Very good technical article for you poo guys on proper warm up of CFI engines

[momoney2123]

http://www.2strokeheads.com/POLARIS WARM UP.htm

May be something to consider as i see and hear all the time poo guys warming their sleds up to 120+temps, big no no. This guy has forgot more about 2 strokes than most i know. Do you guys agree?

 

[srt20]

http://www.2strokeheads.com/POLARIS WARM UP.htm

May be something to consider as i see and hear all the time poo guys warming their sleds up to 120+temps, big no no. This guy has forgot more about 2 strokes than most i know. Do you guys agree?

Most turn oil pumps up, giving more oil at idle. Most do not let engine warm up and then immediately hammer WOT.

I'm not saying I disagree with him, but he has a tendency to blow things well out of proportion.

 

[indy_500]

I'm not saying I disagree with him, but he has a tendency to blow things well out of proportion.

Yup, I agree with that. I will continue to let mine warm up until 100 before I take off. Other than that temp gauge how else will we know if the motor is warm enough? There are too many factors that come into play, like when it was last started, the ambient air temp etc. that will affect the engine components temperatures. One day the components will be warm enough to take off when the coolant temp is at 60 the next day maybe 90. My pump is turned up 3.75 turns and I splash a few ounces of oil in my gas tank before every day.

 

[xcr440]

Most turn oil pumps up, giving more oil at idle. Most do not let engine warm up and then immediately hammer WOT.

Staying off WOT is the biggest key here, but I tend to agree, there is no reason to let it sit and idle for god knows how long until you reach 120 or what ever temp you think is safe. 60-70 degrees with a few blips getting there and it will run just fine at partial throttle. If you know what you are listening for, you can tell when a 2-stroke is fully warmed up for what ever you want to give it.

Funny thing, I tend to do just what he says. Get it started, get it off the trailer, a couple rotations of the track without me on it to get the belt and everything else rolling freely (Especially when its below zero), maybe a circle around the driveway, and then go in and get dressed. If I do need to do something, I'm in the work clothes to do it!

Edit: This staying off WOT is also imperative when you come out of the bar after sitting there for lunch or that extra beer you didn't need. A couple miles down the trail taking it easy shouldn't hurt your feelings if your buddy takes off on you and beats you to the first corner.

 

[Hoosier]

I have no way of knowing if this article is true - my knowledge is limited to doing top ends. But if it is right, are the issues he mentioned with the injectors spraying off the oil specific to the cfi system or all injected 2 strokes?

The tips from indydan said nothing is more imperative than a full warm up, but he also recommends not using synthetic oil - perhaps the synthetic oil rinses off easier. This is all way beyond my knowledge level though

 

[indy_500]

I have no way of knowing if this article is true - my knowledge is limited to doing top ends. But if it is right, are the issues he mentioned with the injectors spraying off the oil specific to the cfi system or all injected 2 strokes?

The tips from indydan said nothing is more imperative than a full warm up, but he also recommends not using synthetic oil - perhaps the synthetic oil rinses off easier. This is all way beyond my knowledge level though

Only the CFI system where the oil is only injected into the bottom end.

 

[snobuilder]

Best idea I took from his parsed theory is to add a few OZ's a mix oil into the fuel at fill ups...just remember that if you fill up at 1/2 tank intervals you already have added oil so add new oil accordingly.

The enemy is the EPA regs....whether it is the CFI Poos or the Doo Isoflex bearing failures....add some oil and carry on.

 

[srt20]

Like I said before, I'm not disagreeing with him, but I DO NOT think this is an issue either, unless you are hard on the throttle right away.

Furthermore, for the amount of gas used at idle, the amount of oil doesn't need to be much. If the 5 injection points of oil in the bottom case each inject 1 (one) drop of oil each every other second, which seems like a reasonable amount, that should be plenty of oil for the amount of gas being used. And how is the minuscule amount of gas, which by the way is atomized, going to wash the oil away.

I can however believe the the reason why the wrist pin bearing is always blue is because of low oil usage at idle or very low engine speeds. Every wonder why every single wrist pin bearing is blued from heat???

Again, I am not disagreeing, and he's more than likely right, but IMO I think the problem is more about letting it warm up at idle then immediately hammering WOT.

I'm not adding oil to my gas unless Im breaking in new Pistons. And I probably add less oil breaking them in, then most people.

 

[snobuilder]

Like I said before, I'm not disagreeing with him, but I DO NOT think this is an issue either, unless you are hard on the throttle right away.

Furthermore, for the amount of gas used at idle, the amount of oil doesn't need to be much. If the 5 injection points of oil in the bottom case each inject 1 (one) drop of oil each every other second, which seems like a reasonable amount, that should be plenty of oil for the amount of gas being used. And how is the minuscule amount of gas, which by the way is atomized, going to wash the oil away.

I can however believe the the reason why the wrist pin bearing is always blue is because of low oil usage at idle or very low engine speeds. Every wonder why every single wrist pin bearing is blued from heat???

Again, I am not disagreeing, and he's more than likely right, but IMO I think the problem is more about letting it warm up at idle then immediately hammering WOT.

