no me gusta anticongelante

[trailshredder]

Since i'm going to be going that far, I think I'll at least replace the rings, but when I saw $80 for 4 new ones from oem, i immediatly checked aftermarket and found this http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...=&productId=p131285SR&leafCatId=&mmyId=800340 My question is, is it $13 per pair or per ring? If it's $13 per ring, I might Just be ordering that SPI kit for $120

That would be per pair on the cost.

That sled got hot....I would recommend splitting the crank case and checking the seals out.

 

[indy_500]

That would be per pair on the cost.

That sled got hot....I would recommend splitting the crank case and checking the seals out.

But Indy doesn't know how to do that

 

[favoritos]

But Indy doesn't know how to do that

Pull the motor and take it to the shop. Watch and learn if they let you. It is winter and there is snow on the ground. No time for multible rebuilds.

Bummer deal overall though, good luck on getting it back on the snow soon.

 

[Falcon20]

also you kids dont even know about sled repairs.when I was a kid it was non stop repairs before during and after every ride.cant think of very many rides in the 70s with the club or fam that did not require some kind of trail repair.

Ain't that the truth, even the early 80's. How many leafs a season did you re arch on an anvil Ezra? Or beat a belly pan out so you could turn?

 

[doomsman]

Ain't that the truth, even the early 80's. How many leafs a season did you re arch on an anvil Ezra? Or beat a belly pan out so you could turn?

Remember clamping cat rear springs in a vise and slipping a pipe on
to get 3 inches of rear travel.

 

[tyeeman]

No time like the present to learn how to split the crank case, it's really fairly easy. Actually, getting the clutch off and the fly wheel off is half the battle. So if you have a clutch puller and a flywheel puller your almost home free. Besides with all the help available on this site I think we can talk ya through it. Heck, maybe somebody even has a manual for your sled/motor that they can scan and pm to you.
Probably the most important thing is reassembling the engine, using the right sealer in the right places and getting the correct torque specs and using a torque wrench on all nuts and bolts.

 

[indy_500]

Found my culprit to why it's leaking in the first place. Thermostat is bent like you wouldn't believe, which now explains why my sled felt like it was cold at 25 mph but I just ignored it. Being stuck where it is, I think it was building up pressure causing coolant to burst out all the gaskets. I believe I MAY have a big boy crank bearing kit, the PTO side bearing looks HUGE compared to what i've seen before. This engine has definatly been apart. The guy told me he had to put a new oil pump on it so it was probably rebuilt. I noticed loctite on the head bolts, so that gave it away. I may be putting in new pistons, I haven't decided yet. I have all the gaskets right now ($100 for all the gaskets and thermostat, I bought the o-rings for the head 2 months ago and the rest of the o-rings today so I couldn't buy a gasket set). I will probably be replacing the water pump belt too.

Pic 1- PTO intake side piston
Pic 2- PTO exhaust side piston
Pic 3- MAG exhaust side piston
Pic 4- MAG intake side piston
Pic 5- Thermostat

 

[indy_500]

Pic 1- Big bearing (possibly tough boy kit?)
Pic 2- PTO Side Piston Wash
Pic 3- MAG Side Piston Wash
Pic 4- MAG side cylinder (not a single scratch)
Pic 5- PTO side cylinder (not a single scratch)

 

[indy_500]

Pic 1- Cylinders
Pic 2- Head
Pic 3- Engine
Pic 4- Y-Pipe (ghost white, smells terrible like burning antifreeze)

 

[indy_500]

I found a water pump belt for $20 from royal dist. vs. poo $50 belt. Anybody think it'd be a bad idea to get it? a guy on some website recommended royal dist. and he's been replacing his every 1500 miles like polaris says so.

 

[indy_500]

Also what do you guys use for gasket scrapers? Was curious if it's worth getting a specific one. I'll probably be going to sears tomorrow to get a 14 mm crows foot anyways.

 

[indy_500]

$100 worth of rubber right there

 

[dschultz]

Also what do you guys use for gasket scrapers? Was curious if it's worth getting a specific one. I'll probably be going to sears tomorrow to get a 14 mm crows foot anyways.

I use a gasket remover on the angle air grinder which is just basically a scotch brite pad, and I just dont get crazy with it.

 

[trailshredder]

I use a gasket remover on the angle air grinder which is just basically a scotch brite pad, and I just dont get crazy with it.

Yup...die grinder with a scotch brite pad.

 

[dakota]

Indy,

Check your Crank and Rod bearings closely. if it was a leak on the water jacket o-ring on the head you're likely OK. But, if it was getting past the base gasket, it can wash the oil from the crank bearings and make them fail quickly.

 

[indy_500]

Indy,

Check your Crank and Rod bearings closely. if it was a leak on the water jacket o-ring on the head you're likely OK. But, if it was getting past the base gasket, it can wash the oil from the crank bearings and make them fail quickly.

Should I pour some oil on the crank bearings?

 

[indy_500]

Yup...die grinder with a scotch brite pad.

wouldn't it be kind of messy?

 

[indy_500]

I don't see any traces of coolant in the case btw. The bluish green on the pistons is my oil.

 

[ragsled]

careful with the scotch-brite

I try to avoid scotch-brite around engine internals, they remove gasket material and clean nicely, but they also loose small particles of themselves. If you do use them make sure you wash your parts with plenty of warm soapy water. Lots of info on the internet why not to use them on internals.

bob

 

[fish633]

Use a chemical gasket stripper like "chisel" by permatex,spray into glass jar and use a small paint brush to apply to stuck gasket.Make a scraper out of a hardwood dowel,shape the end like a wedge,stuff a clean shop towel in the crankcase to keep debris out.scrape away from the open crank,vacuum all debris away prior to removing the shop towel.Under no circumstance use an abrasive.
The wear pattern on the exhaust suggest the cylinder is worn out of round allowing piston to contact cylinder wall.
Scrapes on piston suggest either carbon from the top or engine ingested something.
Amount of carbon present on piston top suggest poor jetting or bad choice in oils.
You seem to be a pretty industrious kid who wants to learn more about motors.A wealth of information that is fact can be had by researching the volumes of S.A.E. white papers.