I have a 2005 F250 6.0 that had an oil leak (rear cam seal I think it was), but that's it. But, it only has 18k miles on it... I only drive it here and there. It's a Harley Davidson edition, so it's more of a "pretty" truck than a work truck... That's why the miles are so low.
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Ford Diesel Engines
- Thread starter snofish
- Start date
Another note: If you WANT TO CAUSE PROBLEMS, chip it. A very high percentage of trucks that are chipped have head gasket and warped head issues. These aftermarket performance chips can and do cause lots of problems. Too high exhaust temps (NOT WATER TEMP!!) will take out a head gasket and or warp the heads. It only takes one hill with your foot in it for 20 to 30 seconds to do the damage. Exhaust temps can climb too high too fast (faster than you think) and damage the engine. Seen it too many times. People say "I watched the temp guage and it never got hot" Again, it's not water temp, it's exhaust temps that burn em up. Take my advice and DO NOT CHIP IT!!!
lx700kev, the thing i like about the banks systems is the fail safes to set for egt's & other things. i have mine set @ 1350 and when it reaches that the system will reset itself to get the egt temps back to a safe temp. don't know how good it works but mine hasn't went down yet.(i said yet lol) also a chipped truck needs to have a 4 in. exhaust or bigger to get the heat out. i have many freinds that have chipped trucks with many trouble free miles on them.
nytro
nytro
I have had mine modded since it had 11,000 miles on it and it now has 122,363 and have had very few problems with the engine. I run a multi posistion chip, 4" exhaust from the turbo all the way back, have a boost fooler that doesn't allow the MAP sensor to see over 20lbs. of boost so it won't defuel,has an open element air cleaner, a ported compressor housing, the ATS exhaust housing, a Banks wicked wheel, adjustable wastegate set real tight, regulated fuel system plus some other small mods. I lost a head gasket around 20,000 miles and puked the factory turbo from hitting 35-37 lbs. of boost quite frequently. Beside these two problems I had an IPR (injector pressure regulator) go bad but that is it. It gets 21-23 mpg on the highway not pulling but has got a best of 17 mpg pulling my 5th wheel but usually gets 15.5-16 mpg pulling it. With winter blend fuel it gets 12-14 pulling my 24 ft. fully enclosed steel framed haulmark trailer with 4 sleds 2 of which are Yamahas and 2 Polaris but 3 of them are long tracks. This has been a very good truck as I honestly have used it mostly for towing and when not pulling it has been driven quite hard more than a few times. Oh yeah mine is a 2001 7.3L Ford Super Duty 4x4 with 3.73 gears. trick on the highway is to keep it below 2,000 RPM as it will lose 2-3 mpg over that speed.
mark_e_hastings
New member
LK700KEV is right, you have to watch what you do to it. If it is just a downloder type upgrade you have no way to monitor things, I would put an Exhaust Temp gauge on it to monitor. I have a cummins and a TST chip which doesn't change the factory fuel map, but it has a wiring harness that plugs inbetween all the injectors, cam and crank sensor, map sensor and a modified wast gate elbow. And it has an EGT sensor that monitors the tempature and will set it to go back to stock timing once it goes over the set limit, and me like nitro rtx have mine set at 1350. Now I did blow up a stock turbo, but I am not sure if it was because I was pushing 45lbs of boost out of it or it did have some burnt oil on the bearing surface. The biggest reasion turbos go bad is because if it is too hot when you shut it off the oil film left on the shaft burns to it and eventually starts to build up and lowers the bearing cartridge clearance and eventually rubs and goes bad. That is why a lot of newer tuners have a cool down timer. Mine doesn't and i think that is why mine went bad. They say you should let your egt to cool down to below 350 before you shut it off.
For reference my 03 Dodge has a 5" exhaust, south bend clutch, bigger pusher fuel pump, open air filter, TST chip, and has been making 400+hp and around 850ft-lbs since around 20,000 and I have around 180,000 on it now. With one blowed up turbo and normal ball joints, clutchs and brakes.
-Mark
For reference my 03 Dodge has a 5" exhaust, south bend clutch, bigger pusher fuel pump, open air filter, TST chip, and has been making 400+hp and around 850ft-lbs since around 20,000 and I have around 180,000 on it now. With one blowed up turbo and normal ball joints, clutchs and brakes.
