firefighter1
Member
I want to pull the engine and can’t figure out exactly how the injectors and intake come off the engine. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
2012 Polaris Rush 600
- Thread starter firefighter1
- Start date
A buddy who has the 800, had done two motors, and I'm pretty sure you need to pull the seat off, the plastics, and slide the tank back and attack it from the back side. You can't just pull it out the front like it looks.
firefighter1
Member
Well I didn’t want to hear that, dealer yesterday said if I pull the air box off there are two screws holding the intake to the engine. He also said it’s easier to take the cross members out of the way as well. I think I will call the shop and see if they can do it in the sled or they can pull it.
Yup - my friend who has done it a few times has the routine down, its still a couple hour project at least.
firefighter1
Member
I haven’t taken the cross members out yet but I have the engine ready to pull minus the primary clutch. I don’t have the puller for Polaris only have one for Skidoo. I have to drop the engine off next week to have the top end done. I still need to have a few things tested to find the cause.
I hope you are joking... I got VERY good at pulling my 2012 Pro-R 800 motor out and back in because of that guy. NEVER again!! Yes to get the intake off you have to pull the motor. To pull the motor you need to remove the clutch. There is a motor mount behind the primary clutch. This is what happened as I was trying to pull the clutch.
I sent the motor to Dan so he could remove the rest of the clutch from the crank. The motor got back to me and made it 9 miles. He had put the wrong bearings on the crank. So out it came again. This all started because I needed to replace the RH side of the belly pan. The glued in cast aluminum piece that the a-arms bolt to was cracked. Wonder how insurance wouldve handled that whole situation...
firefighter1
Member
That clutch does not look healthy. I did end up pulling the engine out the other day, I went to Diamond extreme in Cannon Falls and bought a clutch puller. A few turns and the clutch was off and the engine out. I have pulled a Rev engine before and to be honest a EFI engine seems a little easier to pull. As always taking something apart is always easier than reassembly. With the pictures I took and a little common sense it should go back in fairy easy. I ended up taking the engine to the person who did my crank work on the rev I had. I probably should have done the work myself like I did before but I had help from some guys in our club who rebuild engines more than I and right now isn’t the best time to invite friends over to the house. Surprisingly enough the head and jug on the pto side where the piston is missing a piece is in great shape, not sure how that could happen but both the mechanic and I figure the piece broke off and hit the plug to close the gap and shot right out the exhaust without doing any damage. My mag side is the one with the plug white and the piston clean as if I had coolant in the cylinder. I hope that is the case and I find out why it went down, I am going to have the injectors cleaned. I did drain the fuel out of the tank and it doesn’t appear to have water in the gas so that takes bad gas out of play. So hopefully a head gasket and I guess these sled were know for bad pistons from the factory. The plan is to sell it to my coworker this fall and I hope to order a new sled in the next few days. I will keep my 1200 and put my son on that. If anyone has any other things I should look at for possible causes let me know, I would feel awful if it went down shortly after I sold it. We did look at both crank seals and they do not appear to be leaking at first glance but I have not done a leak down test. I will say three different mechanics have told me over the phone that the 600’s were not known for bad crank seals and they would highly doubt that is the issue.
indy_500
Well-known member
I'd replace the fuel filter.
sweeperguy
Active member
Is there a "real" fuel filter? Or just the sock end in the tank
indy_500
Well-known member
In a 2012 rush there is a legit filter. I wouldn’t run one over 2000 miles or 3 years without changing. I use SPI filters in all the ones I’ve changed. Half the price.
sweeperguy
Active member
Thanks, I think my buds rush is a 12. That's why I asked. Pretty sure he probably hasn't replaced it. He's kinda lame on preventative maintenance, other than summerize. He runs the idler wheels till they fall off, or you can see the bearings are gone cuz they're skewed.
firefighter1
Member
I did replace the fuel filter last season so it only has 800 miles on. Since I have it apart now I went back into the tank and replaced the fuel sock again. Keep all the advice coming, seems like I’m doing everything correct so far except I wish I had done a leak down test before opening up the engine but then again I don’t know how to do it anyway. Haha
firefighter1
Member
Well I got the engine installed today. I did end up replacing the fuel sock as I had two extra. I drained all the fuel so I could refill with 91, I also added some oil to the tank at a 60/1 mix. I only put 3 gallons of fuel in.
I did take my injectors over to Indy Dan to have them flow tested and cleaned, they came back fine so that wasn’t the issue. I also had my crank seals checked and they were good as well. As I was talking to Indy he looked and my piston and believes it was bad gas. He also said timing on the 600 is fixed so that probably isn’t the issue either. I really have went thru everything and I guess in the end it could be bad gas.
So after installing the engine I was a little nervous to start it for the first time, ten pulls or so later it was running. I figured with the lines completely dry it would take a few pulls to prime everything. When it came to life it sound great, I did pull the oil line to full oil to make sure the lines filled good and I put the front of the sled in the air to force air out of the cooling system. All heat exchangers were warm so I guess that’s good.
The check engine light was on when I first started the sled and was going thru my checks but after I put it under load it went out and never came back on. Seems strange but I did start it a few more times this afternoon and it never came back on. It also goes in and out of reverse with no issues.
From what I can see I have no leaks yet anyways, I put it in my trailer but I will take both out in early May to summarize them so I will update if anything changes. I may have left some things out so feel free to ask me how or what I did or let me know what I forgot as a lot of people on this site know more than me.
I did take my injectors over to Indy Dan to have them flow tested and cleaned, they came back fine so that wasn’t the issue. I also had my crank seals checked and they were good as well. As I was talking to Indy he looked and my piston and believes it was bad gas. He also said timing on the 600 is fixed so that probably isn’t the issue either. I really have went thru everything and I guess in the end it could be bad gas.
So after installing the engine I was a little nervous to start it for the first time, ten pulls or so later it was running. I figured with the lines completely dry it would take a few pulls to prime everything. When it came to life it sound great, I did pull the oil line to full oil to make sure the lines filled good and I put the front of the sled in the air to force air out of the cooling system. All heat exchangers were warm so I guess that’s good.
The check engine light was on when I first started the sled and was going thru my checks but after I put it under load it went out and never came back on. Seems strange but I did start it a few more times this afternoon and it never came back on. It also goes in and out of reverse with no issues.
From what I can see I have no leaks yet anyways, I put it in my trailer but I will take both out in early May to summarize them so I will update if anything changes. I may have left some things out so feel free to ask me how or what I did or let me know what I forgot as a lot of people on this site know more than me.
firefighter1
Member
Well the engine came back and the code was TPS sensor, got a used one and had Indy specialties replace it and all is well now.
With no proof for sure this sensor could be responsible for the original piston issue as the told me this sensor controls fuel mapping and could affect cooling in both cylinders if it doesn’t add enough fuel.
All is well now and it starts and runs perfect. It will be up for sale late summer to make room for my new one.
With no proof for sure this sensor could be responsible for the original piston issue as the told me this sensor controls fuel mapping and could affect cooling in both cylinders if it doesn’t add enough fuel.
All is well now and it starts and runs perfect. It will be up for sale late summer to make room for my new one.