I'm not adding oil to my gas unless Im breaking in new Pistons. And I probably add less oil breaking them in, then most people.

I agree that the assumption that owners that are aware enough to wait til the engine is up to a certain temp. then go off hollyhellbent at WOT is a bit much to accept.

why not add some oil in the tank...what harm is you afraid of.

 

[srt20]

I agree that the assumption that owners that are aware enough to wait til the engine is up to a certain temp. then go off hollyhellbent at WOT is a bit much to accept.

why not add some oil in the tank...what harm is you afraid of.

Not afraid of anything. I'm just not going to carry oil around with me everywhere. I also try not to wait until carnage happens to replace Pistons.
2 stroke Pistons are a wear and maintenance item and require periodic replacement. Cheap and easy. This is for any brand.

 

[snobuilder]

Not afraid of anything. I'm just not going to carry oil around with me everywhere. I also try not to wait until carnage happens to replace Pistons.
2 stroke Pistons are a wear and maintenance item and require periodic replacement. Cheap and easy. This is for any brand.

interesting....when does your carnage alarm go off?

 

[srt20]

interesting....when does your carnage alarm go off?

Well it's certainly not a bad idea to open the motor up after every riding season.

 

[snobuilder]

Is that what you do?...is there a mileage limit?

 

[srt20]

Is that what you do?...is there a mileage limit?

Mtn sled yes. And this year even more. Engine has been opened after both trips out west. Everything was new at beginning of season. Crank Pistons etc. Broke piston ring first trip. New piston and cylinder. Next trip compression was bumped to about 14:1 or so and wrist pin clip broke and chewed up other cylinder and piston. I admit I used cheap Pistons.

Trail sled I would like to see in there by 2000 miles, though I will admit my 13 poo 800 SB has about 2700 on it and I haven't opened it yet. But it's without a doubt getting opened this summer and it's getting work done to it whether it needs it or not. Though I fully expect the Pistons to be collapsed some.

 

[lenny]

I always let my sled hit 100 not 120. I would sometimes run the sled slow before 100 but never hard throttle. Kip actually told me to let it warm to 90 which is about what this article says, seems like my dealer was on the right track. If the sled indeed is getting little to no oil at idle than I would agree that the article is correct. Lke i said, I never let it go to 120. My buddies will never move the sled till 100 and I disagree. It will not hurt the sled in the least as long as you don't dump a butt load of heat into it but you are now adding oil before the sled is hot which is good. My opinion, the article seems reasonable, me likes.

 

[Hoosier]

Mtn sled yes. And this year even more. Engine has been opened after both trips out west. Everything was new at beginning of season. Crank Pistons etc. Broke piston ring first trip. New piston and cylinder. Next trip compression was bumped to about 14:1 or so and wrist pin clip broke and chewed up other cylinder and piston. I admit I used cheap Pistons.

Trail sled I would like to see in there by 2000 miles, though I will admit my 13 poo 800 SB has about 2700 on it and I haven't opened it yet. But it's without a doubt getting opened this summer and it's getting work done to it whether it needs it or not. Though I fully expect the Pistons to be collapsed some.

Seems reasonable if you have the time and know what you are looking for. If you find nothing - you're out what, a couple gaskets? And if you find some issues, you can address them while they are less costly and in the comfort of your own garage.

 

[xcr440]

It sure is amazing the different things people do. I wish there was some way of compiling statistics on what works and what doesn't. Edit: What I meant here is what is necessary and what isn't.

I NEVER open my motor after a riding season (I go through almost everything else), I NEVER dump oil in the gas, and I NEVER wait until 100 degrees to start riding. Guess time will tell if I have issues or not. 2250 miles this past season on the 08 700.

I will add that way back in the 70's, before synthetic oil, the old man opened our motors after every season and cleaned out the carbon, but I don't think that is an issue anymore with current oils.

 

[Skylar]

2800 miles on my 2012 Pro RMK after this weekend. I have had zero issues, motor has not been apart. My oil pump is turned up 2.5 turns from factory, and i have always let it warm up to 90-100 degrees on initial start up. After digging out after being stuck, or taking a break, I always start it up, and let the water temp stabilize before taking off again. Again, ZERO issues with my pos Poo 800.

RKTEK is a smart guy, not denying the fact, he also sells pistons for a living. Just saying.

i will be putting in his drop in piston kit in my sled over the summer by the way.

 

[opt8low]

Seems to me that the only problem Polaris has is giving all of you a temp gauge.....

How many sleds have you all had that DIDN'T have a temp gauge and you let it warm up a little and went for a ride. Seems like the way it should been done to me.

 

[snoluver1]

Seems to me that the only problem Polaris has is giving all of you a temp gauge.....

How many sleds have you all had that DIDN'T have a temp gauge and you let it warm up a little and went for a ride. Seems like the way it should been done to me.

Lol. I would have to agree. If you don't know simply by the sound that there ain't enough heat in the pipe to hammer down, then you shouldn't be riding a 2 stroke. Plain and simple. Just sayin'