Ski Doo Rev XP tightening the chain

M

muss

New member
I was told you should hand tighten the chain in the chain case by turning the rod that sticks out of the chain case behind the muffler, I know
This is a bad description but for those of you that have done it I know you know what I am talking about. Anyway, I was told to loosen the bolt
On top then hand turn the bottom of the rod till tight then tighten the bolt on top again, but when I lossen that top bolt it all turns as one unit
So there is no way of tightening or turning the bottom because it does not thred through the top bolt, in other words when you loosen the top bolt
And then turn the bottom by hand it just tightens the top bolt back up snug on the frame, so all I am doing is loosening and tightening the bolt and
Not actually tightening the chain. Any ideas? Or what am I missing? Any help greatly appreciated.
 
R

renten

New member
muss said:
I was told you should hand tighten the chain in the chain case by turning the rod that sticks out of the chain case behind the muffler, I know
This is a bad description but for those of you that have done it I know you know what I am talking about. Anyway, I was told to loosen the bolt
On top then hand turn the bottom of the rod till tight then tighten the bolt on top again, but when I lossen that top bolt it all turns as one unit
So there is no way of tightening or turning the bottom because it does not thred through the top bolt, in other words when you loosen the top bolt
And then turn the bottom by hand it just tightens the top bolt back up snug on the frame, so all I am doing is loosening and tightening the bolt and
Not actually tightening the chain. Any ideas? Or what am I missing? Any help greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
I think the trouble you are having is due to the sealing washer that has a rubber O ring that keeps the lock nut and adjustment screw from turning independently. I always remove the chain cover to check the chain tension,clean out gunk, metal filings, and check sprocket bolts. I hold the adj. screw with a pliers, back the lock nut down, then thread up the screw until there is about a 1/4" of free play in the chain then draw up the lock nut. Clean the cover O ring gasket, install cover making sure not to strip bolts. I have a pretty good grip and if I tighten by hand the chain ends up way too tight.
 
M

muss

New member
renten said:
I think the trouble you are having is due to the sealing washer that has a rubber O ring that keeps the lock nut and adjustment screw from turning independently. I always remove the chain cover to check the chain tension,clean out gunk, metal filings, and check sprocket bolts. I hold the adj. screw with a pliers, back the lock nut down, then thread up the screw until there is about a 1/4" of free play in the chain then draw up the lock nut. Clean the cover O ring gasket, install cover making sure not to strip bolts. I have a pretty good grip and if I tighten by hand the chain ends up way too tight.
Click to expand...


Perfect! I can believe I never thought of holding the adjustment screw with a pair of pliers while turning the bolt! Thanks
 
M

muss

New member
Final question on this, when I turned the adjustment screw to tighten the chain (this was its first adjustment as it was brand new, now with 1200 miles)
The screw tuned a full roation and felt tight but then turned another full rotation and felt tight again but then went another half turn and felt tight and could
Not turn no more, is it possible to have the chain too tight? Should I loosen the nut and back it off a little?
 
G

gravy

New member
i would take the cover off to inspect the chain. this gives you the chance to see what is going on inside. with 1200 miles on original oil time to clean it out anyway.
 
M

muss

New member
Yeah, I know I should change chain case oil, and I changed chain case oil every year in my other revs because all you had to do was take
Out the plug on the bottom of sled, but these newer revs you have to take the chain case cover off just to change the oil, for a non gear head
As myself this seems like a big job, and I really should do this before the snow flies so here are some questions, first I assume I have to take
The battery harness and battery out to get to it correct? Then when you take the bolts out does the oil just start leaking everywhere? How do you
Not make a mess? After you inspect clean, and check chain and put cover back on, where do you refill and how much? This is a 2011 Rev XP TNT 600 carb
Thanks for any help, this is new to me, dont know why they dont make it easier to change chain case oil.
 
R

russholio

Well-known member
Muss -- I'm not what anyone would call a gear head either, so I feel your pain. But....with the aid of a shop manual and a goodly amount of help from knowledgeable folks here on JD and DooTalk, I learned to do a LOT of things that I never would have attempted before, and found out that they really weren't that bad. Bad thing is, it costs you some time. Good thing is, it saves you lots of money. Trust yourself, use the forums and guys that know to your advantage (most are more than willing to help), take your time, have some beverage, and enjoy! Not to sound sappy, but you really will feel a sense of accomplishment when you do something that normally you would have paid somebody to do.
 
M

muss

New member
russholio said:
Muss -- I'm not what anyone would call a gear head either, so I feel your pain. But....with the aid of a shop manual and a goodly amount of help from knowledgeable folks here on JD and DooTalk, I learned to do a LOT of things that I never would have attempted before, and found out that they really weren't that bad. Bad thing is, it costs you some time. Good thing is, it saves you lots of money. Trust yourself, use the forums and guys that know to your advantage (most are more than willing to help), take your time, have some beverage, and enjoy! Not to sound sappy, but you really will feel a sense of accomplishment when you do something that normally you would have paid somebody to do.
Click to expand...

