I own a Yamaha 06 Vector and the entire engine looks like it could use a good cleaning. Is it safe to power wash the entire sled including the engine? Also after trailering to upper Wi and a week of riding, some of the metal looks like it needs a good washing and then coat with something to prevent rust and scale. Any thoughts?
Power Wash Engine
- Thread starter Reb-1
- Start date
polarisrider1
New member
do not spray engine with oven cleaner. done that and not good. As long as you don't fill airbox with water and make sure you don't blast your wiring off the motor your fine. Some say have the motor running when you spray it. Myself the steam makes it hard to see things when washing. I power wash the motor down then start it up right after and bring motor to warm up temp. helps to prevent water from freezing in the nooks and crannies.
Will it run any better if you power wash the engine? ....no. Can you force water into electrical harnesses?....yes. Can you wipe the engine down with a water/detergent solution & hand rinse?....yes. Can you take clutches off & wash in dishwasher?...yes. If I was was going to power wash a sled engine it would be in the heat of summer only & you would need to start to bake out engine moisture. In the end up to you more of a feel good thing for yourself. I never ever powerwash a automobile engine nothing but risk to do it.
D
Deleted member 10829
Guest
I always coat everything that can rust really good with WD-40.
BTW, welcome to posting, I see this was your first!
BTW, welcome to posting, I see this was your first!
polarismike
Member
I would hand wash and rinse only. Blow out small areas with compressed air and blow gun. An engine degreaser like simple green and car wash soap will work. Stay away from things like starter with direct water pressure. Yamaha makes a nice silicone protectant in a spray can that works well for stopping corrosion on metal. Best thing is a full body cover that hooks under the skis if you are doing the open trailer thing. If you are open trailering without a cover nothing you can do to protect metal and wiring. I would never open trailer without a cover.
gmansnopro
New member
rp7x has his "mother" and little buddy "Lloyd" detail his sled more than he changes his underwear. don't let him kid your.lol creamy dark snips..........
so when u blow the bottom end and have to pull the motor and drive it 2 hrs u don't have to wash the oil off your hands and risk a dirty steering wheel.
I for 1 wont work on buds crap with oil and crap caked on I cant stand a heavy neglected sled.
nothing worse than some guy hauling his neglected pile of crap up on a trip. then more times than not it breaks. now u are in the woods elbow deep in grease just trying to get the pos running to get back to the room so the rest of the crew can go back out and have fun.
like stated above some one lifts hood on a dirty pos I will pull out a strap if neat and tidy I will dig in help get it rolling with out hesitation.
guys I know who own shops say they always do better work on a obviously maintained toy than the neglected dirty pos.
just way nicer working on something clean.
I have used a pressure washer selectively under the hood. spray under hood with some sort of engine degrease then usually get under y pipe joint then belly pans and a quick rinse from a distance.
mjkaliszak
New member
X2 wd 40 , wipe off dust in fall.
Pull in into the street and spray the areas that need to be cleaned with brake cleaner. It will evaporate. I wouldn't power wash a sled but I do power wash my truck from a distance with the engine running. wouldn't power wash anything on the top end. Too many electical components.
As far as trailering, After you load it, open the hood, and cover everything with a towel or garbage bag.
The WD-40 is a good idea, too.
Dave
As far as trailering, After you load it, open the hood, and cover everything with a towel or garbage bag.
The WD-40 is a good idea, too.
Dave
steve_in_il
Member
I have power washed EVERYthing mechanical that I have owned for years....cars...sleds...ATVs... NOT ONE issue from the procedure. With my sled, I remove as much as I can (airbox, battery,side panels) and am careful to make SURE water isn't able to be sprayed into open breather tubes or carbs. I also completely dry things out by running the engine and spinning both the primary and secondary, taking a leaf blower and/or air hose to make sure water is out of nooks and crannys....by the way, I am doing this in a warm heated garage or outside on a warm spring day. Liberal use of WD-40 keeps corrosion away...just be sure to clean your clutches and brake assembly in the fall. With new sleds costing $7,000 to $14,000 I prefer to take care of my investment and agree with ezra and halfpint that shop mechanics appreciate working on a clean sled...not to mention that a clean and well maintained sled will bring a lot more money at trade-in time. My 2006 Attak was purchased new for around $10,500...ridden for 13,000 miles over six years...and traded in for $5,000 in the fall of 2011 on a new 2012. Oh, the sled sat on the dealers lot for about 8 hours before it sold. 
D
Deleted member 10829
Guest
I know rp7x was joking as his sleds are as clean as you will ever find! This was his prior sled and in this picture it had 6,800 miles on it. You could eat off the belly pan ezra.
