Track tension - how much, how to measure
- Thread starter Hoosier
- Start date
misty_pines
Member
With the sled on a stand, in the middle of the track, you should have around 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" of track sag with about 16 pounds of down force. I use a tape measure and start with track pushed up against slides, then push down with an estimated amount of force and adjust as needed until I'm at those measurements. Of course, always align your track as well when doing this. You don't want to run to track too loose to prevent "ballooning" at high speeds which I've read can slow you down a bit.
Gates makes a really nice tool for doing this, about the diameter of a big crayola marker, has LB increments and inches and you scale it by moving two o-rings on movable shaft of tool, works really well and have had mine for years, one thing to remember is once you start messing with adjusters make sure alignment is true.
I say this with lots of respect..watch a sled specific video online..way more informative than a chat room.
Bear
600_RMK_144
Active member
Just worked on mine last night (2020 RMK 155"). Getting ready for anything from a dusting to a foot of snow here in IA... Every mfg. can be different, but my manual says 5/8" - 3/4" slack (slide to track clip) measured with 10lbs of downward pressure on the track at 16" ahead of the rear idler shaft bolt. As Ezra said, a lot of guys just eyeball it.
misty_pines
Member
No, loctite not needed. You loosen the rear idler wheels so adjustments can be made, then make the track adjustments turning the adjustment bolts, then tighten down the rear idlers wheels and all good.
One thing I've learned since buying my 18 RMK, and now having a 20, keep the track tension tight, per the owners manual, your belt drive will love you for it!
Never have used lock tight on rear axel
I just went through the same investigation! I found that this topic is nearly as entertaining as oil brand/viscosity conversations on other types of forums!!!
In the end, I did buy the track tool mentioned by euphoric1. It's super simple to use if you don't have a lift, but it's not mandatory! I think this is one of those things that is super important to get close, but there really isn't an exact right amount of tension or how to do it. Being a self-proclaimed keyboard expert (Ha), if you are at 12lbs-18lbs of downforce and can measure 1.25-1.75" of deflection, you are close enough for most of us fun riders.
Almost more important it making sure the track is well aligned after the adjustment. On my 2019 Enduro (137"), the track walked to the left after adjustment. I checked everything 3x and it turns out that the right side needs a little more adjustment than the left for the track to run straight. After it was well aligned, I worked backwards and re-checked the track tension. It measured 1.5"@15lbs on one side and 1.25"@15lbs on the other. Track is running straight and loose enough to not worry about it. Next time, I might go to 1.75 on one side and 1.5 on the other.... Who knows! I like to live dangerously and free!
In the end, I did buy the track tool mentioned by euphoric1. It's super simple to use if you don't have a lift, but it's not mandatory! I think this is one of those things that is super important to get close, but there really isn't an exact right amount of tension or how to do it. Being a self-proclaimed keyboard expert (Ha), if you are at 12lbs-18lbs of downforce and can measure 1.25-1.75" of deflection, you are close enough for most of us fun riders.
Almost more important it making sure the track is well aligned after the adjustment. On my 2019 Enduro (137"), the track walked to the left after adjustment. I checked everything 3x and it turns out that the right side needs a little more adjustment than the left for the track to run straight. After it was well aligned, I worked backwards and re-checked the track tension. It measured 1.5"@15lbs on one side and 1.25"@15lbs on the other. Track is running straight and loose enough to not worry about it. Next time, I might go to 1.75 on one side and 1.5 on the other.... Who knows! I like to live dangerously and free!
yamadooed
Active member
Apparently the engineer that wrote the book tension spec must've forgot that you have a 3 wheel offset rear axle... So with a equal tension spec it will always pull to the less wheel side. You can fix this by adding a 4th wheel kit to even up the tracking. I'm not sure on the enduro but I believe they also use a staggered idler mounting pattern which would also help influence the track walk... I live free and piss dangerously!
Apparently the engineer that wrote the book tension spec must've forgot that you have a 3 wheel offset rear axle... So with a equal tension spec it will always pull to the less wheel side. You can fix this by adding a 4th wheel kit to even up the tracking. I'm not sure on the enduro but I believe they also use a staggered idler mounting pattern which would also help influence the track walk... I live free and piss dangerously!
This guy is a treasure!
indy_500
Well-known member
Spot on, you don’t want a belt driven pro to ratchet. I’ve also lost a lot of rpm from running tracks looser than spec so to each their own...
I set it by what I felt like was about right. Manual says 2" of sag with 20 lbs of force.
I picked up a cheap fish scale yesterday to double check it. As it sits now, it's 2" with 15 lbs. About 2 1/4 at 20 lbs. I'm thinking that's close enough.
I think this dumb work from home from COVID has given me too much time to mess with all this and overthink it...
I picked up a cheap fish scale yesterday to double check it. As it sits now, it's 2" with 15 lbs. About 2 1/4 at 20 lbs. I'm thinking that's close enough.
I think this dumb work from home from COVID has given me too much time to mess with all this and overthink it...
HOOSIER for maximum speed you set it to factory specs with 20 pounds pull on fish scale like you did...then loosen a tad and realign like an endless belt sander....within 1/16 of an inch from little lugs to hyfax on each side....or do the factory...then loosen just until it ratchets with drive wheels at WOT....then tighten a tad and adjust like endless belt sander....capers?
What hybrid said above is correct...post #10