Enclosed trailer purchase.. looking for help

[bayfly]

Mine is also a 27' v-nose, 22' box plus 5' V. It's 8.5' wide and I would not go narrower since I use it for living space as well as hauling sleds. I can load 5 sleds with some effort. I've got a 30k BTU forced air RV furnace but also added a supplemental LP wall unit to cut down on the fan noise. Mine is a 2015 Stealth but was customized by Becker Trailers. We have slept 4 guys for multiple nights comfortably. I'm in the planning stage for a replacement next year, and this board is very helpful in getting ideas for the next build.

 

[heckler56]

A buddy of mine custom built a trailer to be a hauler and rv. He went with IT (InTech) out of Indiana. They are known for their auto race trailers and the quality is threw the roof (perfect weld beads, etc.) You start with cad cam design plans to custom reinforcements, holes, windows, doors, AC, tie downs, vents, etc where you plan to install them. Sounds expensive but I was blown away that it wasn’t too far off from a inventory premium snowmobile trailer.

 

[ICT Sledder]

Same here, I wanted a Triton when I bought in 2017 but they were over 2k more than a Legend. Triton was bought out not long ago so I would want to take a good look at one before buying it. I really liked their frame design.

Correct. Triton is now owned by the same company that actually also makes Stealth. A huge conglomerate call Alcon that makes all kinds of trailer brands - all generally pretty sketchy in quality. Th story goes that Alcon bought Triton, but is letting Triton still be an island unto itself within the greater company. One can only hope, because Alcon trailers are garbage.

 

[indy_500]

Correct. Triton is now owned by the same company that actually also makes Stealth. A huge conglomerate call Alcon that makes all kinds of trailer brands - all generally pretty sketchy in quality. Th story goes that Alcon bought Triton, but is letting Triton still be an island unto itself within the greater company. One can only hope, because Alcon trailers are garbage.

I wouldn’t call them garbage. But they’re just your average product.

 

[wisco-mb]

Mine is also a 27' v-nose, 22' box plus 5' V. It's 8.5' wide and I would not go narrower since I use it for living space as well as hauling sleds. I can load 5 sleds with some effort. I've got a 30k BTU forced air RV furnace but also added a supplemental LP wall unit to cut down on the fan noise. Mine is a 2015 Stealth but was customized by Becker Trailers. We have slept 4 guys for multiple nights comfortably. I'm in the planning stage for a replacement next year, and this board is very helpful in getting ideas for the next build.

Same size as mine. Works good! Especially if you need the 5th sled. That's the only time I have needed to "finesse" a sled around in there.
My fenders inside are not as tall as yours, so I was able to run the ski guides over the fenders.
I'll give some other specs I added from factory, and stuff I added. So I hope it will give you some fun ideas!

I added these additional factory options:
-Front ramp door: Roadside location (driver)
-Move standard side door to Roadside wall (driver)
-32 Degree Down Axles with Hypo Brackets, wheel well boxes 6” or less.
Run angle from floor to wheel well box for short ramp overs.
-Screwless exterior skin
-One 30” x 15” horizontal window: Curbside, centered above fender,
-Backup LED lights
-Stainless hasps
-side vents

All work was completed by myself and father. I work in electrical engineering in HVAC, so it was a fun project.
I made the bench mounted in front V. Cabinet frame built around the side. Bench can flip open. I can store extra tools, parts down there. This encloses the main electrical components and batteries. The side cabinet encloses the furnace, ducting, electrical switches, and other electrical.

I run a Atwood 35K BTU furnace. Trailer is fully insulated(floor, side, ceiling).
I made a boot / glove dryer with valve & end caps. It will fit 8 boots and 8 gloves.
The helmet cabinet is fully heated also.
The floor drain w/ heat tape is pretty crucial. It fits about 6 gallons and I can access the drain outside. Located in front V.
I also have a fan to push that heated air around. Pretty big difference with and without it(10F cooler on the floor without it).

I have 2 Duracell Deep Cycle Golf Cart Batteries 235AH. I use a 30A inlet with a 55Amp power center/converter/charger.
I also have a 3000W Inverter DC to AC, Pure sine wave(works better then modified sine).
I have 3 qty 100 Watt Solar Panels with a MPPT 30A Solar Charge Controller.
I have found in January this is not enough to keep up with the demand. Too low of sun, and cloudy days. Creating a 12V actuator for the panels is next on my list.

My furnace is controlled by:
-All On Switch
-Thermostat(programmable)
-Timer
-Remote/Alarm
I have a main shutoff switch by man door - One switch turns on/off: stereo, furnace, interior lights

I use the LCD 2 way alarm module for additional remote control of my front led lights, rear led lights, and furnace. The unit also has a digital temp readout on the LCD remote so I can monitor my interior temps if I need to turn furnace on from hotel/house. With the temp check, it verifies the furnace lit correctly.

I wired and mounted 3 qty SAE connectors on upper panels. These allow me to connect battery charging cables to the sled batteries. Allows them to trickle charge during the summer.

Thermostat requires 2 AA batteries. I hardwired them to a 3VDC source so I never have to replace batteries. Since this has a LCD, it only works above 32F. I use the timer to turn it on in those cases, and then set the temp once the stat is warmed up.

I have a +12VDC Actuator and fan for my vent. I have it hooked up to rh stat so it can open with sleds inside due to condensation when furnace is running. I also have it hooked up to a timer, so I will turn it on once I leave for riding for the day to clear the exhaust out. I wanted to have it open automatically when the sleds start up, but the CO detector(relay) was too slow, and the smoke detector(relay) didn't work below 32F. Timer it is.

You can never have enough hangers! I have a good amount spread out on the walls. Keeps everything off the floor.

