Pole barn buildings

[jjlrrw]

I have a 24x40 pole barn, thinking about using 7/16 OSB on the walls and ceiling then blowing insulation.

One area I don't fully understand is the ceiling. the trusses are the "Fink" style a "W" between the the lower 2x4 and the upper 2x4's. The trusses 4/12, run the 24' span and are on 4' center.

I don't feel there is enough area to attach the OSB to the trusses with a 4' center without adding more nailers. I was thinking of...

1) running 2x4's under the trusses the length of the barn 40' every two foot then attach the OSB to the 2x4's, using the 2x4's like furring strips.
2) placing 2x4's between the trusses every 2' so the 3.5" width of the 2x4 is vertical like the trusses.

Other options?

The other concern is the extra added weight, using 2x4's, OSB and insulation it's adding ~3.5 # per sq foot.

 

[mezz]

I would definitely add the 2x4, however, I would recommend on 16" centers. Tying the truss bottom cords together will actually add strength to the trusses. As far as the OSB is concerned for the ceiling, why not use drywall? If supported on 16" would be more than adequate to hold insulation without causing any issues with bowing due to weight of insulation. Another thought to consider is the ventilation in the attic space, do you have a ridge vent or gable end vents? If not you may want to, you want to be able to get that trapped air out.-Mezz

 

[eao]

Will the bldg side walls be able to support the added weight? Do the truss's have knee bracing? Are the truss's notched into the side poles for support?

I would consult with a engineer before proceeding.

 

[jjlrrw]

Reason for OSB over drywall was durability, I have ridge vent and soffit vent.

I don't think the trusses have knee braces, I assume these are braces from the truss to the side wall? The trusses sit on top of 2x8's or 2x10's that run the length of the barn the 2x's tie into the pole beams every 8'

 

[chop]

You might want to call the building mfg. and inquire if the building you have had a finished ceiling option. Many of them keep records of building sold so they could probably provide you with a quote for adding the corrugated steel ceiling and insulation. Whether you just get the materials from them or have them coordinate the install is up to you.

The nice thing about going this route is that it is already "engineered" for your structure, so no guessing. You will probably have to add far less support.

The building currently I lease for my business has the steel ceiling and osb walls. From my experience the steel is alot easier to clean and doesnt get as dirty as osb.

My least favorite is drywall- my last shop space was all drywall and it was a pain.

My first shop had plywood up 8' on the wall and then steel to the ceiling and on the ceiling. That was by far my favorite combo. I could hang things on the walls easily and they were durable and then the steel was always clean and bright.

 

[eao]

Yes, knee bracing ties the bottom and top cord of the truss to the side pole.

Unless specifically ordered otherwise, pole building trusses are NOT designed to support the weight of anything other than their own weight, necessary bracing and minimal weight from wiring and lighting. While it is possible the trusses could have been designed to support weights beyond these, it would not be safe to assume they can.

What grade lumber are the truss's made from? Mine are No. 2 Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) fan truss (30 ft span) , "SYP" stamped on the truss.

 

[elf]

When I finished off my pole building I called the builder and asked if it could support the weight first. Once he said yes I put 2x4's on 36" centers on the bottom of the trusses. My trusses were on 6' centers. I then used steel for the ceiling material and blew insulation in on top of that. While its held up fine if was to do it again I might put joist hangers on the joists and place my 2x4's on edge between the joists instead of flat on the bottom. For the walls I just ran 2x4 stringers on the horizontally on the poles every 30", put insulation in behind that, and then used steel for the interior walls also. Use white steel as it really brightens it up.
I also removed 2 knee braces with the blessing of the builder, he said the steel and framing would make up for it.

 

[scott_l]

before you finish your walls or ceiling do you have enough outlets already installed, how about lighting it there enough. Ever want running water out there? Think long and hard now before you do the finishing work. Another though you might want to make a corner of the ceiling removable incase you ever need/want to get up in the attic, or even possibly add one of those pull down ladders. Good luck!

I do agree call the manufacture/builder of the pole barn and ask them if there is a "proper way" or any concerns. Phone calls are cheap!

 

[jjlrrw]

before you finish your walls or ceiling do you have enough outlets already installed, how about lighting it there enough. Ever want running water out there? Think long and hard now before you do the finishing work. Another though you might want to make a corner of the ceiling removable incase you ever need/want to get up in the attic, or even possibly add one of those pull down ladders. Good luck!

I do agree call the manufacture/builder of the pole barn and ask them if there is a "proper way" or any concerns. Phone calls are cheap!

Thanks for the heads up, I have over kill on outlets about 20 down the sides and the ends, also added two in the ceiling for garage door openers or if I ever want to add ceiling fans. Also 20 lights, no water did consider it and would need to drill hole in cement either way so no more work down the road. Was planning to have a 2'x4' panel in the ceiling placed with a latch and hinges for access.

No idea who the manufacture of the building is we have lived there 20 years, used it for wood storage the first 17 years then hooked up to NG, so two years ago put in a floor new doors and now wanting to get it insulated as you can't really use it in the summer way too hot and too cold in the winter.

I have found some designs that account for ceilings and they are using the same trusses so with some additional support I shiuld be good but will continue looking and asking. To get an engineer out I am looking at $450 and 1/2 day as they seem to have a schedule like the cable guy between 8 and noon.

 

[jjlrrw]

Was able to find a local building supply company and they had a program where we were able to punch in the dimensions, type of construction, truss etc. The program spit out 10# per square foot of dead weight on the bottom chord if I blow 12" for an R38 value I am about 3.35# sq foot.