Water Heater Issues

gogebictodd

New member
Any feedback on Power Vent water heaters. The one I have is a Rheem, 6 years old. It regularly goes into lock out mode. I am told by Rheem this is due to the flammable vapor sensor kicking in and shutting the gas off. After dealing with this for the most part every time I go up to the cabin, it will now not re start. NO FLAMMABLES are in the basement and it has never been painted. I am told by an HVAC guy he will NOT attempt
to repair it, since it could be so many different things.................So I am forced to replace it.

Anyone else experience such problems with these Power Vent style heaters. NOT only are they noisy
but a major PIA.

Could it possibly be the basement is an exposed type and generally damp and cold.

I welcome your input!
Best,
Gogebic Todd
 

gary_in_neenah

Super Moderator
Staff member
Todd,
I would check the outside vent opening. Make sure there's no blockage like a nest or plant life reducing the ability for the exhaust to vent.
I've had both shut down our furnace at one time or another. It could be something simple.

Gary
 

Scandia

New member
Also if it is the air cutoff switch goes out you can call rheem and get a new one for about 15 bucks. I work on alot of those things. They can be troublesome. If the air cutoff (vapor lock, backdraft preventer) goes out it is because the vent holes on the bottom of the water heater are plugged with dust.
 

polarisrider1

New member
I had two at the last house. One to run the infloor heat and one to provide hot water for a teen girls showers. They were noisy for sure and super sensitive. Dust will trigger them to shut down. Like the other guys have stated, if anything remotely changes the back preasure of the exhaust mine would shut down.
 

zltim

Member
Just get an old style heater. I assume you only run the heater when you are there so it gets bad from non use. Probably electric if you have 220.
 

scott_b

Member
Even thought they are less efficient electric water heaters do have their benefits. For how often you are up the annual cost would be neglagable.
 

MZEMS2

New member
I would agree with the venting thoughts. Something is present in the air to shut it down. Could be venting, breathing, dirty system, regulator...etc.... The power vent is supposed to get rid of bad vapors present, for some reason it is sensing more than it can get rid of. I'm no water heater expert, but I have a power vent and it's done the same things for the above reasons. Gotta keep everything clean. Might be a nest in your exhaust, simple as that.
 

ffemt

Member
I also have a rheem about 7yrs old replaced the whole burner valve twice and sensor once all parts where free direct from rheem a known problem I was told by rheem been all good for about three yrs now
 

gogebictodd

New member
THANKS Everyone for your replies, I decided as Scott B suggested to go with an Electric W/heater. No worries about it shutting down. They wanted over $400 for the part to fix the current one, so I decided to go new.

Bradford White 40 Gallon. Since I do heat the house 50 or so all winter, I was NOT planning on leaving it on
when I am not there, any opinons on that?

Thanks again for all your input, much appreciated. Todd
 

whitedust

Well-known member
My Power Vent water heater has worked well for 10 years but would convert to electric when this one goes down. LP is a rip off business so I have been converting gas to electric bought electric dryer last year & was told running costs are about the same for dryers. Not sure about operating costs of electric to LP gas water heaters but would rather pay electric than deal with rip off LP suppliers. LP gas a by product of gasoline & gasoline prices are down but LP $1.799 per gallon called today. I hate dealing with those guys.:(
 

blkhwkbob

Active member
Speaking of RHEEM water heaters, I just replaced one at my mom's house that I installed in 1989. 24 years is a pretty good run, huh? 50 gallon gas. Say what you want about Chicago, but they have some clean water!
 

chords

Active member
Your vent is clogged. ^^^^^^^^^

"Since I do heat the house 50 or so all winter, I was NOT planning on leaving it on
when I am not there, any opinons on that? "


I always leave the HW heater on a vacation setting (low) with the house heated at ~ 50 all winter. I cant say off is good or bad, but have never had any problems at that setting with the pilot light on and ready to fire up with the turn of the dial. It is natual gas.
 

Pit Grunt

Member
With electric you can shut the breaker off when you are gone. Have two houses in the northwoods and both have electric. Shut them off when we lock the door. When you come back it only takes about 45 min to heat the water. I also work on the power vents and rheem had some problems with the sensor for flamables. Good luck and have a safe season. Pit out..
 

scott_b

Member
Todd,
We keep the basement heated to around 50 when we are gone, that keeps the upstairs just above freezing even on the coldest days. When I leave I close the main valve from the well, turn the breaker for the water heater off, open all the faucets in the house and open the drain for the water heater. I figure this takes the pressure off the pipes and allows a fair amount of the water to drain so that if the power were off for any extended period of time (hopefully) the pipes would not burst. If you do this just make sure the water heater is filled all the way up before turning the breaker back on. I made that mistake once and burned up a heating element.
 

durphee

Well-known member
i had nothing but problems with my direct vent, it would keep going into lockout mode. Had to replace the main "computer" system 3 times. I replaced it with a tankless, would never go back.
 

gogebictodd

New member
THANKS SCOTT! Happy THANKSGIVING TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY!



Todd,
We keep the basement heated to around 50 when we are gone, that keeps the upstairs just above freezing even on the coldest days. When I leave I close the main valve from the well, turn the breaker for the water heater off, open all the faucets in the house and open the drain for the water heater. I figure this takes the pressure off the pipes and allows a fair amount of the water to drain so that if the power were off for any extended period of time (hopefully) the pipes would not burst. If you do this just make sure the water heater is filled all the way up before turning the breaker back on. I made that mistake once and burned up a heating element.
 

favoritos

Well-known member
I did run a Direct Vent water heater in my old house for 8 years before moving. It worked good with the right slope and sizing on the exhaust pipe. I did not experience issues with the "computer" side of the heater. It was on or off. The brain box was pretty simple.
I wish I could remember the model, It was new at the time, in the late 90's and replaced a 30 year old unit. (I was impressed that the older unit lasted so long)
 

scott_b

Member
No problem Todd. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family too.

If you do my pseudo winterizing make sure the valves are opened to warm so both the hot and cold are open (assuming one handle) to drain both sides.
 
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