 

[bayfly]

Same size as mine. Works good! Especially if you need the 5th sled. That's the only time I have needed to "finesse" a sled around in there.
My fenders inside are not as tall as yours, so I was able to run the ski guides over the fenders.
I'll give some other specs I added from factory, and stuff I added. So I hope it will give you some fun ideas!

I added these additional factory options:
-Front ramp door: Roadside location (driver)
-Move standard side door to Roadside wall (driver)
-32 Degree Down Axles with Hypo Brackets, wheel well boxes 6” or less.
Run angle from floor to wheel well box for short ramp overs.
-Screwless exterior skin
-One 30” x 15” horizontal window: Curbside, centered above fender,
-Backup LED lights
-Stainless hasps
-side vents

All work was completed by myself and father. I work in electrical engineering in HVAC, so it was a fun project.
I made the bench mounted in front V. Cabinet frame built around the side. Bench can flip open. I can store extra tools, parts down there. This encloses the main electrical components and batteries. The side cabinet encloses the furnace, ducting, electrical switches, and other electrical.

I run a Atwood 35K BTU furnace. Trailer is fully insulated(floor, side, ceiling).
I made a boot / glove dryer with valve & end caps. It will fit 8 boots and 8 gloves.
The helmet cabinet is fully heated also.
The floor drain w/ heat tape is pretty crucial. It fits about 6 gallons and I can access the drain outside. Located in front V.
I also have a fan to push that heated air around. Pretty big difference with and without it(10F cooler on the floor without it).

I have 2 Duracell Deep Cycle Golf Cart Batteries 235AH. I use a 30A inlet with a 55Amp power center/converter/charger.
I also have a 3000W Inverter DC to AC, Pure sine wave(works better then modified sine).
I have 3 qty 100 Watt Solar Panels with a MPPT 30A Solar Charge Controller.
I have found in January this is not enough to keep up with the demand. Too low of sun, and cloudy days. Creating a 12V actuator for the panels is next on my list.

My furnace is controlled by:
-All On Switch
-Thermostat(programmable)
-Timer
-Remote/Alarm
I have a main shutoff switch by man door - One switch turns on/off: stereo, furnace, interior lights

I use the LCD 2 way alarm module for additional remote control of my front led lights, rear led lights, and furnace. The unit also has a digital temp readout on the LCD remote so I can monitor my interior temps if I need to turn furnace on from hotel/house. With the temp check, it verifies the furnace lit correctly.

I wired and mounted 3 qty SAE connectors on upper panels. These allow me to connect battery charging cables to the sled batteries. Allows them to trickle charge during the summer.

Thermostat requires 2 AA batteries. I hardwired them to a 3VDC source so I never have to replace batteries. Since this has a LCD, it only works above 32F. I use the timer to turn it on in those cases, and then set the temp once the stat is warmed up.

I have a +12VDC Actuator and fan for my vent. I have it hooked up to rh stat so it can open with sleds inside due to condensation when furnace is running. I also have it hooked up to a timer, so I will turn it on once I leave for riding for the day to clear the exhaust out. I wanted to have it open automatically when the sleds start up, but the CO detector(relay) was too slow, and the smoke detector(relay) didn't work below 32F. Timer it is.

You can never have enough hangers! I have a good amount spread out on the walls. Keeps everything off the floor.

Impressive! Thanks for the great information. I am curious why the main door on the drivers side? That just seems like a hazard when parked on the street. Also, I am considering my next trailer to be a gooseneck with no front ramp. I haven’t needed to use my front ramp in years and it renders that whole wall section useless (not to mention the loss of heat). Any opposing thoughts on only going with the rear ramp?

 

[wisco-mb]

Thanks, welcome! For the door, I really never have it parked on the street. I do have times it was was parked along the road when I dropped somewhere, but pretty rare. Usually parking lots, and I never have to worry about that hazard. At my house, my access is on best used on that side, and closer to my driver door. I like the ramp on the driver side in case I park it along the road.

I did think of going no front ramp with mine. However, I'm glad I kept it. Typically at hotels, I will run my sleds in at night. Just to keep them safer, and not covered in ice or snow. There has been some tight spots, where I didn't have access to my rear door and I could only use the front ramp.
The big advantage with the gooseneck, would be the space/bed in the front. I know the trails west and logan high dollar goosenecks still have the front ramp on a gooseneck.

 

[Hoosier]

Looking at these pics, we need to do some work on our trailer to get stuff off the ground. Always too much moving stuff around when loading and unloading.

 

[wiharley02]

The benefit of having the man door on the drivers side is when the front ramp door is on the drivers side (typical for front ramp doors), when you drive the sleds in the front and your ski runs along/bounces off the kick board or diamond plate, you don't tear up the man door trim or damage the man door. I hate that my man door on my Legend Thunder is on the passenger side. I place a 2x4 across the door opening so the ski hits that when driving in and not the man door. I think Legend on most or all models has now moved the man door to the drivers side as a standard. When I upgrade in a couple of years from my 18' (23' with V), I'm looking forward to going longer to handle more sleds as the kids start riding, but I'm really looking forward to the man door being moved so loading is that much easier.

I am very happy with my Legend Thunder that is 10 years old now. Besides not liking the placement of the man door, I have very little to complain about the trailer. Mainly the Al-Ko leaf spring axles. The original tires only lasted 2-3 years. The axles were out of alignment. Not sure if that was Al-Ko axle defects or Legend mounting them wrong on the trailer. Had a axle/trailer shop align them and the new tires are wearing great. Other normal wear and tear on the axles of course, on my 3rd set of electric brake assemblies (adjusters rust tight and brakes become less effective). All of the spring hardware is worn out after 10 years, this summer I'm planning on new springs, u-bolts, equalizers, shackles, shackle bolts, etc.