Studs

T

tgun

New member
Looking to stud my Fusion with 96 0r 120. Is there a big difference in handling between the two? Thanks
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
lol i thought it was going to be something about to stud or not to stud! "no studding" would get my vote. track will last longer, your trailer will thank you, and so will your heat exchangers!
 
C

caged_beagle

Member
indy_500 said:
lol i thought it was going to be something about to stud or not to stud! "no studding" would get my vote. track will last longer, your trailer will thank you, and so will your heat exchangers!
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OK stud nazi! Get off the f'n stud propaganda because you were too lazy to tighten your track and sent one through your heat exchanger. I have well over 30,000 miles on sleds with studs and have never had a problem. Let's chalk your unfortunate occurance up to "operator error."


As far as 96 vs. 120..... I would say either is better than none if you're going for traction and the difference between the two is monetarily more than the difference in the traction itself.
 
D

dab102999

New member
Unless you are lake racin 96 will do just fine. That is what I put on most everything, even the 800's. (I assume you are talking 121 track here)
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
snobuilder said:
144 min. for 600 cc on up. The number of studs goes up with HP. Not enough studs = more tear outs.
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Good point, I never thought of that.
To tell the truth, I never heard of stud protectors or what ever you call them until I put my studs through my tunnel and gas tank when I was on a trip to Houghton, ... never said I was a genius though.
 
N

nic

New member
That 600 fusion is a peppy piece of machinery- we own one. I'd go w/ 120. As someone noted, if you understud- you are more likely to rip 'em out. We have 120 in the 600, and I have 144 on my 800. I would not stud in the outside window, go down the center only. The outside ones definitely weaken the track and pull through much easier. Since studding center only- I've yet to have any issues. Tunnel protectors are a must to protect your machine. Also consider what size carbide you use. You should have a good balance- if you only run 4" carbides, but have 144 studs, your sled will push (not enough steering). If you run 10" carbides w/ 96 studs, your sled will slide (too much steering, not enough traction). If you run the standard 6" carbide, either should be fine, but I'd go w/ 120 if money isn't your concern.
As discussed in an earlier thread- I'm a firm believer in studs for the traction/safety. Not just acceleration, but more in the braking dept. Will it weaken your track? Maybe a bit. But I've had over 6K miles on a 144 studded 800 w/ absolutely no pull throughs or track issues. Will it eventually give out? Sure. But a new $300 track is worth the peace of mind I had when putting on those thousands of miles.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
If you get woody's studs, i don't recommend studding the outer edge of the track. Ice builds up on the top of woody's studs and the faster u go, more ice builds and the ice hits the bogey wheels and creates a ton of rattling. anything over 55, felt like the sled was going to blow up, literally. took the studs out of the outer edge and no more rattling.
 
T

tgun

New member
Nic-did you go with tunnel protectors and a for the heat exchanger? Did you use the universal 120 pattern but move the ones outside the windows inside?

I run 8 inch Triple points so thinking 120 should work. This is my first track that I am studding so I want to get everything right..the first time.
 
N

nic

New member
I'd be lying if I tried to tell you the details. I actually purchased my sled new in MI, but live in IL, so I shipped the studs to the dealer and paid them $1/stud to do it all for me. Worth the $145 to not hear my husband complain about a day spent bent over the track installing them himself. I also picked it up and rode it that day, and wasn't willing to ride the entire trip w/ no studs. I was a little shocked when I got the bill and it was closer to $300, but that's b/c they installed the tunnel protectors and I wasn't thinking about those. They said you have to (and if you read the owner's manual, it says the same thing). I also have a 1.25 track, so pretty big studs. The protector itself was like $90. They didn't charge me extra to install that. It's to protect the tunnel & exchangers in case you bottom out. I think a dealer would be able to tell you exactly what you need for that.
As for pattern- they used the 144 center only pattern. When we studded my older sled center only- there wasn't a pattern, so we just eliminated them and had 'extras'. Checking the studboy site, I didn't see a 120 center only pattern, but Woodys has one on their site. Here's the link:
http://www.wiem.com/catalog/details_product.aspx?id=1202041442596041&cat=13
 
M

miaferominka

New member
indy_500 said:
if you get woody's studs, i don't recommend studding the outer edge of the track. Ice builds up on the top of woody's studs and the faster u go, more ice builds and the ice hits the bogey wheels and creates a ton of rattling. Anything over 55, felt like the sled was going to blow up, literally. Took the studs out of the outer edge and no more rattling.
Click to expand...

outer edge is old school. Center only no tear outs
 
L

lvr1000

New member
Recently someone posted something similar to this, "Studs are like training wheels, Once you learn how to ride, you will not need them."

Don't use them on my trail sleds. Already have 5000 miles on my '09.

I think it depends on your riding style and trail conditions. The last trail sled I had with studs I was replacing 10 to 15 each day (260-340 mile) (most broke) on the guy trips.

T-cat below needs more. Have not lost any yet (11years 530 miles), but mostly goes straight.
 

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