What is a cost for an oil change for 2013 ski "ace" 600 touring?
- Thread starter jjj70095
- Start date
I've changed my own, pretty basic, two plugs on the bottom and the filter. I use Mobil 0-40 which has a better price point than the BRP product.
A word of caution though. Those drain plugs can be stripped out so take your time and don't over tighten.
My Spyder on the other hand is rather involved when it comes to the oil change. I take that in to the dealer for around $225.
A word of caution though. Those drain plugs can be stripped out so take your time and don't over tighten.
My Spyder on the other hand is rather involved when it comes to the oil change. I take that in to the dealer for around $225.
SHOOT2KILL
Active member
Looks like a 2 stroke is way less costly than a 4stroke...Using the $225.00 dealership oil change fee...I can buy 112 qts of Mystik JT4 2s oil ( 7.99 per gal on clearance at F&F) for that same price...My sled gets 180mi per qt...So thats 20,000+ miles worth of oil...2022 Gade 600 efi...
Hey, "Snowmobiling is Inexpensive", said no one, ever...They should be able to do a sled oil change for much less than 225. As stated above, two drain plugs and a filter and you're back out there. The reason the Spyder is more because of the time needed. It has to be on a lift and body panels need to come off to get to the engine. That, and they use BRP products which run a bit higher than others.
Best News of all, Regular Gasoline which most 4 Strokes burn is under 3 bucks a gallon locally. Let's hope it stays there for the snow season.
Best News of all, Regular Gasoline which most 4 Strokes burn is under 3 bucks a gallon locally. Let's hope it stays there for the snow season.
you know what they say.... "you wanna play you gotta pay" no more true statement than that, but hey... who's counting? and yes, lets hope on gas prices, diesel finally starting to fall too.
This was with my 2018 RZR S 900 as PS dealer in Houghton, Oil change at the dealer I was quoted $295. Said, if it bring my own oil, she said its still $295 because we check out the whole machine. I said, NO, I just want an oil change, was told, we can't just do that,we need to check over everything. Never been back there again.............
SHOOT2KILL
Active member
Yes im familiar with the procedure...I have a 2021 Ryker 600...
indy_500
Well-known member
The BRP oil change kits are $90. Includes oil, filter, oring, and new crush washers. Have a 14 Ace 900, and the motor/chassis was designed very well to accomadate oil changes and is extremely easy.
My plan is to change the oil, filter, whole sha-bang every other year, but drain and refill just strictly the oil every year.
As far as the cost comparison to a 2 stroke, yes, majority of 2 stroke injector oil is $50/gal and most sledders burn probably 2 gallons a season, Therefore making the cost of owning a 4s not any cheaper. Most 4s are more efficient on fuel though, and the motor will outlast a 2s tenfold.
If you’re not rebuilding your own 2 strokes, most dealers charge $2k+ just for a top end, which is where you’re going to save in the long run owning a 4s. At one point a few years ago I owned 5 sleds, and I had done a top end rebuild on 4/5 of them. It gets old after awhile! 4s isn’t for anyone but just trying to give some perspective!
My plan is to change the oil, filter, whole sha-bang every other year, but drain and refill just strictly the oil every year.
As far as the cost comparison to a 2 stroke, yes, majority of 2 stroke injector oil is $50/gal and most sledders burn probably 2 gallons a season, Therefore making the cost of owning a 4s not any cheaper. Most 4s are more efficient on fuel though, and the motor will outlast a 2s tenfold.
If you’re not rebuilding your own 2 strokes, most dealers charge $2k+ just for a top end, which is where you’re going to save in the long run owning a 4s. At one point a few years ago I owned 5 sleds, and I had done a top end rebuild on 4/5 of them. It gets old after awhile! 4s isn’t for anyone but just trying to give some perspective!
I charged my ski doo ace sled battery 3 days ago and sled started with no problem. When I try to start it now the past 2 days, the system lights and gas guage light up as normal, but I just get a click click click sound.....I recharged battery now for 12 hours with my battery maintainer, and system lights come on with the normal 2 beeps, but just got one click and no start.
The battey maintainer has a green light fully charged on it, so is it the battery or the starter????? The battery is around 3 years old.
The battey maintainer has a green light fully charged on it, so is it the battery or the starter????? The battery is around 3 years old.
I just replaced my 900t battery this week had trouble getting it to take charge 2 years ago screwed with it for days in cold wouldn’t charge up. Then I fast charged it at 50 amps for and hour then back to 2 amp charge and took a charge. Went to UP rode in cold weather held up fine. Then it sat for another year ran an electric pump off it in the Spring to pump out old gas and sat till now and was deader than a door nail so replaced it at the tune of $172. AGM batteries ain’t cheap. Make sure your connections are clean then fast charge it at high amperage for no more than 1 hour then 2 amp should do it 4 to 6 hours. AGMs charge up quickly so no need for long charge. I feel your frustration went thru exactly what your going through got 1 more season out of it then died completely this year.
indy_500
Well-known member
3 yrs is pretty decent for a power sports battery. Especially if it wasnt maintained on a tender periodically in the off-season.
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Batteries can be fickle. The one I have in my lawnmower is going on 8 years, the one in the Blizzard lasted 3. It's probably time to replace yours.
I give 3 to 5 years on batteries in powersports and lawn and garden applications, I know there are a lot of people who use tenders and have luck with them, but I am not a fan. Most things with some kind of CPU will have some kind of parasitic draw. if batteries are going to sit idle between seasons I recommend disconnecting cables, put a full charge on battery and charge again once before putting back in use. when a battery sits for any period of time and draws down and sits that way it seems that's when the problems start. I would have the battery tested, a volt meter is not a tester, you need a tester that will tell CCA, voltage and reserve capacity. That will give you the true picture of the integrity of the battery. One thing to always remember when buying a battery.... you get what you pay for. IMO Yuasa for powersports and Deka or Penn for all others.