Polaris edge 800 tech tips

[kraven700]

Polaris EDGE 800 Tech Tips

I had a 2002 EDGE-X 800 that was EXTREMELY WELL dialed in for a "Stocker" 6400+ MILES RIDDEN, NEVER BURNED IT DOWN, NEVER BROKE.WALKED away from my (3) other buddy's 800's BIG TIME !!


BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

HOLTZMANN ATAAC FUEL COMPENSATOR, spot on jetting ALL the time $ 245.00 from www.holtzmannengineering.com mileage increased from 10.5 m.p.g. to approx 13 m.p.g. noticeably more responsive on bottom end and mid-range.

SLP HI-Comp heads, for use with 91 octane ($330) improved bottom end & mid-range GRUNT!!

STUDS: I ran (168) WOODY's Megabite square tip studs in the track, traction is where it's at, all the power/clutching in the world is useless if you're not coupled to the ground.



almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

3) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
a) 66 gram stock weights, OR
b) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's

4) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.



SECONDARY

Button Secondary

1) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

2) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring with R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)

3) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each


Roller Secondary TSS-98 or TSS-04

1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

2) Helix 70-42.46 duration SLP part # 50-90

3) Secondary spring 140/200 Red/Dark Blue SLP part # 50-4


The old style button clutch was faster on top end



BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset, center to center, and check for engine "crooked"), mine and my bud's were off!!!! You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket(s) to get it perfect. Use thin Chevrolet style starter shims available @ Auto Parts stores under the “HELP” brand.

2) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the #3211087 belt, it's a CLOSE TOLERANCE version of the #3211080


ENGINE LIMITERS

1) SLP push engine limiter MAG side ($47.95) SLP part # 23-50 (E-Z 20 minute installation, only one hole to drill into your aluminum bulkhead)

2) WMS Engine torque arm, P.T.O. side, in front of the engine. ($82.95) sold also by SLP part #23-53 (E-Z bolt-on installation, no holes to drill)


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think)

1) Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Make sure you have EXACTLY 5.0 VOLTS FOR TESTING PURPOSES. Don't overlook this! Look at the PRO-X section @ the top, there's a "sticky". All the info is there.

2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers

3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.




CHAIN-CASE and GEARS and CHAIN TENSION

1), Stock factory gearing is 25/40, change the bottom gear to (41), same 76 pitch chain still fits, less of a dog leg, acceleration improves a little, no loss in top end.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from auto cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"


EXHAUST VALVES

1) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

2) The original exhaust valves are aluminum, which were prone to failure and severe engine damage could result. Then they went to titanium, and the latest and greatest are Stainless Steel, identifiable by the heavier weight and "relief cut outs"

3) The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.

4) POLARIS part # 2202838 (order two kits) includes stainless valve, orange bellow, and 1 exhaust spring, it's only enough parts for one cylinder


WATER PUMP BELT:

Water pump belts on these can be purchased @ NAPA auto parts stores.
GATES POWER-GRIP Part # 5mr450-09 for $10.50... Polaris wants over $45.00 for theirs.
The Gates unit appears to be of better quality as well.
Change it at the start of every season, great $10.00 insurance plan.
Check those water pump bearings when your in there as well.
Believe it or not the SLP pull-start rope will not break & actually makes starting these 800's easier (without the comp release)
(Thanks to RMK 4ever for this helpful tip)


OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 stock, 55:1 to 60: 1 is better.

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.



COLD START TIP

On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.



SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



DEBATABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign

3) Boost bottles

4) 8" rear wheels

5) Anti-ratchet drive wheels


HAVE A GREAT SEASON!!!!!!!!!

PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (TECH TIPS THREAD Pinned at the top of the XC section)

 

[kraven700]

I had a 2002 EDGE-X 800 that was EXTREMELY WELL dialed in for a "Stocker" 6400+ MILES RIDDEN, NEVER BURNED IT DOWN, NEVER BROKE.WALKED away from my (3) other buddy's 800's BIG TIME !!


BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

HOLTZMANN ATAAC FUEL COMPENSATOR, spot on jetting ALL the time $ 245.00 from www.holtzmannengineering.com mileage increased from 10.5 m.p.g. to approx 13 m.p.g. noticeably more responsive on bottom end and mid-range.

SLP HI-Comp heads, for use with 91 octane ($330) improved bottom end & mid-range GRUNT!!

