Ski Doo Clutches

russholio

Well-known member
I'm no clutch expert, but having done it a couple times I'd have to say no. The whole operation is not difficult, but removing it from the crank is the easiest part!
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Yes you can remove half of it and clean it and leave the stationary sheave on the crank. Doo clutches are craaaazy LOL
 

longtrack

Member
You get someone who has a puller and knows what they are doing to pull the Clutch off and take it apart. Then you will know how to do it the proper way. If you don't want to learn how to disassemble it, spray a Pressure Washer inside of it as its running.

The outside half does separate from the inside half. Usually that is done after the complete Cutch is removed and the Puller is used as the Tool to knock them apart. Then you need the Retainers to hold the Buttons together to separate the Pieces on the outside half.

Everything must be reassembled in the same position it was taken apart. There is a place called C&T on Doo talk where you can buy Clutch Tools. Then buy a Service Manual CD off Ebay.
 

renegade

Active member
Doo clutches can be split on the shaft. There are arrows and marks to line up when putting it back together. Not rocket science. Once you get the sheave off, then the inside of the sheave slides out, but nice and easy. I assume you won't have the tool to hold the buttons in so try to do one at a time so not to lose and buttons, o rings, or springs. They can be assembled one at a time when going back together, just don't forget to line up marks every step of the re-installation. Once you get it apart, you can check all the rollers and weights and clean as needed.
 

mjkaliszak

New member
The clutch puller isn't a costly item. I have a puller for every sled I own. Parts Unlimited , Shade tree, ect...
Well worth the 30-50 bucks.
 

longtrack

Member
Doo clutches can be split on the shaft. There are arrows and marks to line up when putting it back together. Not rocket science. Once you get the sheave off, then the inside of the sheave slides out, but nice and easy. I assume you won't have the tool to hold the buttons in so try to do one at a time so not to lose and buttons, o rings, or springs. They can be assembled one at a time when going back together, just don't forget to line up marks every step of the re-installation. Once you get it apart, you can check all the rollers and weights and clean as needed.

I suppose you want him to let the Spring fly out without the proper Tool also.
 

renegade

Active member
The spring I'm refering to are the ones in between the buttons, about 3/4 of and inch long. There is also a tool for that. They can shoot those little plastic buttons about a whole 6 inches! If you would pull it a part all at once one would be looking around for awhile to find all 6 buttons! Now if you want to take out the main spring, you do need a tool. But not a $75 one, about 6 bucks of ready rod, nuts and washers. You can clean the clutch without taking the main spring out. A little compressed air can go a long ways.
 

russholio

Well-known member
Out of curiosity......why would one not want to take the clutch off entirely for maintenance? Seems like it would be a whole lot easier.
 

renegade

Active member
All that is left on the engine is the inner sheave and shaft. You take all the inner workings of the clutch off either way, but it does make it nice not to have to take the sheave off the crank when repairs are needed away from home. It would not be easier, nor would it be a whole lot harder by using a puller and taking everything off, but one less step and one less tool needed. Makes it nice when you don't have a puller, repairs can still be made!
 

russholio

Well-known member
All that is left on the engine is the inner sheave and shaft. You take all the inner workings of the clutch off either way, but it does make it nice not to have to take the sheave off the crank when repairs are needed away from home. It would not be easier, nor would it be a whole lot harder by using a puller and taking everything off, but one less step and one less tool needed. Makes it nice when you don't have a puller, repairs can still be made!

Gotcha, thanks.
 

longtrack

Member
Seeing the outside half of the Clutch is usually stuck fairly tight to the inside half . Do you use a Crow bar to pry it loose after removing the Bolt or will a Hammer work?
 

blutooth

New member
The clutches on the XPs are double compression fittings. I don't think you can get just one half off. If it is a Rev with the splines between the 2 halves, you have a good chance of getting just the outside half off. To remove the clutch from the sled, I have the best luck with the water method.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hYEBbrpcTOM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Remove the bolt, put the sled on its side, fill the hole with water, put a LOT of teflon tape on the bolt (make sure you put it on the right direction), and screw it in until the clutch pops. Then to split the clutch you need to screw the bolt in so it is grabbing the inside sheave threads and drop the clutch on the bolt - it will take a few drops...

I used to be delicate with it and it took twice as long... I also used to use the puller tool to pop the clutch off and if you measure it, it usually takes somewhere around 150 ft-lbs to remove, and I was always worried about over cranking the tool and breaking it in the sled - then you are screwed!

Good luck!
 
Top