Trifold snowmobile ramp advice

snomoman

Active member
So here’s what I’m thinking, I do have some ACM panels, if anybody doesn’t know what that is it’s aluminum composite material which is around 1/4” thick, I have 2 -8’ x 12” wide pieces, I’m planning on putting them out and then use them to run my skis up onto them, remove the wheel assembly’s, then give it some gas and get the inertia to get up the trailer, curious to know if that works, I guess the first try will be a learning experience... LOL
 

ezra

Well-known member
Bud just got this one and it is very nice . Prob selling my old one to get this one .
I use the ramp way way more than trailer. Worst part about owning a ramp is just how many calls you get from guys wanting to use it for a few days . I bet I have borrowed mine out at least 5 times a yr every yr

https://www.discountramps.com/snowmobile/ramps/p/SNO-TRI-FOLD-77/

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Thanks for all the great advice everyone, now I’m trying to figure something else out, maybe someone can help me with this, I’ve got a concrete driveway that I paid big bucks for that I don’t want to gouge up with my carbides, so I’m thinking if I could put removable wheels on the skis that I could use on the ramp, I know they make some kind of a permanent mount system that you can buy but it’s like $250, so I’m thinking of those wheels that you use to roll your snowmobile around, if I could use a binder on them to hold them in place while driving it up the ramp, just an idea, any other suggestions? Thanks

It is cement not gold it will get pock marks and cracks over time . It won't stay new for ever just use it . Again it is just cement and you will hardly notice a few carbide lines .
 
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katden4

Active member
Have you actually done this up a ramp into a truck bed? Seems they would tend to wash out and slide off the sides? But again I’ve never actually done it.

Going up no problem at all. Just line it up straight they don’t turn well. I have never backed down anything with them, but I think with a second strap behind the spindle it would be fine.
 

favoritos

Well-known member
Driveway question.
I also have a nice chunk of concrete and load using a steep ramp.
I use a set of steerable dollies under the skis. I line the sled up with the ramp and drive out of the dollies when the wheels hit the ramp. Just verify that your carbides will not catch behind the dolly plate.
I also run studs. I lay down a piece of scrap plywood at the ramp base. It is about twenty inches wide by six feet long.(It is narrow so the dollies run along the side) My ramp has a traction section that extends out from the base. The older ramps without the traction section allowed the plywood to "kick out" if the track spun on the ground while loading.
I've tried quite a few variations of loading techniques over the years with different ramps. I still load without dollies and plywood when I'm not on the "fancy" floor. The loading works about the same.
BTW, it doesn't take much to mark up concrete and epoxy floors. I have epoxy flooring with densely imbedded aluminum oxide aggregate. Good carbides and studs still leave good marks. I just use the wheels and plywood to protect those floors.
 

favoritos

Well-known member
I guess I'm the only one who has a truck that can actually drive on grass?

Nope. That is my preferred method away from home. Super easy with no fuss on grass, gravel, or any other surface. Heck, if I had a good road ditch or snowbank everywhere, I could throw away the ramp.
I also concur with what High Country is saying. I have one shop with an old beat up concrete floor. I don't bother trying to protect that floor and it has plenty of smile memories scratched into the surface.
This floor gets the extra steps for protection.
20171006_084715.jpg
That boiler is also tied to snow melt in the driveway. The surface sensors alone are worth protecting. The concrete still looks pretty good too.
 

katden4

Active member
Nope. That is my preferred method away from home. Super easy with no fuss on grass, gravel, or any other surface. Heck, if I had a good road ditch or snowbank everywhere, I could throw away the ramp.
I also concur with what High Country is saying. I have one shop with an old beat up concrete floor. I don't bother trying to protect that floor and it has plenty of smile memories scratched into the surface.
This floor gets the extra steps for protection.
View attachment 62493
That boiler is also tied to snow melt in the driveway. The surface sensors alone are worth protecting. The concrete still looks pretty good too.

Very nice looking floor. My brother just finished a new garage, and for protection he laid the horse trailer mats, they work great as well.
 

Go Fast or Go Home

Active member
As xcr440 said---Black Ice ramps from Discount Ramps.

They are 6" longer than the Caliber ramps which take out more of the angle on approach.

I bought the extension piece but have never used it.

Don~
 
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