Anybody know where I can get these bolts in the Fox Valley area of Wisconsin?

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mjkaliszak

New member
yamadooed said:
The parts do not have to be submerged in water for them to corrode a simple layer of moisture would suffice...This combined with road salt was the nemisis for the older aluminum skinned steel framed trailers...
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I'm sorry for trying to help " indy ".
 
E

EXCESSIVE FORCE

New member
propjockey said:
McMaster-Carr....... www.mcmaster.com

If they don't have it, nobody makes it. Seriously.

I did a quick search and it doesn't look like they have it in that length. You may have to buy some Grade 8 threaded rod and use two nuts or a nylon lock nut. My guess.....You'll be drilling that out for a larger diameter bolt. At some point in a bolts length, the effect of "grade" decreases significantly when the length increases. You can only put so much torque on a bolt before it snaps.


Best of luck...

-J-
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X2
On McMaster Carr. A great source for "odd" stuff,and quick shipping too.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
mjkaliszak said:
I'm sorry for trying to help " indy ".
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it's all right don't worry bout it not like i tried something and it blew up my sled or something lol... i'm thinking about drilling out but i don't it might be hard to get through the 3 in. riser
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
chords said:
I think Indy recently got in trouble for using the bath and I'm sure by now has been banned from using kitchen appliances.

Right Indy ?
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ya well i got in trouble for washing my skid in the bathtub then i got in trouble because i was cleaning my clutch in the kitchen sink then i got in trouble for using a spatula to pry open my taillight (i have a funky taillight that's glued on) and i broke the spatula in half. sinks, tubs, and kitchen appliances don't mix well with snowmobiles, but no lie go talk to the guy Ray's cycle is located in Medina, WI i'm pretty sure his name is milo. i'm sure motoski on here would have more to add about this sled. he still has the chassis behind the parking lot in the back of the place.
 
M

mjkaliszak

New member
indy_500 said:
it's all right don't worry bout it not like i tried something and it blew up my sled or something lol... i'm thinking about drilling out but i don't it might be hard to get through the 3 in. riser
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I can help with that, use fast RPM's when going from 1/4 to 21/64's. There will be less chance the drill to grab that way. Clamp down the riser and drill w/hand drill if you can't get to a drill press. You should have 3" of flute lenght at least with that drill. Use lube, whatever you have WD, kerosene mixed with a little oil ect....most importantly , clamp it down.... preferably NOT to your Dad's maple top work bench and drill into the top ( LOL your already in trouble) .
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
mjkaliszak said:
I can help with that, use fast RPM's when going from 1/4 to 21/64's. There will be less chance the drill to grab that way. Clamp down the riser and drill w/hand drill if you can't get to a drill press. You should have 3" of flute lenght at least with that drill. Use lube, whatever you have WD, kerosene mixed with a little oil ect....most importantly , clamp it down.... preferably NOT to your Dad's maple top work bench and drill into the top ( LOL your already in trouble) .
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i drill into his work bench 24/7 and that's not a problem lol but i just painted the riser now it might get scratched up again! dang should i go to 21/64 or 5/16? i might do that this weekend possibly.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
and i have another question, if i drill it out, the head of the bolt stays because it's grooved in on the handlebar clamp. if i got to a 5/16 or anything bigger is the head going to be the same size? if that comes into effect i'm not going to drill out.
 
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mnguy

New member
Use socket head cap screws. The nominal head size on a 5/16" bolt is .469" dia. Use a 1/2" drill bit to counterbore the hex holes.
 
7

700classic

New member
If Indy uses a drill to counterbore the holes won't that leave a tapered surface for the head of the bolt to seat against? It will be hard to get to stay tight, which may cause a problem with all his ditch banging.
 
yamadooed

yamadooed

Active member
Best ta just get the right bolts insteada cobbler'n up da whole front end wit glue n hose clamps n duck tape... Seen plenty 250 pound guys hang'n off dem 1/4" rizer bolts id guess indys half dat...
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
yamadooed said:
Best ta just get the right bolts insteada cobbler'n up da whole front end wit glue n hose clamps n duck tape... Seen plenty 250 pound guys hang'n off dem 1/4" rizer bolts id guess indys half dat...
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haha nope lol i wish. like 60 lbs shy of that
 
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mnguy

New member
Drill until it puts a light chamfer in the center hole. Since there are already 7/16" hexes there only the flats will be removed. Tighten the bolts using the head, the spinning action will displace the small amount of material left in the corners. Be sure to recheck after the first ride.

Personally, I would use a counterbore tool or an end mill. It doesn't sound like Indy has access to those though.
 
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