Anybody know where I can get these bolts in the Fox Valley area of Wisconsin?

[indy_500]

I need GRADE 8!! i need them 1/4x20x5 in. long. Fleet Farm, Menards and most hardware stores don't carry them longer than 4 in. I've snapped 2 grade 5 bolts, and 1 zinc bolt on my handlebar riser. I bought a stainless steel to get me through but then another grade 5 bolt snapped and i only bought the zinc one in case something like this happened. But i want all grade 8 and i'm having trouble. i found some place online but i'm looking for somewhere in the valley that carries lots and lots of bolts!

Thanks

 

[slednek]

You might want to try a machine shop in the area. A 5 in grade 8 bolt shouldn't be problem for them.

 

[sledheadprox2]

Fastenal store in your area they might have it on hand if not they can order in 1-2 days.
No they are not open sat or sun .

Fastenal Location
1050 N. Perkins St.
Appleton, WI 54914
: (920)738-0300

Think Snow!!!

 

[indy_500]

Fastenal store in your area they might have it on hand if not they can order in 1-2 days.
No they are not open sat or sun .

Fastenal Location
1050 N. Perkins St.
Appleton, WI 54914
: (920)738-0300

Think Snow!!!

i looked that up, i might be going there this week. i finally found a grade 5 1/4x20x5 in. long at tractor supply so i bought it just in case. i bought a stainless steel which didn't snap but i bought a zinc and that snapped. i snapped 2 grade 5's already but those grade 5's i bought at a swap meet with the riser and they were kinda bent and they got this white stuff peeling off them, they don't look very good but i used them this year than when i swapped the riser on another sled they just kept snapping as i was tightening.

 

[sledheadprox2]

The white stuff is probably oxidation, which makes the bolt weak,
and a stainless steel bolt is closes 2 a grade 8 only more expensive.
Fastenal carrys all kinds of nuts and bolt anything industrial.

Think Snow!!!!

 

[indy_500]

The white stuff is probably oxidation, which makes the bolt weak,
and a stainless steel bolt is closes 2 a grade 8 only more expensive.
Fastenal carrys all kinds of nuts and bolt anything industrial.

Think Snow!!!!

yeah, i payed $2 for that stainless steel but i want all grade 8.

 

[nhra1000]

you might want to try and figure out how to run a shorter bolt....counterbore one side or? A socket head cap screw would be the way to go if you can work it out.

 

[indy_500]

you might want to try and figure out how to run a shorter bolt....counterbore one side or? A socket head cap screw would be the way to go if you can work it out.

i was thinking of drill the holes bigger and putting a thicker bolt on but that seems like a lot of work and then i will always have bigger holes in the steering post

 

[mjkaliszak]

you might want to try and figure out how to run a shorter bolt....counterbore one side or? A socket head cap screw would be the way to go if you can work it out.

Like nhra1000 said.... Try to counterbore and use a SHCS. Shorten the bolt length, most industrial suppliers will have to order 5" lenghts. They ( is seems ) carry "in stock" lenghts up to 3" . ( Generally speaking )

 

[propjockey]

I need GRADE 8!! i need them 1/4x20x5 in. long. Fleet Farm, Menards and most hardware stores don't carry them longer than 4 in. I've snapped 2 grade 5 bolts, and 1 zinc bolt on my handlebar riser. I bought a stainless steel to get me through but then another grade 5 bolt snapped and i only bought the zinc one in case something like this happened. But i want all grade 8 and i'm having trouble. i found some place online but i'm looking for somewhere in the valley that carries lots and lots of bolts!

Thanks

McMaster-Carr....... www.mcmaster.com

If they don't have it, nobody makes it. Seriously.

I did a quick search and it doesn't look like they have it in that length. You may have to buy some Grade 8 threaded rod and use two nuts or a nylon lock nut. My guess.....You'll be drilling that out for a larger diameter bolt. At some point in a bolts length, the effect of "grade" decreases significantly when the length increases. You can only put so much torque on a bolt before it snaps.


Best of luck...

-J-

 

[indy_500]

i found it in grade 8 that's 5 inches long on fastenal's website. just don't know whether or not they have it in the stores. i was thinking of drilling out for more strength but going thru the 3 in. block is going to be hard.

 

[stealthv]

The white stuff is galvanic corrosion where the steel (and stainless steel bolts) are literally rusting away the aluminum.

To what torque are you tightening the bolts? Four 1/4" bolts should never break.

 

[indy_500]

The white stuff is galvanic corrosion where the steel (and stainless steel bolts) are literally rusting away the aluminum.

To what torque are you tightening the bolts? Four 1/4" bolts should never break.

i'm not torquing them, never thought i would need to on a handlebar. it was actually 3 of them that i broke, 2 grade 5 (with galvanic corrosion) and 1 zinc bolt that i bought for an extra in case i snapped a 2nd grade 5 which i did. i put brand new grade 5 (grade 5 is what you get when u buy the riser) so i just put them on and i tightened them pretty tight and they didn't snap, so i'm prolly not going to go and get the grade 8.

 

[yamadooed]

Grainger carries a box of ten HHCS that size...

 

[thebluff]

Looks like you found a solution. A bit more crude (mostly because bolt material probably varies from crap to good) would be to simply harden a bolt on your own. Digging into my memory banks from way back in a different carreer.....

Heat the area that needs toughing to a dull red color, then quench it it a can of oil, stirring very rapidly until it has cooled. An hour in the kitchen oven at 400 degrees then air cool should removed some of the stress (temper) the steel. Actually, a 400 degree bath in molten salt works best but not so practical.

Not sure what hardness a grade 8 bolt should be but if you have a decent carbon steel, a rockwell of 40-45 should be achievable. RC of 40-45 is tough, not brittle which is what i suspect you are going for.

A bolt made from crap metal might not harden either. Any tool and die shop could test the hardness for you or point you to someone that could.

 

[mjkaliszak]

Galvanic corrosion : I can't imagine how you are getting alot of this reaction on your sled ? It takes 1 anode metal and 1 cathode metal plus a medium of water to put this into play . Simply put do you store your sled out side ? If you do try to seal or cover up the bolt/riser area with a Bar pad or silicone sealant. The most moisture you will get after sealing or covering it will be condensation which will keep galvanic corrosion to a minimum. You need all 3 items for galvanic corrosion to occur.

 

[indy_500]

i dont' store it outside. i just bought the riser at a swap meet before this season and the bolt were sorta bent and they had all this white junk all over them i slapped them on and it worked for this season, went to take it off my sled and put it on another one and all the bolts just kept snapping.

 

[rp7x]

redrill

drill them out to 5/16"

 

[yamadooed]

Galvanic corrosion : I can't imagine how you are getting alot of this reaction on your sled ? It takes 1 anode metal and 1 cathode metal plus a medium of water to put this into play . Simply put do you store your sled out side ? If you do try to seal or cover up the bolt/riser area with a Bar pad or silicone sealant. The most moisture you will get after sealing or covering it will be condensation which will keep galvanic corrosion to a minimum. You need all 3 items for galvanic corrosion to occur.

The parts do not have to be submerged in water for them to corrode a simple layer of moisture would suffice...This combined with road salt was the nemisis for the older aluminum skinned steel framed trailers...

 

[mnguy]

I agree with the other posters....drill them out to 5/16". Not worth taking a chance on steering components.