STUDS: I ran (168) WOODY's Megabite square tip studs in the track, traction is where it's at, all the power/clutching in the world is useless if you're not coupled to the ground.



almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

3) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
a) 66 gram stock weights, OR
b) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's

4) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.



SECONDARY

Button Secondary

1) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

2) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring with R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)

3) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each


Roller Secondary TSS-98 or TSS-04

1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

2) Helix 70-42.46 duration SLP part # 50-90

3) Secondary spring 140/200 Red/Dark Blue SLP part # 50-4


The old style button clutch was faster on top end



BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset, center to center, and check for engine "crooked"), mine and my bud's were off!!!! You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket(s) to get it perfect. Use thin Chevrolet style starter shims available @ Auto Parts stores under the “HELP” brand.

2) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the #3211087 belt, it's a CLOSE TOLERANCE version of the #3211080


ENGINE LIMITERS

1) SLP push engine limiter MAG side ($47.95) SLP part # 23-50 (E-Z 20 minute installation, only one hole to drill into your aluminum bulkhead)

2) WMS Engine torque arm, P.T.O. side, in front of the engine. ($82.95) sold also by SLP part #23-53 (E-Z bolt-on installation, no holes to drill)


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think)

1) Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Make sure you have EXACTLY 5.0 VOLTS FOR TESTING PURPOSES. Don't overlook this! Look at the PRO-X section @ the top, there's a "sticky". All the info is there.

2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers

3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.




CHAIN-CASE and GEARS and CHAIN TENSION

1), Stock factory gearing is 25/40, change the bottom gear to (41), same 76 pitch chain still fits, less of a dog leg, acceleration improves a little, no loss in top end.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from auto cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"


EXHAUST VALVES

1) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

2) The original exhaust valves are aluminum, which were prone to failure and severe engine damage could result. Then they went to titanium, and the latest and greatest are Stainless Steel, identifiable by the heavier weight and "relief cut outs"

3) The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.

4) POLARIS part # 2202838 (order two kits) includes stainless valve, orange bellow, and 1 exhaust spring, it's only enough parts for one cylinder



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 stock, 55:1 to 60: 1 is better.

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.



COLD START TIP

On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.



SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis



DEBATABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign

3) Boost bottles

4) 8" rear wheels

5) Anti-ratchet drive wheels


HAVE A GREAT SEASON!!!!!!!!!

PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (TECH TIPS THREAD Pinned at the top of the XC section)

ttt

 

[kraven700]

ttt

ttt

 

[prowrench]

You know I did almost all that stuff to my 03 800, and i have an SLP single pipe and silencer. Don't have the holtzman, but changed to the 02 needles and 500 mains. Jetting is near perfect. Funny thing is, my buddies 03 bone stock untouched 800 is quicker all the way through. Mine is a prox and his is an xc, so I have the team, which I've always heard is slower. I outweigh him by 50lbs also, but still seems kind of strange. I've checked the tps, but haven't checked the timing. That's my next thing to do. Just a big pain in the arse to adjust on a prox cuz you have to pull the engine.

 

[kraven700]

You know I did almost all that stuff to my 03 800, and i have an SLP single pipe and silencer. Don't have the holtzman, but changed to the 02 needles and 500 mains. Jetting is near perfect. Funny thing is, my buddies 03 bone stock untouched 800 is quicker all the way through. Mine is a prox and his is an xc, so I have the team, which I've always heard is slower. I outweigh him by 50lbs also, but still seems kind of strange. I've checked the tps, but haven't checked the timing. That's my next thing to do. Just a big pain in the arse to adjust on a prox cuz you have to pull the engine.

If a stock '03 is runnin by you, clutching is probably off. Try marking it with a black marker and see how high the belt rides up.

If you don't have P.E.R.C. run the button clutch, I/M/O.

The TSS-04 is DEFINITELY S-L-O-W-E-R on top end. I took the button off, replaced it with the Roller and tested it back to back.

Even with the Roller, my sled would run away from my bud's 2003 800 (all stock, just engine alignment + Holtzman) and my other bud's 2002 800 (V-FORCE, SLP Head, )

Did you change to the larger 50 pilots that the '02 has?

03's had 40's I believe, also had that "deficient" air-box with staggered jetting.

Did you have the CDI update done????

