Going to change out a track in the next week or so on a Polaris Fusion with about 5,000 miles or so. Should I change the jackshaft/driveshaft bearings at the same time? Or just see if they feel rough when they are turned by hand. Anything else to change at the same time?
When to change jackshaft/crankshaft bearings
- Thread starter Hoosier
- Start date
D.B. Cooper
Member
You're on overtime, I.M.O.
When you purchase the (P.T.O. side, radius-ed outer race) bearings for both jack-shaft and drive-shaft, you'll want the ones with the pin-holed outer race so that (when aligned properly upon installation) you can grease them.
I grease my sled before each trip after it's been in a heated garage to melt the snow and ice. EVERY time, I see water being pushed out of the bearings
I've seen bearings at the POLARIS dealer, with NO friggin' hole in the outer race, so watch out for that!!!
While it's apart, I'd recommend changing BOTH bearings in the chain case (square edge outer race) as well
indy_500
Well-known member
X2 I usually change mine yearly for cheap insurance.
http://www.kenssports.com/eshopprod...ct_1045168.Polaris_Driveline_Bearing_And_.htm
I was going to buy a kit like this - brand name is All balls. Does that work or is there something better or cheaper? You're saying change the 2 bearings the gears ride on in the chaincase at the same time? Is there a better source than OEM? I haven't priced them
I was going to buy a kit like this - brand name is All balls. Does that work or is there something better or cheaper? You're saying change the 2 bearings the gears ride on in the chaincase at the same time? Is there a better source than OEM? I haven't priced them
D.B. Cooper
Member
For for the most part, there are (2) DIFFERENT types of bearings in the chassis / drive-train of the POLARIS sled
1) The chain case bearings are the same as the idler wheel bearings, POLARIS must buy 'em by the train car load. Basic standard "square edge" bearing. I buy 'em (10) at a time, and keep 'em in the tool box. I thought these were around $ 12 a piece????? NO radius-ed outer race, no pin holed outer race!!!!
2) The P.T.O. side, BOTH jack-shaft AND Drive-shaft are SAME RADIUS-ed outer race bearings (ONLY 2 per ENTIRE SLED!) but obviously different than the chain-case and idler wheel bearings. These radius-ed outer race bearings are MORE EXPENSIVE, I thought around $ 25 or so ?????? This is where you want the pin-holed outer race!!! and make sure to ALIGN the PIN HOLE with ZERK fitting on the flangette so you can grease it!!!
POLARIS bearings weren't too crazy $$$$, but I got mine from MOTION industries (formerly BERRY bearing) Try to buy NAME BRAND such as NTN, stay away from CHINESE bearings, as a GENERAL rule
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Thanks for the advice, again. I'll plan to change out the chain-case bearings at the same time.
Looks like Polaris uses different part numbers for the chaincase bearing and the idler bearings, at least for the 06 Fusion. The chaincase bearings are part number 3514309 with a price of about $15. The idler bearings are part number 3514384 and are about $10. Are they really the same parts? I'd like to buy all the parts before I tear it apart. Last time I had my skid out all the bearings seemed fine, but I'll probably pick up a few extra bearings just in case.
indy_500
Well-known member
All my sleds, chaincase and idler bearing were the same.
D.B. Cooper
Member
Should be same top & bottom bearings in chain case
the IQ you had also?
Ok, I'm going to finally order the parts tomorrow. How hard is it to take the jackshaft out? I know I need to take the driveshaft out, obviously, to get the track out. Just wondering how much trouble it is to get the jackshaft out and if I really need to change that bearing. The only time I ever changed a track we didn't mess with the bearings at all. If I do need to change that bearing, I'll order the jackshaft bearing, the driveshaft bearing, the 2 chaincase bearings, and the 2 seals on the chaincase side. Do I need anything else?
Is there a good step-by-step guide to doing this somewhere? I think I can figure it out, but not sure where to use locktight, how much to torque down bolts, etc. Edit - never mind, looks like the service manual has some good instructions.
Is there a good step-by-step guide to doing this somewhere? I think I can figure it out, but not sure where to use locktight, how much to torque down bolts, etc. Edit - never mind, looks like the service manual has some good instructions.
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As others said, if you are in there, its piece of mind to change all those bearings and up to you. I swapped out a track on my kids 99 XC 500 this summer with 9000+ miles. Just checked them out to see if there was any roughness to them spinning, and if they were well greased/oiled when it came apart. All were good, didn't replace a single bearing. 550 miles so far this year, and a mid season greasing already, no issues. Knock on wood!
indy_500
Well-known member
Yeah polaris probably sells Chinese knockoffs now for idler bearings and gives out the good stuff for chaincase that's my guess
Predator 121". $400 shipped from tracksusa. Probably order it tomorrow. I thought about going with the Cobra but didn't think it would be worth the extra $100 for a 2006 sled. I only ride about 7-10 days a year on a good year, so I try to keep the costs down. I had a ripsaw on my last sled and didn't like it in loose snow. I haven't had studs before so I didn't look into the Ice Ripper. I looked used for a long time but can't seem to find anything 1.25" or 1.5" less than $250 before shipping, which I don't think is a good value compared to new.
The stock track on my Fusion sucks IMO and now it's worse as it's missing about 1/3 of the lugs. Not sure how that happened since I ride the same places everyone else I ride with does. The only theory I have it has a habit of building up ice in the tunnel and it scraped on that too many times.
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That stinks! Looks like you'll be in the garage at night this week! An 2010 IQ in my group lost that bearing with low miles also, which is another season I thought it would better to skip the cheap bearings.