Clutch rebuilding in SE MI
- Thread starter jccams
- Start date
D
Deleted member 10829
Guest
I sent mine off several years ago to get done and was very happy with them! I just can't come up with the name right now. I will post if I come up with it.
D
Deleted member 10829
Guest
Goodwin Performance is where I sent mine. I can't remember what it cost me, it was 5 years ago or so with 7,000 miles on it. Visit their website or give them a call for more info. Now is the time to do it before they get swamped!
indy_500
Well-known member
Depends on how hard you ride the sled. Typically between 5-8000 the clutch is on borrowed time I'd say. Heck my 08 RMK clutch looked brand new except for 1 completely junk roller with missing shims on each side with less than 1000 miles on it, It looks to me like it was put together at the factory without the shims, and I tore it apart tonight for my buddy who bought it from me, spider might be junk also. I think a dealer a few years back wanted $250-300 to rebuild my dads clutch on his sled. I now have all the tools to do it for less than $200, rebuild kits run around $100.
I assume you need a clutch puller tool specific to that clutch to get it off (the primary)? I will be driving right by Goodwin's Monday but I am not sure where I can get a puller by then
D
Deleted member 10829
Guest
Have you tried eBay?
The epi one is now $60 from the few places I checked. I didn't look around too much, as I was trying to find something I could buy by Saturday, as I'll be driving right by Goodwin's on Monday and Friday, so I thought it might work to drop my clutch off with them. I think I'll be doing the same thing in October for work again so I will probably just wait till then to figure it out. I saw that grease or water method today, but I'm not sure it would work well for a 9 year old sled that hasn't had the clutch off before.
joshwagner
New member
The only issue with using grease is that its, well, grease. Water and thread tape works well but the last time I did it I used cheap brandy, it was too cold and the water would have frozen on the cold clutch. That trick works especially well on the newer on SkiDoo's because the threads in the clutch match the threads in the output shaft. YMMV.
If you don't have that luxury (and I don't think you do), you'll need a bolt with threads that match the puller threads inside your clutch. Fill the bolt hole with water, wrap the threads with teflon tape - plenty, then put the sled on its side and thread your new bolt into the clutch (not the output shaft) and start tightening. It might take a couple of tries but you'll enjoy the very loud pop when you get it right. You might need a long handle wrench or breaker bar for the last couple of spins. Youtube it for your machine "water clutch removal"
+1 on goodwin. They know their stuff and with the press-fit graphite bushing on the doo's its worth not making a return trip after you've broken it.
Josh
If you don't have that luxury (and I don't think you do), you'll need a bolt with threads that match the puller threads inside your clutch. Fill the bolt hole with water, wrap the threads with teflon tape - plenty, then put the sled on its side and thread your new bolt into the clutch (not the output shaft) and start tightening. It might take a couple of tries but you'll enjoy the very loud pop when you get it right. You might need a long handle wrench or breaker bar for the last couple of spins. Youtube it for your machine "water clutch removal"
+1 on goodwin. They know their stuff and with the press-fit graphite bushing on the doo's its worth not making a return trip after you've broken it.
Josh
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There's one on amazon that says it will work for all Polaris sleds for $20..might try that.
http://www.amazon.com/Polaris-28705...laris+snowmobile+clutch+puller#productDetails
http://www.amazon.com/Polaris-28705...laris+snowmobile+clutch+puller#productDetails
Uncle Vito
New member
Thanks. The EPI one is the one the closest two Polaris dealers have on stock, so I'm assuming that's the go-to one for now.
indy_500
Well-known member
I have 2 EPI pullers, very good quality. I would not buy a cheap one, if it wasn't heat treated properly it will break off and you'll need a new crankshaft. Much cheaper to spend an extra $20 or so on a good puller. I use a 2' breaker bar and a wood dowel to hold the clutch, sometimes takes 2 people. I have used grease a few times on older sleds works awesome, can of brake cleaner and some compressed air cleans it right up. Never tried water.
D.B. Cooper
Member
Before you buy that cheap P.O.S.^^^^ that might mess up the end of your crank;
MOST POLARIS Clutches have a 3/4" thread in them.
For an inexpensive clutch puller, Go to the local hardware store, purchase a 3/4" FINE Thread hardened bolt approx 1-1/2" - 2" long and wrap some Teflon tape around the threads.
Then fill the clutch bolt hole with water / oil / grease and tip the sled on its' side and remove it hydraulically.
NO pressure metal/metal contact on end of crank this way
There are SEVERAL different pullers for the POLARIS sleds, check the S.L.P. or HiPerf engineering website for applications/interchangability
The genuine POLARIS (made by SPX) tool for the DRAGON/IQ/RUSH/PRO is approx $ 50. Bought one several years ago, still works/acts like new