 

[prowrench]

I did not change the pilot jets. Running gutted airbox, #3 clip +.020 shim. I've checked plugs midrange, 3/4, and WOT. All good. Starts good, idles good, all that. I think it is a clutching issue as well. Have 10-66's in there now with slp blue/yellow spring, only getting 78-7900. I think I may have to try 64's to get the pipe to work. I do have the perc, with the above mentioned helix. Engine only has about 1500 miles on it since the broken crank incident. Love the sled, just want it to run like it should. Oh, and the cdi update has been done.
I think I set the tps at 4.9, if I remember correctly, as that was the number I found somewhere at the time.
As a side note, my buddies 800 was about side by side with my last 800 prox with twin pipes and Doug Flannery trail port. I wonder if he just has one of those factory freaks. I just haven't raced many other sleds, the latest was an 09 yam nytro, which I beat easily. Thanks for any advice.

 

[kraven700]

I did not change the pilot jets. Running gutted airbox, #3 clip +.020 shim. I've checked plugs midrange, 3/4, and WOT. All good. Starts good, idles good, all that. I think it is a clutching issue as well. Have 10-66's in there now with slp blue/yellow spring, only getting 78-7900. I think I may have to try 64's to get the pipe to work. I do have the perc, with the above mentioned helix. Engine only has about 1500 miles on it since the broken crank incident. Love the sled, just want it to run like it should. Oh, and the cdi update has been done.
I think I set the tps at 4.9, if I remember correctly, as that was the number I found somewhere at the time.
As a side note, my buddies 800 was about side by side with my last 800 prox with twin pipes and Doug Flannery trail port. I wonder if he just has one of those factory freaks. I just haven't raced many other sleds, the latest was an 09 yam nytro, which I beat easily. Thanks for any advice.

T.P.S. should be set at 4.0-4.1 VOLTS at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE on the carbed sleds

I run my own personal selds at 4.3 volts, but I'm NOT suggesting that anyone do this, as it increases the timing advance and increases the chance of detonation.

BTW, did you ever mark the clutch?

Also, the 68 MTX's w/3 + 3 grams definitely pulled harder in the mid-range than the
10-66's.

Did you measure the belt to sheave clearance?

.015" +/- a little with a new belt is CRITICAL for performance!

 

[prowrench]

Haven't had the chance to mark the clutch yet, really no place to run it here at home.
I know my belt clearance is a lot more than .015, I need to get a spider tool to fix that, and was planning on sending it out for balance this spring as well.
I'll have to recheck my tps, just don't remeber for sure where it's set. Luckily I know what detonation sounds like.

 

[kraven700]

Haven't had the chance to mark the clutch yet, really no place to run it here at home.
I know my belt clearance is a lot more than .015, I need to get a spider tool to fix that, and was planning on sending it out for balance this spring as well.
I'll have to recheck my tps, just don't remeber for sure where it's set. Luckily I know what detonation sounds like.

FYI, XCR1250, Don on hardcoresledder is in Northern Wisc, and he'll set BOTH the belt to sheave + balancing for you, all for approx $25 +/-, you can just ship your primary to him.

Typically the STOCK clearance is .070" and more, which hurts performance significantly

Also, please keep in mind that if you change weights from let's say a 10 series POLARIS to an MTX, (taller shoulder height) that reduces the belt to sheave a bunch, so you want to decide on which STYLE of weight you're going to stick with prior to setting re-setting the belt to sheave.

 

[prowrench]

Well I guess it depends on the REAL best style of weight. Of course I've heard it all, not sure what to think about it. I am of the understanding that the best performance out of the pipe will come in at 8000-8100, and it's not pulling that now with the 10-66, so I need to go lighter, not heavier with the 68 mtx right? I definitely don't claim to be any sort of clutch master, but I've sure tried a lot of things over time. Definitely not satisfied with the way it is.
By the way, if it helps, I ride powder and trails both, don't care at all about top speed, just like 0-80 performance to be impressive.

 

[kraven700]

Well I guess it depends on the REAL best style of weight. Of course I've heard it all, not sure what to think about it. I am of the understanding that the best performance out of the pipe will come in at 8000-8100, and it's not pulling that now with the 10-66, so I need to go lighter, not heavier with the 68 mtx right? I definitely don't claim to be any sort of clutch master, but I've sure tried a lot of things over time. Definitely not satisfied with the way it is.
By the way, if it helps, I ride powder and trails both, don't care at all about top speed, just like 0-80 performance to be impressive.

