New inline trailer comparison
- Thread starter dusty17
- Start date
indy_500
Well-known member
Prices are also way up. I noticed most Neos and stealths are $1500-2500 higher than years past. I’ve been toying around with the idea of going back to an inline AGAIN now that I have a house suitable for a concrete slab on the side of the garage to store it and I have less garage space at the moment to store my sleds. Only problem is I didn’t have enough time this fall to get it poured so if I got the trailer now it would take up a good portion of the driveway...
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wiharley02
Active member
Don't get too hung up on Scotch-Loks in the wiring, AS LONG AS they are only inside the trailer. If outside/underneath, run. More important when looking at wiring, is how the electric brakes wire leads on the axles are spliced. Should be heat seal/heat shrink connectors with hot melt adhesive at a minimum. Those are pretty good but even those only last so long too. There will always be wiring splices right by the axles, because the axles only come with a short length of wire on the brake magnets and the trailer manufacturer has to connect somehow.
Other pretty important thing to look at for wiring, is how does the trailer manufacturer make the transition from the 7-way plug with the 7-conductor jacketed wire to the trailer wiring? I've seen some trailers that used a 2-gang household style steel electrical box, underneath the trailer/V-Nose! Guess what is inside of that un-sealed box? Regular old splice connectors, not heat sealed. Or even wire nuts! Yikes! Look for the 7-way jacketed wire to go inside the trailer before it goes into a junction box, to get those connections out of the elements. Also, look for the breakaway battery/battery box to be in an accessible and "dry" location, again, not buried up underneath the trailer under the v-nose. Have seen that too.
A tip on the breakaway battery. Most of the time they are forgotten, and will go dead after a year, and won't work if ever called upon (hopefully never needed). Wire in a breakaway battery trickle charger, so when the 7-way is connected to the vehicle and the +12V AUX pin is live, the breakaway battery will stay topped up. Still need to put a battery tender on the breakaway battery in the off-season a time or two if the trailer sits and is only used in winter.
Other pretty important thing to look at for wiring, is how does the trailer manufacturer make the transition from the 7-way plug with the 7-conductor jacketed wire to the trailer wiring? I've seen some trailers that used a 2-gang household style steel electrical box, underneath the trailer/V-Nose! Guess what is inside of that un-sealed box? Regular old splice connectors, not heat sealed. Or even wire nuts! Yikes! Look for the 7-way jacketed wire to go inside the trailer before it goes into a junction box, to get those connections out of the elements. Also, look for the breakaway battery/battery box to be in an accessible and "dry" location, again, not buried up underneath the trailer under the v-nose. Have seen that too.
A tip on the breakaway battery. Most of the time they are forgotten, and will go dead after a year, and won't work if ever called upon (hopefully never needed). Wire in a breakaway battery trickle charger, so when the 7-way is connected to the vehicle and the +12V AUX pin is live, the breakaway battery will stay topped up. Still need to put a battery tender on the breakaway battery in the off-season a time or two if the trailer sits and is only used in winter.
I am on my 2nd RnR and have had great luck. I moved from an inline to a cargo to be able to haul my UTV also, they built it exactly the way I wanted. I sold my 2009 inline for $600 less than I paid for it. I did not have to do any repairs except replacing the brakes in 10 years of use.
I'm not much into trailers but I had an older all-steel 2 place that was simply too heavy...bought a new Formula 7x16 this past winter but really haven't had a chance to use it yet...seems well made...electric brakes, LED lights (inside too), back up lights, tie downs etc...break away battery...and it's 7' tall on inside...FWIW
My new trailer has the wires go into a weather proof Nema 3R box located under the trailer. Why would these connections inside need to be heatshrunk? There is no moisture or elements that can get in due to the enclosure rating. Are you talking about non-weather proof enclosures?
Just bought a 2020 Stealth with a black out package, 7X24+5'V, has bright reverse lights, and my wires go inside the trailer to a box where they are individually hooked to their own stud, also the break away battery box is next to it, it only charges when the truck is plugged in, so if the lights dont come on when I hit the switch I know that battery is dead, just put a trickle charger on it for a day, a full charge has lasted since late July, but also Im not having the inside lights on all the time either. and for what its worth I gave $9500
I did the opposite. I went back to a standard 2 place covered from a 2-3 place Stealth inline. I sold the inline for damn near what I paid for it. I wanted an easier trailer to move around in my storage building.
indy_500
Well-known member
I went from a clamshell 12’ triton to a 23’ stealth inline back to a 12’ clamshell triton and now interested in going back LOL. The inline was a bit of a pain hooking up, moving around, etc but with less garage space I have a bit of a storage problem for all of my sleds at the moment with the new house.
dfattack
Well-known member
I'm speculating but maybe since there could still be condensation inside the NEMA box? I've seen that happen and heat shrinking would be added insurance.
I thought about that also, but I don't think there should be any condensation inside. The interior of the box shouldn't be warmer than the outside, so no condensation should be forming? As long as box is air tight, shouldn't be an issue.
dfattack
Well-known member
In theory yes, but if for example the trailer was kept inside a heated garage overnight then the box would be the current air temp on both the outside and inside. If you then hook up and start out down the road the outside of the box will quickly cool and the inside would eventually get cold as well, condensating in the process.
I'm not an engineer or anything close. Just tossing it out there that it could happen. I'm sure there are smarter people on here that could jump in.
Don't worry, in two months he'll be talking about his new garage. They must pay well up there.
