Changing clutch weights & jetting - 2008 RMK

6

600_RMK_144

Active member
Can't afford to pay the shop the $150 every time, so need to make these DIY projects. If you got any tips for switching out the clutch weights and yanking the carbs to swap out the jets, let me know. For the weights, looks like I'll have to pull the cover off the clutch (does the spider have to come off also?), will I have easy access to the weight pins after that to switch out? Also, are there torque specs when putting it all back together? Thanks for the tips on either of these.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
for the weights pull the belt then stick a screwdriver in the clutch by the spider and push it to collapse the clutch. kind of wedge it in there then U can pull weight out and slide new one in . prob 15min to do all weights.
the carbs on a rmk suck ***. best thing to do is gut the air box first time out so u can get your hand down in there to work boots around carbs when reinstalling .
or get a set of dial a jets . but U kind of have to know your sled by seat of the pants to usedial a jet.
or holtzman altitude compensation kit .
really if a guy shows u how 1st time real ez stuff. but not hard to figure on your own.
if U are in a club I can guarantee a guy in that club knows how and will show u or give him a hundo and he will teach u .whole job less than 1 hr

- - - Updated - - -

did not notice it was u if in town come to my house I will show u
 
H

Hoosier

Well-known member
Agree about the iq Chassis - clutch weights can be done by anyone once you see how, and the worst part of rejetting is the airbox, and if you gut it, makes that job much much easier. Once you do that, you can change them easy yourself.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
I've had no problems with those IQ airboxes CFI or carbed. Little finesse, nothing to be afraid of.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
really never ? they suck ars to get back on one of the worst I put them ahead of f7 even and they really suck
 
H

Hoosier

Well-known member
indy_500 said:
I've had no problems with those IQ airboxes CFI or carbed. Little finesse, nothing to be afraid of.
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You know your way around a sled better than me but I don't see how those carb boots aren't a pia without gutting it. I did the slp air horn but if I did it again I would just gut it. I don't think the kit does much if you are keeping everything else stock
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
I really think I struggle more sometimes with an edge airbox. The edge airbox is not friends with the jackshaft... I always try to get a bright trouble light down there to help.
 
6

600_RMK_144

Active member
Thanks, guys. With the snow coming tonight, hoping to get a short ride in to shake down the sled. Then I'll have to get it set up for my West trip coming up middle of the month. Should be able to give a full report on the carb boot debate shortly.
 
6

600_RMK_144

Active member
Busy day... Pro Armor Tether Installed, Chaincase flush & fill, New Carbides bolted on and last but not least - Jets & Weights. Manual sure didn't say anything about a crow bar in the clutch, but worked good, very easy job. Thanks for that tip. As for the carb boots, WTH?! Can't even say for certain if they are on. Can't see behind there to tell and sure as s**t can't get a hand in there. Best I can tell, they are on. Idol is notably higher with the different Jets, does that seem right? 400 Main + 50 Pilot to 270 Main + 55 Pilot. Triple checked everything else before putting back together, so hoping that's the cause for the higher RPM.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
a bit higher would be ok how much higher rpm numbers would be helpful ? did u brap it to see if it would come down?
after u get home and re jet pry apart air box and pull all the guts out then calk it back together . only way to really know if it is on is to reach your hand down in to it and feel around .
and report back on that pro armor tether I think I want one . every time I let my starter rope go back free it is knocking my tether off and it is in a pita spot to plug back in
 
H

Hoosier

Well-known member
600_RMK_144 said:
Busy day... Pro Armor Tether Installed, Chaincase flush & fill, New Carbides bolted on and last but not least - Jets & Weights. Manual sure didn't say anything about a crow bar in the clutch, but worked good, very easy job. Thanks for that tip. As for the carb boots, WTH?! Can't even say for certain if they are on. Can't see behind there to tell and sure as s**t can't get a hand in there. Best I can tell, they are on. Idol is notably higher with the different Jets, does that seem right? 400 Main + 50 Pilot to 270 Main + 55 Pilot. Triple checked everything else before putting back together, so hoping that's the cause for the higher RPM.
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You can turn the idle screw down by hand but it may be fine at altitude

Yeah I would gut it so you can get your hands in there and know for sure the boots are on.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
600_RMK_144 said:
Busy day... Pro Armor Tether Installed, Chaincase flush & fill, New Carbides bolted on and last but not least - Jets & Weights. Manual sure didn't say anything about a crow bar in the clutch, but worked good, very easy job. Thanks for that tip. As for the carb boots, WTH?! Can't even say for certain if they are on. Can't see behind there to tell and sure as s**t can't get a hand in there. Best I can tell, they are on. Idol is notably higher with the different Jets, does that seem right? 400 Main + 50 Pilot to 270 Main + 55 Pilot. Triple checked everything else before putting back together, so hoping that's the cause for the higher RPM.
Click to expand...

Shouldn't idle much higher than before. When you get out to altitude adjust it, just one screw that you can turn by hand. Not sure what the big gripe is about these airboxes, get yourself a bright flashlight and get your head down there you should be able to see that they're on all the way around.
 
R

rp7x

Well-known member
you know where you can stick that bright flashlight , your eyes will look like becons lol
 
6

600_RMK_144

Active member
Well, the RMK didn't blow, so all was good. Pro Armor tether worked great. Got lots of use as I attempted to master the powder turn (never did manage to stay on the sled). Only thing I would say is that the tether body is made of plastic (including the threads). Probably not a big deal if you are flush mounting, but I think metal threads would hold up better, you could easily strip these out.
 
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