09 ac m8 ecu17

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lenny

Guest
I know ECU 17 is Exhaust temp sensor. I changed the sensor, checked all the wiring from sensor connector all the way back to connector on ECU with me trusty Fluke. i didn't actually check resistance which I will do in the AM but good continuity. I checked the connectors themselves and cannot locate a problem. What else may I be missing?
 
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lee

Member
on a car when a code is set lets say an o-2 sensor code it doesn't mean the senor is always at fault,could be a fuel air ratio is out of spect
 
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catguy

New member
check--

check 2 things--old gas?
clutching-set up for high elevation?

I have an 09 crossfire 8, when I first bought it I got the code, can't remember if it was for exh temp sensor or knock sensor, but I put fresh gas in it, never seen it again. Mine did burn down at 1200 miles, (I bought it with 95 miles on it) and it had 9000 ft + clutching installed, I didn't know it and was running it in the Midwest that way... I can't say for certain that the clutching was the cause of the burn down, but I checked everything I could think of while rebuilding the motor. Found no water in gas, acceptable alcohol content, no oil issues, etc. Next fall while installing a clutch kit, I compared the numbers of what I was taking out against the part list sticker on sled and realized that I was running it at low elevations with high elevation clutching. Now theres 5000 miles on it and still running great!
 
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lenny

Guest
it's been running all winter so lots of new gas run through it and it for sure has the proper weights in primary, thanks.
 
bayfly

bayfly

Active member
My son has been running a 2011 crossfire with this code for about two years without a problem. We switched out the sensor twice and had it the shop twice. Spent about $600 at the dealer without resolving the issue. There is a lot of info on line about this. The last potential solution we came across was to replace the wiring harness. I got tired of spending money on it so we have not pursued this option. Is there a can on the sled? I have heard that the vibrations for an aftermarket can may cause the sensor reading. Sorry I couldn't offer a solution but if you find one please let me know.
 
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lenny

Guest
can is stock. The problem I see is that if the ecu detects problems in exhaust temps odds are it's gonna keep adjusting up and down fuel ratio and more likely more fuel dogging it down probably. I'm just guessing but if sensor problem than ECU tries to fix. My big question is how is the code tripped? Is it solely not getting info from sensor? What can tell the ECU the sensor is failing, signal only?
 
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ezra

Well-known member
I had a connector that was bad on the sled side of the connector. it was not all the way out only when vibrating would it be bad. I ended up soldering on new hardware store wire plugs on it.
also a chevy sensor for I think the 05 ish diesel is the same as the cat for 3/4 less the cost do a search on snowest or hcs for chev part number.
truth is u prob cant tell performace diff when it is bad.
those sensors are junk every cat I have owned has gone through at least 1 I always have a extra in my tool box for trips . I stre it next to my poo buds voltage regulators
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
ezra said:
I had a connector that was bad on the sled side of the connector. it was not all the way out only when vibrating would it be bad. I ended up soldering on new hardware store wire plugs on it.
also a chevy sensor for I think the 05 ish diesel is the same as the cat for 3/4 less the cost do a search on snowest or hcs for chev part number.
truth is u prob cant tell performace diff when it is bad.
those sensors are junk every cat I have owned has gone through at least 1 I always have a extra in my tool box for trips . I stre it next to my poo buds voltage regulators
Click to expand...

x2 buddy from work races snocross, every sled he's owned has needed one and has always bought the duramax sensor.
 
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lenny

Guest
yea, I read that the GM sensor will work,,in fact the last one in it was a GM. I did look at a wiring diagram and see that a wire from the exhaust temp sensor is connected with the air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, key switch and a wire in the handle bar controls. Like I said, so far I checked the wires directly related to the exhaust temp sensor and with a resistance test I see no issues so far. Any suggestions before I search for a nice thick rope, tree and a horse.
 
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thebreeze

Member
At this point, is it still wired through the plug, or is it hardwired into the sled side of the electrical system? Does the error code show all of the time, or intermittently? If intermittent, and its testing out ok, I would suspect a broken wire inside of the insulation some where along the loop. Maybe check to see if resistance changes white jiggling things around.
 
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lenny

Guest
thebreeze said:
At this point, is it still wired through the plug, or is it hardwired into the sled side of the electrical system? Does the error code show all of the time, or intermittently? If intermittent, and its testing out ok, I would suspect a broken wire inside of the insulation some where along the loop. Maybe check to see if resistance changes white jiggling things around.
Click to expand...

It is wired through the OG connectors. The problem has been intermittent but seems to be most the time now. I rode it sat all day and it was on most the time, noticed it was off a few times.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
it is just stupid why they use such thin gauge and crap connectors.
I have a new b itch any one other than me tag a tree with the top left of the sled on a new style M.
yep did it and it knocked the coolant cap loose so the antifreeze could blow out of a already low capacity system. then U need to take 20min just to get to cap so u can dump some water in .then 10 more to slap it back together
 
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lenny

Guest
hey,,,, my coolant cap, is it like a gas cap where it gets tight and than turns more or does it tighten down tight. I know it is a pressure cap for 15 lbs but mine does not get tight and was thinking the threads may be shot. Coolant bottle was full when left and empty when I came back but must not lost enough to run hot.
 
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thebreeze

Member
Glad you got er fixed. The coolant caps on the m-sleds just go on funny. You kind of have to push down on it with your palm, and it takes a few turns to catch, but it will. Then keep it rolling until tight.
 
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lenny

Guest
thanks guys, I appreciate all the help, I did check out that cap and the oring needs to be pushed down in and than turned, sorry to ask such a dumb question,,,doh
 
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sweeperguy

Active member
lenny said:
thanks guys, I appreciate all the help, I did check out that cap and the oring needs to be pushed down in and than turned, sorry to ask such a dumb question,,,doh
Click to expand...

The only dumb question is the one not asked. And then you really mess something up.

Wiring, electrical issues ARRGGH.
 
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