I just picked up a 2 placer & thinking of using it as a sled deck, it's alum & 8' x 10'. Any one done this before? Maybe some plans somewhere. I just came to the conclusion that my enclosed is to rusty to make it thru the season, & will be repairing it next summer. Thx. This way I can still haul 4 2 on the bed 2 on another 2 place.
sled deck using old 2 place?
- Thread starter rmk4ever
- Start date
indy_500
Well-known member
no just 3/4 ton leafs or add a leaf 2 sleds that someone would actually put on a sled deck i.e. NOT A YAMI and the old trailer (assuming aluminum) should be around 1200-1500 lbs. If you do it make sure to light er up like a christmas tree!
The one around my house is on a 1/2 ton but I am sure he has bags or leafs.
I have looked at it before and it was a tilt at 1 time just built a box underneath it deck sits about 3/4 of a inch over bed rails.
has a sheet of diamond plate bolted to fr covering window.
and a few turnbuckles on bed.
heck a few yrs ago I saw a Jed Clampet type rolling down the road with a 2 place sled deck built with green treat 2x6 and osb decking on a old mid 70s ford 3/4 ton
I have looked at it before and it was a tilt at 1 time just built a box underneath it deck sits about 3/4 of a inch over bed rails.
has a sheet of diamond plate bolted to fr covering window.
and a few turnbuckles on bed.
heck a few yrs ago I saw a Jed Clampet type rolling down the road with a 2 place sled deck built with green treat 2x6 and osb decking on a old mid 70s ford 3/4 ton
No prob there, going on a 1 ton 2 wheel drive dually. Hopefully that will bring the rear to front "rake" down a little. I am used to having 4 long tracks in a 24 ft'er & 1 in the bed, that thing still hunts for traction. Hopefully this will help. Indy, what do you think about your new seat? & are you going to get the "tube running boards" from snowest guy? Ezra, you going to the waldoch swaps in columbus on sat the 23rd? Is it worth going?
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Good to know. I'm surprised this isn't a more popular idea. If I had a truck, I think I'd much rather travel with 2 sleds in the bed than have to deal with a trailer. I haven't done it before, but I think you'd save some gas compared to pulling an enclosed, and it's got to keep the sleds much cleaner compared to an open trailer. Of course if you have the sleds sitting and stored in a 2 place enclosed all the time, you just have to hook up and go, and you have much more room to keep all your stuff, it's more secure, etc., so maybe that's a better scenario for most.
With a 1 ton you obviously will be fine on the weight but if anyone else is looking to do this take a look at the air springs form this company. We added them to my wife's mini van for when we tow a single sled or a couple ATV's and they have worked great.
http://www.airliftcompany.com/
http://www.airliftcompany.com/
indy_500
Well-known member
The seat is awesome!!! Think I'm gonna try my dimpled boards maybe get wrp next year
I'd think the additional wind resistance with the sleds so high will cancel any savings vs. pulling a trailer.
I dont think I am going to waldoch swap went 1 or 2 yrs ago was not worth the drive for me.
BTW I went with the tube running boards from snowest guy B&M fab and I love them.
lol I have had a set from them ridding in the back seat of my truck for about 2 mo .I really need to quit blowing that project off and get it done. about 3 weeks ago I did take the jack out of the garage out .I could not find t bar for lugs after 2 min of looking for it jack went back in garage .really got to quit procrastinating on this one. I did spend the money on load rage e tires so that part is done
Bradzoo is right, I did this a few years ago. So far the deck has been out west 4-5 times and to the Yoop at least 6. I have a 1 ton SRW long box with airbags (I also put a rear sway bar on this year). If I have just the sleds no air in the bags, with a fully loaded trailer I add about 40-50 psi to the bags. I know guys do it, but I would NEVER recommend putting a sled deck on a 1/2 ton. Sure you can bump up the rear suspension but you are still overloading other components on the truck, not to mention you are legally overweight and taking all kinds of risks if something were to happen (try making an insurance claim if you are exceeding the legal limits of the vehicle you are in - or will your insurance defend you if god forbid you lose control and hit someone? Too big a risk for me anyway). Just the 2 sleds is at least 1,100 lbs if you have the lightest sleds on the market. That is close to total box payload alone before you add passengers, gear, the deck, etc...
Anyway, back to my build. I started with a 92" wide Chilton sitting in my buddies back yard with a rusted off axle. Cut everything off of it except the frame and sides. From there I built 2 sets of legs. Basically it is 2 C-channels that run about 6' into the box. Each C-channel had 2 legs welded to it and the C-Channels were then welded to the existing trailer. From there I welded up a headache rack to protect the back window, a beavertail support to hook the ramp on to and a 2 part ramp that is a total of 5' long (If I were to do it again I would make a 1 piece 8' ramp - the 10' is nice but putting it together is a bit of a pain). The deck can be put in the truck with 2 able-bodied adults with a little work, but with 3 or 4 it is a snap. Chain and turnbuckles to factory hold downs in the bed keep it in place (originally I used camper tie downs on the outside but they got too beat up in the winter with salt). After 2 years I upgraded to Superclamps - definitely worth the ridiculous amount of money they charge to not have to climb up there and mess around with tie downs.
Some pictures are below.
This is a bad picture of the leg, but you can sort of make out the C-Channel at the top. (I would make the feet bigger next time around - I have to put it on plywood plates to keep it from falling into the grooves on the bed).
The ramp uses an old truck box liner I bought for $25 off craigslist. And bolts together with 1/4" steel plates and wing nuts.
One of the first times we used it. Covers don't work real well up there - they tend to rip, never did that again. They stay clean pretty clean on their own though.
I have a pretty complete parts list for the aluminum that I used still. Let me know if you are interested and I will dig it up quick. Without any super discounts I think I paid somewhere around $500-600 for the aluminum. The ramp is the most expensive and time consuming part.
Anyway, back to my build. I started with a 92" wide Chilton sitting in my buddies back yard with a rusted off axle. Cut everything off of it except the frame and sides. From there I built 2 sets of legs. Basically it is 2 C-channels that run about 6' into the box. Each C-channel had 2 legs welded to it and the C-Channels were then welded to the existing trailer. From there I welded up a headache rack to protect the back window, a beavertail support to hook the ramp on to and a 2 part ramp that is a total of 5' long (If I were to do it again I would make a 1 piece 8' ramp - the 10' is nice but putting it together is a bit of a pain). The deck can be put in the truck with 2 able-bodied adults with a little work, but with 3 or 4 it is a snap. Chain and turnbuckles to factory hold downs in the bed keep it in place (originally I used camper tie downs on the outside but they got too beat up in the winter with salt). After 2 years I upgraded to Superclamps - definitely worth the ridiculous amount of money they charge to not have to climb up there and mess around with tie downs.
Some pictures are below.
This is a bad picture of the leg, but you can sort of make out the C-Channel at the top. (I would make the feet bigger next time around - I have to put it on plywood plates to keep it from falling into the grooves on the bed).
The ramp uses an old truck box liner I bought for $25 off craigslist. And bolts together with 1/4" steel plates and wing nuts.
One of the first times we used it. Covers don't work real well up there - they tend to rip, never did that again. They stay clean pretty clean on their own though.
I have a pretty complete parts list for the aluminum that I used still. Let me know if you are interested and I will dig it up quick. Without any super discounts I think I paid somewhere around $500-600 for the aluminum. The ramp is the most expensive and time consuming part.