The MTX weights are a different animal as there's more weight closer to the heel compared to a 10 or 11 series POLARIS weight.

Conversion factor:

POLARIS weight + 4 grams = MTX

So a 64 gram POLARIS = 68 Gram MTX, then you can add 1,2, or 3 grams in the middle, + 1,2,3, grams in the tip.

Mt STOCK piped 800 used the 68 Grams MTX's with 3+3 GRAMS, BOTH mid+tip.

BOTTOM line, if you're not pulling the STOCK 10-66's, there's something else to look at.

HOT FAT is that jetting? Are you sure you can't go LEANER.

I ran 480 MAINS IN MY 2002 800 WITH THE SLP head, V-Force, etc even in minus 10 weather.

 

[likinit2]

"If a stock '03 is runnin by you, clutching is probably off. Try marking it with a black marker and see how high the belt rides up.

If you don't have P.E.R.C. run the button clutch, I/M/O.

The TSS-04 is DEFINITELY S-L-O-W-E-R on top end. I took the button off, replaced it with the Roller and tested it back to back."

I will agree the tss-04 is slower if the only thing you do is swap clutches. However, if you gear down and follow up with a Primary clutch spring with a softer shift out such as an almond gold. The top speed comes back (115+mph on speedo) it is all around better back shift and performance. This works pretty good with the stock helix. (This is a 2003 SKS with a 144X1.25)

I also had Timing issues with 2 out of 3 of the 2003 800's I have had. So don't be shy to pull the motor out of that Pro-X. The 03 I had first would start hard and just wouldn't perform. I bought another one just like it that would literally smoke it so I started swapping parts. Nothing worked! I finally bought a real nice flywheel puller and did a timing advance. It was like getting a brand new sled!

 

[prowrench]

I'll recheck the jetting to make sure.

Not afraid to pull the engine, done it many times, I can just see a big pain trying to adjust a degree or two and having to pull it multiple times.
BTW, it starts fine and runs fine, just seems a bit down on power for where it should be.

 

[kraven700]

"If a stock '03 is runnin by you, clutching is probably off. Try marking it with a black marker and see how high the belt rides up.

If you don't have P.E.R.C. run the button clutch, I/M/O.

The TSS-04 is DEFINITELY S-L-O-W-E-R on top end. I took the button off, replaced it with the Roller and tested it back to back."

I will agree the tss-04 is slower if the only thing you do is swap clutches. However, if you gear down and follow up with a Primary clutch spring with a softer shift out such as an almond gold. The top speed comes back (115+mph on speedo) it is all around better back shift and performance. This works pretty good with the stock helix. (This is a 2003 SKS with a 144X1.25)

I also had Timing issues with 2 out of 3 of the 2003 800's I have had. So don't be shy to pull the motor out of that Pro-X. The 03 I had first would start hard and just wouldn't perform. I bought another one just like it that would literally smoke it so I started swapping parts. Nothing worked! I finally bought a real nice flywheel puller and did a timing advance. It was like getting a brand new sled!

Likinit,

That's interesting, I never found the timing to be off by more than a degree or so.

How many degrees off was that engine?

Did you slot the stator holes or use an offset flywheel key to correct it?

 

[likinit2]

The stator already has slots in it. I turned it counter clockwise as far as I could and still get the screws in. So I have no idea where I am at, from what I can tell is that a timing light and marks on the flywheel are worthless. When I raced Dirtbikes and gokarts I always set it by mm btdc with an ohmeter on the trigger. It really helped, I was able to go from 10-62's to 10-66's with no other changes.

 

[kraven700]

The stator already has slots in it. I turned it counter clockwise as far as I could and still get the screws in. So I have no idea where I am at, from what I can tell is that a timing light and marks on the flywheel are worthless. When I raced Dirtbikes and gokarts I always set it by mm btdc with an ohmeter on the trigger. It really helped, I was able to go from 10-62's to 10-66's with no other changes.

And with the timing in "FULL ADVANCE" mode, and you're saying "You have no idea as to where the timing is at"

1) What fuel are you runnin' and

2) Are you trail riding and

3) Aren't you concerned in the least bit about detonation?

