the same on whether a 136 is better, but like a sled that handles well in the turns.
D
Deleted member 10829
Guest
switch07 makes a good point. IMO, the only way a 121 will be better is if you are riding tight twisties 90% of the time, and even then, it could be argued the 136 is better depending on your riding style. There's a reason the OEM's have moved their emphasis to the 136/137 track, they are better in almost all cases.
Polarice- yep, the rear suspension is different starting in 2010. 2010 was the debut of the 'rush' and the funny looking rear suspension. Only offered in the 600 motor. Then they offered it in 2011 in the 600 & 800. In 2012, they introduced it in the 136/switchback model. So just pointing that out- if they want longer than 121 track, you're looking at a 2012 or newer to get that new suspension.
And yes- my sled has total inside ski lift. The people that ride behind me laugh- if we're riding twistys, I spend more time on one ski than 2. Which is fine, I'm used to it. But my husband's new Pro-R didn't do that at all. And aside from the ski lift difference- it felt very 'light' to steer. Meaning, it was effortless. No sore arms/back after a 200+ mile day on that thing! I'm sure I could make some adjustments on mine to reduce it. I'm just one of those people who doesn't mess with things. It could probably be better, but I feel like I know exactly how it rides, so don't want to go changing things. Logical right? =)
And yes- my sled has total inside ski lift. The people that ride behind me laugh- if we're riding twistys, I spend more time on one ski than 2. Which is fine, I'm used to it. But my husband's new Pro-R didn't do that at all. And aside from the ski lift difference- it felt very 'light' to steer. Meaning, it was effortless. No sore arms/back after a 200+ mile day on that thing! I'm sure I could make some adjustments on mine to reduce it. I'm just one of those people who doesn't mess with things. It could probably be better, but I feel like I know exactly how it rides, so don't want to go changing things. Logical right? =)
Polarice- yep, the rear suspension is different starting in 2010. 2010 was the debut of the 'rush' and the funny looking rear suspension. Only offered in the 600 motor. Then they offered it in 2011 in the 600 & 800. In 2012, they introduced it in the 136/switchback model. So just pointing that out- if they want longer than 121 track, you're looking at a 2012 or newer to get that new suspension.
And yes- my sled has total inside ski lift. The people that ride behind me laugh- if we're riding twistys, I spend more time on one ski than 2. Which is fine, I'm used to it. But my husband's new Pro-R didn't do that at all. And aside from the ski lift difference- it felt very 'light' to steer. Meaning, it was effortless. No sore arms/back after a 200+ mile day on that thing! I'm sure I could make some adjustments on mine to reduce it. I'm just one of those people who doesn't mess with things. It could probably be better, but I feel like I know exactly how it rides, so don't want to go changing things. Logical right? =)
I was referring to the 144" and up pro ride rear suspensions.
I would definitely adjust your suspension. Why deal with that? That dragon is an awesome sled. You have adjustable everything on that too. It's the 'earlier' version of a pro r. Believe me, you can without a doubt get that sled to perform close, if not just as good as that pro r.
I would start by turning the springs on the front so they're a little stiffer. Of course that may be what's doing it if it's set up for a heavier rider. Also, there is a block that you can change for weight transfer so the front end won't lift as much. Set your cams for sag properly too. The iq suspension is better than anything I've ever rode. You just have to adjust for the rider.
Like I said earlier, my iq is almost perfect and it's just the shift. I have a zero pro shock on the rear and a cobra track. I put dual carbides on and adjusted the front springs very little.
Well if you want a 144" you're looking at the pro ride. It's pretty much the same as the iq in a 144". You'd have to go 136" or less to get the "rush" suspension. I'd prefer to have the rush suspension in a 136" to help bridge moguls better. I don't need more than 136" even in 4 feet deep of snow. I can take my 121" through that with a cobra track; I just have to move quicker. You must ask yourself; does anyone really need more than 136" in the UP or wi? Anything over that is total overkill unless you want a skinnier ski stance.
Its funny to me when people say you dont need anything more than a 136 in the UP. They never seem to be around to help dig me out when im stuck ! I had a 800 146 summit with a 2 1/4 track burried up to the handle bars stuck in a gully last weekend. The people that were with me on 136's had to hike in about 250 yards on foot to help me get out. Had to dig it out by hand because they would get stuck before they could even get close to me let alone get within snobungi range!
It depends on where you want to try to go when in the UP. If your gonna stick to trails and logging roads . then YES a 136 is all you will need. Most if not all longer than 136 sleds have tipped up rails and the trail ride fine. I would ride any mtn sled on the UP trails all day with no problem. But you have to be honest with yourself as to what kind of riding you really do. Most consider themselves boondockers but really just ride powerlines and logging roads. Rush suspension is nice but longer bridges the moguls better imo
Go with 144 no matter what riding you do if its mainly UP. IMHO. Gives you way more options if you decide one day you wanna see if you could go down into that gully and make it back out!
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Its funny to me when people say you dont need anything more than a 136 in the UP. They never seem to be around to help dig me out when im stuck ! I had a 800 146 summit with a 2 1/4 track burried up to the handle bars stuck in a gully last weekend. The people that were with me on 136's had to hike in about 250 yards on foot to help me get out. Had to dig it out by hand because they would get stuck before they could even get close to me let alone get within snobungi range!
It depends on where you want to try to go when in the UP. If your gonna stick to trails and logging roads . then YES a 136 is all you will need. Most if not all longer than 136 sleds have tipped up rails and the trail ride fine. I would ride any mtn sled on the UP trails all day with no problem. But you have to be honest with yourself as to what kind of riding you really do. Most consider themselves boondockers but really just ride powerlines and logging roads. Rush suspension is nice but longer bridges the moguls better imo
Go with 144 no matter what riding you do if its mainly UP. IMHO. Gives you way more options if you decide one day you wanna see if you could go down into that gully and make it back out!
It's all about momentum man. Sure if they were on 136s and drove to get you out, when stopped they're stuck.