How to reattch the track and suspension

[tubbywolfe]

We dropped the front end of the track to remove my drive shaft to pull the sheared bolt out that caused my chaincase problem, everything is now reinstalled but we can't get the track/suspension to line up to reattach and get me back on the trails. Any tips for lining up the side tunnel bolts and then once those are in the suspension

Thakns

 

[mxz500rider]

Tip sled on its side. May have to use ratchet strap to compress rear skid shock.

 

[Polarice]

Loosen the track tension all the way. Take the springs out of the cams to take tension off of those (the low, med, and high ones).

A ratchet strap may be the way to go like mxz500rider said or you could also take out the 2 rear bolts also. It's not that much extra work.

Suspensions are tough, I just changed my track. I was watching snowtrax the other day and they changed a track with the sled on it's side. I'm thinking that may be the way to go next time.

 

[indy_500]

I use a chain hoist. I just raise and lower it till the bolt holes line up. I can take a suspension in and out in less than a half hour.

 

[tubbywolfe]

I use a chain hoist. I just raise and lower it till the bolt holes line up. I can take a suspension in and out in less than a half hour.

We had a forklift to lift the rear up off the ground and can't seem to get everything to line up. we got the front bolts back in but now can't get the bolts attached towards the bottom of track behind the bogie wheel. the bar the limiter straps attach to.

 

[JB600]

We usually take out the bolts that hold the springs on the runners and that releases all the tension on that upper arm and then you line the holes up pretty quickly, then just reattach the springs to the runners. Sometimes you have to loosen the track tension to get the suspension in the track, but you are past that point.

 

[ezra]

put bolts in the fr arm 1st.then get rear of sled lowered to close to hole height of rear arm and tunnel mount.then get your impact wrench or drill with socket on it or just a ratchet.put it on the track tension/alignment bolts that push on rear wheels and start to tighten.track will start to tighten and collapse suspension until holes are lined up insert bolt then do other side .loosen bolts and adjust track.you can use straps/ pull springs or use chain/brute force but why trust me have done all of the above more times than I care to remember and hands down the most ez and fastest is what I described above

 

[ezra]

We had a forklift to lift the rear up off the ground and can't seem to get everything to line up. we got the front bolts back in but now can't get the bolts attached towards the bottom of track behind the bogie wheel. the bar the limiter straps attach to.

are you saying you have part of the skid apart like the bar between the rails? if so pull the skid out and make sure skid is still square and level pulling arms or supports form between the rails when skid in in sled is sure to give you a tweaked skid.skid goes in fully assembled

 

[Polarice]

I use a chain hoist. I just raise and lower it till the bolt holes line up. I can take a suspension in and out in less than a half hour.

We used an engine lift last time at my buddy's house. I just don't have that luxury all the time. That works a lot better than a jack.

 

[tubbywolfe]

are you saying you have part of the skid apart like the bar between the rails? if so pull the skid out and make sure skid is still square and level pulling arms or supports form between the rails when skid in in sled is sure to give you a tweaked skid.skid goes in fully assembled

Trying to connect the rear torque arm back to the skid itself.

 

[rp7x]

you make easy things so hard

 

[tubbywolfe]

you make easy things so hard

Disconnected the rear torque arm to have more play to reattach the front suspensing to the tunnel. this was my buddies idea, now it appears we have to re-remove the tunnel bolts=, drop t he front again, reconnect the torque arms and then reconnect the front suspension to tunnel?????

 

[indy_500]

Don't worry, once you do it a few times, it gets tons easier. You find better methods and whatnot. I've removed and reinstalled over 20 skids in my short lifetime.

 

[ezra]

if skid rear arm is not bolted to rails PULL SKID OUT and then install rear arm and make sure skid is still flat and squair.then re read my above post and your skid will be in and running in less than 25min.

 

[rp7x]

frt shaft

did you change the bolt to 3/8"

 

[tubbywolfe]

did you change the bolt to 3/8"

Got everything all back together, go to put chain case cover on and the chain case is not threaded? Will the cover bolts thread themselves or do I have to pull the chain case off again to thread it. ALMOST DONE and thanks for all the input.

 

[rp7x]

rethread

can't you tap them in the sled

 

[ezra]

Got everything all back together, go to put chain case cover on and the chain case is not threaded? Will the cover bolts thread themselves or do I have to pull the chain case off again to thread it. ALMOST DONE and thanks for all the input.

W.T.F! not threaded W.T.F. is doo thinking sending unfinished parts out? I dont think I have gotten any part that was not threaded. I would make the dealer that ordered the part tap them. weather they say parts are not warranted or not you have a minn expectation of a replacement part use ability and that falls way short. Doo should cover the time you have in to it buy reimbursing dealer to tap and fininsh

 

[600etec]

The holes are not threaded because the screws are self tappers. If you look at the tip of the screw(thread end) it looks like a triangle versus completely round. Just start them in with a nut driver or a socket with an extension to start them straight then use you ratchet to put them in the rest of the way. I am unsure of torque spec but I recommend using a 1/4 ratchet to not strip them out. It is only aluminum!