 

[likinit2]

And with the timing in "FULL ADVANCE" mode, and you're saying "You have no idea as to where the timing is at"

1) What fuel are you runnin' and

2) Are you trail riding and

3) Aren't you concerned in the least bit about detonation?

1) Pump Premium

2) Trail at ~1000 ft and Mountain on/off trail in the Snowies 9000+ ft

3) No, not concerned about deto. I know what it looks and sounds like
and after 10,000 miles with this setup, I'm good!

I admit I didn't go about advancing the timing correctly. I am just stating what worked to get 2 out of the three 800's (all 2003's) up to par. The only thing I knew at the time is that
the 800 that ran the best, never had any over heating or bogging issues and had a crisp sound to the exhaust and also started the easiest even though the timing was advanced so far that you could feel it try to pull the rope out of your hand if you didn't give it a good authoritive tug on the rope. So with all three supposedly being created equal the fact was this was the only difference. So while changing my waterpump belt I just went for it. Been riding it that way for 10,000 miles now and I am still on the original stock crank. replaced pistons at 8000 miles and they looked perfect.

 

[kraven700]

1) Pump Premium

2) Trail at ~1000 ft and Mountain on/off trail in the Snowies 9000+ ft

3) No, not concerned about deto. I know what it looks and sounds like
and after 10,000 miles with this setup, I'm good!

I admit I didn't go about advancing the timing correctly. I am just stating what worked to get 2 out of the three 800's (all 2003's) up to par. The only thing I knew at the time is that
the 800 that ran the best, never had any over heating or bogging issues and had a crisp sound to the exhaust and also started the easiest even though the timing was advanced so far that you could feel it try to pull the rope out of your hand if you didn't give it a good authoritive tug on the rope. So with all three supposedly being created equal the fact was this was the only difference. So while changing my waterpump belt I just went for it. Been riding it that way for 10,000 miles now and I am still on the original stock crank. replaced pistons at 8000 miles and they looked perfect.

I do agree that as a GENERAL rule, advancing the timing results in better acceleration UNLESS it detonates.

Handing out advice on a trail riding forum like "advancing the timing as far as it will go" is a recipe for burnt pistons, let's leave that for the weekend racers.

That being said, I recommend verifying the STOCK timing and re-adjust only to get it within specs, for trail riding on pump gas.

 

[prowrench]

Just got back from seney with ANOTHER broken 800. Exhaust side of PTO side piston is destroyed. Haven't done anything other than pull the power valve to take a look. Top of piston looks fine. Other hole is fine all the way around. Don't know what happened this time. Man, I checked plugs MANY times this weekend, just confirming their fatness at the top end, but midrange looked fine. That morning I picked the needles up another .020", just to be safe. This was a midrange cruise, not even wfo. Getting a little tired of the every-other-year meltdown/broken crank situation. May be time for a new one. Hadn't even got around to messing with the timing yet.

 

[likinit2]

Just got back from seney with ANOTHER broken 800. Exhaust side of PTO side piston is destroyed. Haven't done anything other than pull the power valve to take a look. Top of piston looks fine. Other hole is fine all the way around. Don't know what happened this time. Man, I checked plugs MANY times this weekend, just confirming their fatness at the top end, but midrange looked fine. That morning I picked the needles up another .020", just to be safe. This was a midrange cruise, not even wfo. Getting a little tired of the every-other-year meltdown/broken crank situation. May be time for a new one. Hadn't even got around to messing with the timing yet.

A friend with an 05 800 that was running lean in one cylinder because someone over tightened the fuel screw which seated the point into the carb and stayed there after backing it out. it would detonate in the midrange real bad and knock the rings off on the exhaust side and top of piston. (it even broke the crank as well at one point)Other wise the plugs looked fine and he never knew what I was talking about when I told him it was knocking pretty bad and wasn't performing quite up to par. You can take a look at you fuel screws and see if one is slightly rounded. They should both come to a fine sharp point. Kraven is right about not just advancing the timing the way I did. I still believe they had a bunch of flywheels that were mis keyed so it was a hit or miss on whether the 03 and 04 800's performed. I was just saying what worked for me even after I took it back to the dealer to have it checked only to tell me it was fine and they changed the jets and did an update to the cdi. (didn't friggin work!)Anyway enough rambling here, if you want some help with it this summer, Kalamazoo isn't that far away.....