Which Inline Trailer Mfg would you recommend and why ?

UP RIDER

New member
I tow several trailers as well, like snoluver said a tandem axle trailer will tow much better then a single without a doubt. For sleds And SxS we have a Aluma 16x7 v nose utility , I have no problem loading both Sleds from the back and have two shelves in the v. The Aluma is a little more plain looking then some of the others but very well built. The exterior has only a few fasteners showing on a couple of trim pieces.
 

dfattack

Well-known member
I have had a legend for 8 years now and like it. it tows great, especially when I upgraded my truck from a 1/2 ton SUV to a Denali HD duramax. Wow what a difference. I do have a couple issues with my trailer however, the vertical seams in some places are separating and don't like that I'm going to have to deal with that. On one of my fuel doors (which I don't even use) the finish seems like it pitted a little. I ordered a new fuel door and they changed the design and will not reproduce the previous design to match the original. I have a total of three fuel doors and would like them to be the same. I know the vertical seems can be fixed so not a big deal but wanted to point it out.

I don't want to hijack this thread so will ask how to fix/glue this issue in another thread.
 

parker

Member
Tandem Axles it is.

It "rains" (condensation form temp change) every day inside my Triton Clam. This is why I cover my sleds even inside the trailer.
I'm sure an Un-insulated Inline does the same thing.
Will an Finished Insulated Interior "condensate" ? Probably not if the ceiling is finished BUT ..if it is finished and you have insulation between the finish and the aluminum roof won't that be a Mold Factory ?
 

wheels006

Member
RC Trailer: 17'+4'V. 3place 7' inline and have had 4 in it. Finish was best from what I compared. Have had 2 warranty issues, but handled immediately. Doesn't have a vent, but I store it indoors in the summer, not sure if it will be an issue or not. I did have condensation with fluctuating temps too.
 

mrbb

Well-known member
vents are important and can be added
when you pull a HOT sled (or a few) into a cold trailer the heat as no where to go, so its not just about storing a sled in them that can be a issue!
 

1fujifilm

Well-known member
I went from a Triton Clam shell 12' to a Stealth 7.5x14' w/ 5' V. Its considered a 2 place but I have fit three 137" sled in it. With two sleds it in you have plenty of room for gear. I also considered going with the 18' plus V and I'm glad I didn't go that route. These inline trailers are much larger then the clam shells. 90% of the time I only need to haul 2 sleds so the smaller trailer is better for storage, pulling and parking at the cabin. I also love the 7.5' wide.

Many brands are excellent as fellas have said in this thread.
I have a 3 year Stealth that I rocket dealed on. it fits my sled and Ranger so it works for me.
A wise sled dealer once told me; "only a few men can buy expensive sleds but many men can buy inexpensive as long as condition is good". So far the Stealth is holding up fine and I should be able sell her on the good once I decide to.

Bear
 

blkhwkbob

Active member
vents are important and can be added
when you pull a HOT sled (or a few) into a cold trailer the heat as no where to go, so its not just about storing a sled in them that can be a issue!
The heat becomes cold.

- - - Updated - - -

Tandem Axles it is.

It "rains" (condensation form temp change) every day inside my Triton Clam. This is why I cover my sleds even inside the trailer.
I'm sure an Un-insulated Inline does the same thing.
Will an Finished Insulated Interior "condensate" ? Probably not if the ceiling is finished BUT ..if it is finished and you have insulation between the finish and the aluminum roof won't that be a Mold Factory ?
What if you just stick something under the cap and let it breathe a little?
 

ftroop4

New member
I have a Lightning 29' v nose trailer. I love how it pulls right up until there is a wind blowing at an angle with the front and I'm in heavy traffic. It gets to be a real handful when semis are passing you. They pull you over to them then push you away as they go by. If I'm running all alone it hangs right behind you. I really think it is because of the sharp "V" in the front. The turbulence is trying to go one way or the other at the v. I'm thinking maybe a v nose type that has a little bit of rounded nose at the front tip would be better.
 

rozzy43

Member
I bought the 7 X 27 lightning trailer this year and really like it. I like that the trailer tires are set back and off to the side and its low profile to the ground to, ( which comes in handy when you have a blown up sled to pull into it. lol )
 

wisco-mb

Active member
RC Trailer: 17'+4'V. 3place 7' inline and have had 4 in it. Finish was best from what I compared. Have had 2 warranty issues, but handled immediately. Doesn't have a vent, but I store it indoors in the summer, not sure if it will be an issue or not. I did have condensation with fluctuating temps too.

I'm looking at their trailers right now. Haven't seen too many comments, good or bad. Finish looked good from pics. Glad to hear they took care of warranty work quick.
 

wiharley02

Member
I like my legend, but as others said, most are not without their problems. A lot to do with the environment that we tow them in! I don't have any direct experience with other manufacturers. Went with legend due to axle placement further back for better handling. When looking at trailers, consider some of these things: Where is the emergency brake battery located, accessible for charging/maintenance, or stuck up underneath trailer hidden by frame rail. That's not great for accessibility as well as the corrosion issues. Also look at where the wiring/junction box is, the transition from the molded 7-way jacketed wire to all of the individual wires going to various lights. One brand I looked at, this junction box was nothing more than a galvanized steel construction box, residential style, underneath the trailer tucked up by the frame rails, right next to the brake battery. Not the greatest location, would be a corrosion nightmare in a couple years, especially considering a lot of manufacturers use basic non-shrink seal splice connectors. I've seen regular wire nuts used with no tape on some. A purpose built trailer wiring junction box, located inside the trailer is a step in the right direction. These were things that steered me to legend as well. This was 6 years ago, so I'm not sure if any things have changed for the good or bad with manufacturers. I looked at Royal Cargo trailers back then, and was turned off by the lower quality of the wiring. Maybe they've changed.
 

longtrack

Member
When you order a Trailer you can place the Axles anywhere you want. I am on my 4th enclosed Trailer and always ended up buying another cheap one make in Elkhart or Bristol,IN.

Now I have a 29 x 8.5 Haulmark and it is ok. I special ordered it and some of the things wrong with it was, 5000 lb D Ring not bolted down, Wood Trim strips on Floor that I removed, 2 Tires that only had rubber Caps on the Valve Stem. I also had to add Lights on both sides so I could see the Trailer behind me at night.

This one seems to stronger than my old Stealth, it liked to bend and flex a lot.

I replaced every zinc coated Bolt on the Trailer with Stainless Steel Bolts.

One of the best things I did with this one is Diamond Plate inside on the lower Walls, and on the top of both Doors.

You pay for what you get and if you don't want to spend a lot of time fixing a new Trailer after you get it, don't be cheap. I spent 14k and still fixed for 2 weeks before I got this one right.
 

parker

Member
I have not even thought about the wiring location issue - Thank you wiharley02

All your comments and consideration points are great, and very much appreciated.
 

wheels006

Member
I also added a small battery on the tongue to power the lights when not hooked up. I think they used a rake battery for it. It was around $125 to do this and worth every penny!
 
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