i have a 2006 polaris fusion 900, this is my second one had a 2005 and it did the same thing. the problem i have is that when riding with some of my relitves that go extremly slow my sled over heats. traveling at 18-25 mph really doesn't cool it that well with kicking snow up. so my question is what can i do with coolant to make engine cooler? is there an additive, i see they make engine ice for motorcycles will that be good to use? i have never had any other problems at all with either of them since i got my first one in 2004. now i just ride on sideof trail to kick up some loose snow and i stop now and again and throw snow on runnig boards to cool coolant. dont want to have hot long rides bad enough going 18 mph behind the relatives
polaris fusion issue
- Thread starter szotty
- Start date
I also have a 2006 fusion 900 and have never had an overheating issue. maybe something is wrong with the heat exchanger or the temp sensor? This is a common problem apparently for some people, so SLP makes a vent kit specifically for the 900 to help cool the engine and the clutch/belt. take a look into those and see what might help you. some refer to it as the "hot air elimination kit"
SLP Hot Air Elimination™ Kits help reduce stagnant underhood hot air to maintain higher horsepower by delivering additional cold air intake and hot air escape from the chassis. The kit for the left side helps to keep the clutches running cool, which considerably reduces the chance for performance loss due to heat saturation and improves belt life. The kit for the right side helps to reduce underhood heat given off by the exhaust system for a more consistent running engine. Vents utilize a powder snow pre-filter that repels snow and water, yet allows air to pass right through. These vents are sold in kits for the right or left side or as individual components by special request. Each kit contains one air inlet grate, one outlet grate, required fasteners and detailed instructions.
Kit Contents:
Left Side: Belly Pan Vent, Side Panel Vent, Pre-Filter Backing Shield and Installation Hardware
Right Side: Belly Pan Vent, Side Panel Vent, Pre-Filter Backing Shield and Installation Hardware
Note: Vents can be purchased individually, please inquire.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=692
SLP Hot Air Elimination™ Kits help reduce stagnant underhood hot air to maintain higher horsepower by delivering additional cold air intake and hot air escape from the chassis. The kit for the left side helps to keep the clutches running cool, which considerably reduces the chance for performance loss due to heat saturation and improves belt life. The kit for the right side helps to reduce underhood heat given off by the exhaust system for a more consistent running engine. Vents utilize a powder snow pre-filter that repels snow and water, yet allows air to pass right through. These vents are sold in kits for the right or left side or as individual components by special request. Each kit contains one air inlet grate, one outlet grate, required fasteners and detailed instructions.
Kit Contents:
Left Side: Belly Pan Vent, Side Panel Vent, Pre-Filter Backing Shield and Installation Hardware
Right Side: Belly Pan Vent, Side Panel Vent, Pre-Filter Backing Shield and Installation Hardware
Note: Vents can be purchased individually, please inquire.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=692
indy_500
Well-known member
Or you could do the redneck air elimination kit indy has in mind. Cut some circles or squares out of your belly pan, get some window screen, paint it whatever color, and rivet it on (or bolt) I've been thinking about doing it to mine but i'm sure it wouldn't work well for re-sale unlike stickers, which can just be ripped off...
have them hot air elimators already and yes made em. exactally like slp ones for 28 bucks. i bought special metal that has 1/8 hole drilled all over and sewed outerwears universal sheet for airfilters on it and now water or snow no matter how fine will never get in. also have cold air intake / pod filter type with smaller belt cover so more air moves in chassis, v-force rad vavles, slp exhaust can, i also got 192 studs in track so that should help little bit with kicking up snow to exchanger. can figure out if i ride at 30-35 its fine think has to be some kinda a special coolant additive or coolant it self.
700classic
New member
Royal Purple makes an additive for coolant. Never used it but have seen it at local chain auto part stores ( Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc.) Suppose to lower running temps.
Seems like I read somewhere about making sure the system is "burped" real good...
as far as additive use water wetter...it is pink and can find it in auto part stores...started useing it years ago in my diesel trucks...lowers the operating temp a good 15 deg...bought my better half a blizzard a couple of years ago and had it get pretty warm on low snow conditions so I added that and didn't have that problem anymore..then I put ice scratchers on it just to be double safe...slidkecks are the name I believe. They are made of cable instead of hard wire that way you can leave them down when backing up...plus they have replacable tips for when they start getting wore down...she liked them so much I put a set on my Attak also...good investment for around $60..
as far as additive use water wetter...it is pink and can find it in auto part stores...started useing it years ago in my diesel trucks...lowers the operating temp a good 15 deg...bought my better half a blizzard a couple of years ago and had it get pretty warm on low snow conditions so I added that and didn't have that problem anymore..then I put ice scratchers on it just to be double safe...slidkecks are the name I believe. They are made of cable instead of hard wire that way you can leave them down when backing up...plus they have replacable tips for when they start getting wore down...she liked them so much I put a set on my Attak also...good investment for around $60..
X 3 scratchers. Will keep the sled 30 degrees cooler all the time. Any of the standard ones will work, but they do bend if you forget them down and back up. so watch out. I bought the slidekicks, which are made of aircraft cable, and are flexible enough not to break when you back up with them, but stiff enough to kick up snow. they are more expensive ($70), the others are about $20 and do a great job too.
Crawford Sledder
New member
Gotta go faster, it kicks up alot more snow which ends up on the coolers and speed creates more airflow and coolant flow contributing to a cooler running machine, scratchers are a good idea also.
flying_low
New member
Some of your issue is also related to the way Polaris set up the coolant system on the Fusions. The coolant system has two loops. The one runs through the radiator the other loop runs through the running boards and cooler. The problem is running slow neither loop cools sufficiently because not enough air is going through the radiator and not enough snow is getting thrown on the cooler. The system can simply be modified to run them in series vs. parallel. Running the cooling system in series helps keep the sled cooler.
winter_time
New member
i would go with the slidekicks reverse compatible scratchers we have them on a switchback and an rmk. the valley sno drifters snowmobile club also uses them on there snowombiles which are used for pulling a 4ft wide groomer drag and the sleds really dont go over 10mph and the scratchers work great