When to change jackshaft/crankshaft bearings

[indy_500]

Predator 121". $400 shipped from tracksusa. Probably order it tomorrow. I thought about going with the Cobra but didn't think it would be worth the extra $100 for a 2006 sled. I only ride about 7-10 days a year on a good year, so I try to keep the costs down. I had a ripsaw on my last sled and didn't like it in loose snow. I haven't had studs before so I didn't look into the Ice Ripper. I looked used for a long time but can't seem to find anything 1.25" or 1.5" less than $250 before shipping, which I don't think is a good value compared to new.

The stock track on my Fusion sucks IMO and now it's worse as it's missing about 1/3 of the lugs. Not sure how that happened since I ride the same places everyone else I ride with does. The only theory I have it has a habit of building up ice in the tunnel and it scraped on that too many times.

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That stinks! Looks like you'll be in the garage at night this week! An 2010 IQ in my group lost that bearing with low miles also, which is another season I thought it would better to skip the cheap bearings.

I think I'm going to try and fix it at work. Heat. Cranes. Forklifts. Sounds much easier than -10 with a windchill of -50 in an unheated garage

 

[Hoosier]

I think I'm going to try and fix it at work. Heat. Cranes. Forklifts. Sounds much easier than -10 with a windchill of -50 in an unheated garage

Good thinking. I work in an office, so I'm not sure how that work for me!

Plus my sled is stored 150 miles north so I have to plan. I do have access to a heated garage full of tools up there, so that's where I'll work - I just need to plan everything in advance.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

You may want to check with KEN'S SPORTS in KauKana Wisc

When I checked pricing on a 1-3/8" COBRA, they were less $$$$$$ than Tracks USA

Predator 121". $400 shipped from tracksusa. Probably order it tomorrow. I thought about going with the Cobra but didn't think it would be worth the extra $100 for a 2006 sled. I only ride about 7-10 days a year on a good year, so I try to keep the costs down. I had a ripsaw on my last sled and didn't like it in loose snow. I haven't had studs before so I didn't look into the Ice Ripper. I looked used for a long time but can't seem to find anything 1.25" or 1.5" less than $250 before shipping, which I don't think is a good value compared to new.

The stock track on my Fusion sucks IMO and now it's worse as it's missing about 1/3 of the lugs. Not sure how that happened since I ride the same places everyone else I ride with does. The only theory I have it has a habit of building up ice in the tunnel and it scraped on that too many times.

- - - Updated - - -



That stinks! Looks like you'll be in the garage at night this week! An 2010 IQ in my group lost that bearing with low miles also, which is another season I thought it would better to skip the cheap bearings.

 

[Hoosier]

Cobra is about the same at ken's and tracksusa...it might be slightly less at ken's but their shipping was more

 

[Hoosier]

I think I'm going to try and fix it at work. Heat. Cranes. Forklifts. Sounds much easier than -10 with a windchill of -50 in an unheated garage

You've switched out tracks and bearings before. How long does it take to change out? Any tricks to the trade? I'll have a sled lift, service manual, the help of a retired mechanic (my Dad) and all the tools I think I'd need. Have changed out a track before but didn't touch the bearings.

 

[indy_500]

You've switched out tracks and bearings before. How long does it take to change out? Any tricks to the trade? I'll have a sled lift, service manual, the help of a retired mechanic (my Dad) and all the tools I think I'd need. Have changed out a track before but didn't touch the bearings.

For me 2.5 hrs working very casually. I like adjustable chain hoist or engine hoist or overhead crane. When putting suspension back in keep the load off torsion springs to line up rear torque arm mount hole bolts then push them up on the rollers after its bolted in. Red loctite the suspension mount bolt holes I've had blue loosen up. I tighten those bolts tight as I can get them with a 3/8" drive hand ratchet. Tension track 7/8" sag with no weight on the track (free hanging) 16" from rear bogey wheels. Also you'll probably loosen up 1 of the bolts on the rear axle make sure to put red or blue loctite on that bolt before reinstalling I've also had those back out. I believe you have to take chaincase out of that sucker as I did on my iq to get the driveshaft in and out. 19 ft lbs and red loctite on bottom gear bolt. Finger tighten 1/4 turn loosened fr chain tension. Do this before you put cover on and make sure you have the slack out of the chain (push sled back n forth). When putting together speedo side housing make sure to line up the grease hole on bearing with the grease zerk. Sure I'm missing a few more tips but Thats is all for now while I sit on my phone ready to go to bed after another fun night at work!!

 

[Bradzoo]

Make sure you have a set of good snap ring pliers for the bearings in the chain case

Bradzoo

 

[tgun]

The driveshaft bearing is pressed on. Not sure if you have a press or not. If dealer is close they will do it.

 

[bigred_tr]

The chain case needs to be removed which will slide off that side of the shaft. As the others said the other bearing is pressed on and we use a hammer drill to remove the bearing off the shaft. To press on you can use a variety of ways using your bench vise.

Google it. Videos out there that help.

Good Luck !

BR

 

[Hoosier]

The chain case needs to be removed which will slide off that side of the shaft. As the others said the other bearing is pressed on and we use a hammer drill to remove the bearing off the shaft. To press on you can use a variety of ways using your bench vise.

Google it. Videos out there that help.

Good Luck !

BR

Thanks. Finally ordered the track today. Going to do the job next Saturday. Since my sled isn't stored at my house, I'll basically just have one full Saturday to get it done, so I want to make sure I have everything I need ahead of time.

 

[Hoosier]

So when I swapped the track out a couple weeks ago, I forgot to line up the hole on the driveshaft bearing with the grease fitting, even though several people reminded me to do so. I assume I can take the housing off and then spin the bearing without taking too much apart again? The bearing had plenty of grease when I put it together so I'm not concerned in the short run but wouldn't want to leave it that way.

 

[soxfan3]

Just found this older thread.

Would the drive shaft bearing going out on clutch side cause the digital display to go haywire as well? If bearing was bad, I am sure the speed sensor would act up, but would that cause the display to act weird? My gauges started acting up, would come & go, then speed display went dead, tach would work on & off. After a day, drive shaft finally broke, I think because of bad bearing. I greased it, but have read various conflicting things on that design. Could this also cause the digital display problem or do I have 2 separate things going on? Have read about wire harness under exhaust rubbing on frame.

 

[1flatlander2]

sounds like you have a ground issue. check you wires

 

[fastmod62]

Or voltage converter going to ****.