I know exactly what your talking about as I have learned and done much more on sleds than I have ever thought I could thanks to the people on these boards, now I am in need of help on step by step instructions of how to change chaincase
Oil in Ski Doo rev XP! please help! Thanks in advance!
 
M

muss

New member
I can say this much, it was a lot easier when Ski Doo put a simple plug on the bottom for an easy chain case oil change, I think they changed it to make it harder for the average guy to do so we have to take it in to the dealer, which is exactly what I may have to do unless I get some help.
 
V

vic_junior

Member
The job is a little time consuming, but other than that it’s fairly easy. Trying this from memory because I’m out of the country and don’t have an XP sitting in front of me.

Take off exhaust muffler, a spring puller would help especially for the spring behind the muffler
Take Battery out
You might have to disconnect some wires and maybe take off a battery bracket
Unplug Chain case sensor
Put a drain pain under the belly pan, If I remember right there is a hole in the belly pan where the oil can leak out of, the rest you will have to clean up with rags
Start taking the chain case bolts out, make sure they are all out before you start trying to get the cover off
Once the cover is off clean it up and check the gasket that goes around the edge and make sure it’s clear of any type of debris
Inspect gears and chain case for missing teeth or metal chunks sitting in the oil or sitting in the case behind bottom gear
Try and wipe out all oil from the bottom of the chain case
Now is a good time to adjust the chain tensioner
Loosen up the tensioner bolt locking nut (#24 in pic The nut that sits flush against chain case) Loosen it a couple of turns. Then loosen the tensioner bolt a few turns. (#25 in pic) To take the slack out of the chain, you have to wiggle the secondary clutch a little and rotate it very little towards the engine. While turning the secondary, at the same time tighten the chain tensioner bolt “Finger Tight” you don’t have to tighten it any more than that. Then back off ¼ turn. While holding the tensioner bolt in place, tighten the locknut back down.
Pop out cover on Chain case cover (#37 in pic) This is how you fill the chain case up with oil
Put chain case cover back on, Make sure the chain case cover seats correctly against the chain case. You will feel it fall into place.
Put the bolts in with your fingers and make sure you don’t cross thread any of them. Take your time putting these in. The case is made out of magnesium which is a very soft metal and these bolts can strip very easily. (Don’t ask me how I know this)
In the manual I believe is says 89 “INCH” pounds. I would torque each one to around 40 inch pounds in a cross pattern and then go back and torque them all down to 89 inch pounds in a cross pattern.
Recheck all bolts to make sure they are all tightened.
Pull out plug (#26 in pic)
Fill with oil until it pours out the plug hole #26. Make sure your sled is sitting flat on the ground when filling up.
Once oil comes out hole #26. Put plug back in. Put cover #37 back on.
Assembly the rest in the order you took off.


When you are disassembling make sure you put the parts in a certain spot on a table so you don’t lose any or kick around any screws or bolts. It’s an easy job. Hope this helps.

Parts numbers I have listed can be seen in the parts fiche listed below. If it doesn't show up. Just go the powersedge website and follow the links for skidoo oem parts. Select skidoo, year, mxz, tnt 600, then drive system.

http://www.powersedge.com/pages/Oem..._Z_TNT_600,_2011/05-_Drive_System/66274/70838
 
S

snowfreak56

Member
If you turned the adjuster that far you better pull the cover.You probably have the chain to tight now and the only way to know is take a look at it.Just remember you are twisting steel bolts in aluminum.It is really not all that bad to do.
 
D

doofan1

Member
You can pump out the old lube through the rubbber fill hole on the top of the case. The case holds 12OZ of lube. otherwise take the case bolts outs and the oil runs into the belly pan and on the floor. kind of a pain compaired to the older ones
 
D

doospunk

Active member
NO need to pump any oil out the the XP's chaincase. Just loosen the lower 4 chaincase bolts. It's designed to gravity drain out the bottom into the running board recession which has a small drill hole in it. Just stick a bucket under there, tighten the 4 bolts back up, and fill it up through the rubber capped fill hole.
 
D

doospunk

Active member
muss said:
I can say this much, it was a lot easier when Ski Doo put a simple plug on the bottom for an easy chain case oil change, I think they changed it to make it harder for the average guy to do so we have to take it in to the dealer, which is exactly what I may have to do unless I get some help.
Click to expand...

Muss,

It's just as easy as the REV was. Not difficult at all. Feel free to PM me and we can discuss walking through it if you want.
 
M

muss

New member
Thanks guys, I did get this changed a while ago, surprised to see it resurface to the top, when I posted it I thought I would have
To take the muffler, battery and all that out, but I just loosened the bolts and cracked it open and let drain, so your right it wasint
Too bad of a job, I still like the old way better. Thanks again for all the replys!
 
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