-Mark
I guess I should have included that I also have gauges, EGT, tranny and boost. I have a fuel gauge also. My EGT's have never been over 1150*F and that was on a long full throttle pull. It will hit 1,000*F fairly quickly but takes a while to climb higher. My turbo spools very fast. When i said I lost a head gasket in my previous post it was just leaking oil into the valley and dripping down the back of the block, so it was just torn, not completely blown as it didn't leak any coolant into the cylinder or oil into the antifreeze. Mark use Amsoil and forget about the oil coking up. Gene
mark_e_hastings
New member
Sledneck, how long do you run on an oil change with amsoil? A buddy of mine is a dealer, and he runs for 15,000 on one oil change and just changes the filter ever 5,000. That seems a bit long for me, but what do you run?
Mark I used to change it out at 7,500 mile intervals, but that was while I was still under warranty. Now that I'm out of warranty I'm going to try 25,000 just like Amsoil states that i can. I am also a dealer. Does your buddy do oil analysis? If he does ask him for the results, I would bet he could go longer. Is he using the Eao filters? If so I can't see why he's swapping the filter so frequently. The filter is rated for 25,000 miles also. I can tell you right now I have over 10,000 miles on this oil and it looks as clean now as it did the day I poured it in. I was hoping the video linked above would show the engine internals as it does in our Amsoil News magazines, they do regular teardowns on those trucks. It was very clean inside and the wear was very minimal, still within factory assembly specs. I have a buddy that uses Amsoil in everything he has, he had it in a 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer thta he sold to his nephew. After 1 month his brother in law calls and wanted to know what kind of antifreeze he used as it was down some and they couldn't figure out where it was going. He told them Amsoil, they said well we can't afford that it's too expensive. So they keep driving it for a couple of months and keep losing antifreeze. They find out it's going into the crankcase. A teardown reveals the engine to be fine. The mechanic tells the kid and his mother and father your Uncle sure did you a favor by running Amsoil as the engine is fine no damage at all. They replaced the intake gasket and he was good to go. Now he uses Amsoil as the mechanic told him it saved him a bunch of money. Sorry for the long post but I had to tell you the story. Gene
Let me clarify a bit on my warranty statement. I know the Moss Magnuson act and I know that running the Amsoil for 25,000 miles would be perfectly fine but if some catastrophic engine failure occured while running the Amsoil at 25,000 mile intervals you would be blamed for going over the manufacturers recommended oil change interval. Now this is a battle you could probably win but who can afford to have to pay for the engine and then go to court to try and recover the cost. I just avoided any potential problems by following the maximum 7,500 mile interval in my owners manual. Alot of Ford guys will know what I'm talking about with the HPOP (high pressure oil pump), but most guys with chips or high power programmers have to go to an aftermarket HPOP for the increased oil pressure, but with my Amsoil I'm seeing over 3,000 psi at full throttle and only 42% duty cycle on the stock HPOP. I can start my truck in -40*f temps without having to plug it in.Gene
mark_e_hastings
New member
My buddy changes filters because he uses them as a farm truck and always in the dirt. I think it is just a preventitive thing. I might try it with mine and see how it works. I still have one oil change left with regular oil. Still have 3 gallons on the shelf.
Mark how many miles on your truck? The reason I ask is if you have high miles you would be doing yourself a favor to get the Amsoil engine flush and use a good but cheap filter like Wally worlds Super Tech filter. Amsoil will clean up your deposits like you wouldn't believe and can plug up a filter. If you use a cheap filter with the engine flush it will get rid of most of the deposits then. If you do change to Amsoil I would flush it if you have high miles and use the cheap filter then get the good Eao filter. No sense paying that kind of price for a filter that will be on for just a few minutes. Ask your buddy about it if you decide to try it. It's also possible with some high mileage engines to need a couple filters (if the engine starts using up oil) that's a good indication the filter is plugged with the deposits the Amsoil will remove, then just change filters and top it off and good to go.
mark_e_hastings
New member
I have around 180,000 on it. I always change the oil around 5,000. I use the Shell brand Rotilla oil and a frame filter, as well as a Lucas oil stabilizer. It burns very very very little oil if any. It used to burn a quart every oil change before I replaced the turbo. I think it was a bad turbo from the factory because the new one is a factory replacement and sounds a lot different, it spools up way faster than the old one and makes more boost sooner than the factory one. The engine also stopped burning oil after I replaced it. So I think I had a bearing clearence issue on the origional one. I might try amsoil on the next change, espically if it will get me through the winter with out having to an oil change part way through.