121" to 136" or 121" to 144" extension

[rvrbum4]

I am thinking about stretching my '02 XCSP 600 to get a beter ride on the moguled trails. I am trying to decide between a 136" straight extension or the 144" tip-up extension. Is the extra length of the 144 really any better than the 136? If I put the 144" tip-up on it do I need to add wheels to the skid at the point where it tips up?
Kurt

 

[booondocker]

If you aren't going off trail, then there is little difference between the two. The whole point of adding track is to get more bridging and 8 inches is just a bit more. As for the tipped up rails, this gives the effect of the 136 without having to "drag" the longer track on turns. The longer track with the curved rails gives you the 136 effect on packed trail, and the extra 8 works well in the powder.

I don't think you need any extra wheels on this set up.

Personally, I would go all the way...really can't hurt (other than a bit more hit to the wallet) and you will have a bit more track to hook up with. And if you do hit some loose snow...you will appreciate the longer track.

 

[ezra]

I think with the 144 you will need to re gear with the 136 it would be a good Idea to re gear but you can get away with not re gearing.there are alot of verry low milage 136rip saws out there

 

[zimmbob]

I'm with boondocker. Go to 144 right away. Benfits in the trail and off, if you find yourself there. I did my 06 Fusion to 144" and it was great. Don't need any extra wheels. Actually, I moved my outside rear boggys to the inside with an axel kit for an RMK, and that looked cool and helped with turning by letting the track flex a little more in the back (in deep snow). www.TracksUSA.com has everything you need, and might even have a used track for you. That's where I got my extension kit from. They are great people.

As ezra said, you will want to go down a gear tooth or two. I'd look up the same year set up for the RMK and find the gears for that sled, and buy those to use. You'll lose top end speed no matter what, but it'll be a good ride, and hook up like crazy.

 

[zimmbob]

I just looked up your sled, and you have a 23 tooth top and a 39 tooth bottom sprocket. The 2002 RMK 600 136 uses a 19/39, and the 2002 RMK 700 144 uses the same. So it looks like if you just change your top gear to a 19 tooth, you'll get the torque you need to pull that bigger track around. If you don't like the idea of going down 4 teeth, go down to a 20 or 21. Might be harder on the clutch though.

 

[rvrbum4]

Has anyone out there gone to a 136 or 144 without changing gears? What if any are the adverse effects of long track without lower gear?
Kurt

 

[indy_500]

Has anyone out there gone to a 136 or 144 without changing gears? What if any are the adverse effects of long track without lower gear?
Kurt

You won't be getting full power out of your sled without swapping out to a lower gear ratio. Swapping gears is super easy by the way

 

[rmk4ever]

You will be in there any how with the track swap, gears are cheap. Clutches are not.

 

[booondocker]

It depends upon how you ride. I think that gearing is over played some if you don't have to pin the throttle all the time. Even the manufacturers play a middle of the road game on that one and if you don't use the sled quite how the maker expects, you will not have the ideal gearing set.

If you are going to gear down, don't mess around with a "half-way" job. Take it down two more than you thought you should and you won't regret it. It saves on belts which aren't cheap and you won't be able to be a lake racer, but with the longer track and better gearing you will NOT recognize your sled...it will perform that much better.

Personally nearly all sleds are set to go high rates of speed and 75% or more could use a gear reduction whether they change out to longer tracks or not.

It makes your sled very torquey...down low and no doubt will save on the whole drive train.

But hey...that's just my two cents worth!

 

[rvrbum4]

OK, next question. If I regear, I'm assuming I also need to replace the chain because the original chain will be too long. Right??
Now with track, rail extensions, tunnel extension, gears, chain, seals and/or bearings(as long as it's torn apart) I'm looking at over $1,000 in parts alone. Not sure if I want to dive into this or not, one sled wouldn't be bad but I should do my wifes sled too. ('99 XC 500) Would I be able to get my money back out of hers in a couple years?

 

[indy_500]

OK, next question. If I regear, I'm assuming I also need to replace the chain because the original chain will be too long. Right??
Now with track, rail extensions, tunnel extension, gears, chain, seals and/or bearings(as long as it's torn apart) I'm looking at over $1,000 in parts alone. Not sure if I want to dive into this or not, one sled wouldn't be bad but I should do my wifes sled too. ('99 XC 500) Would I be able to get my money back out of hers in a couple years?

Depending on how drastic of a gear change you do, you do not need to switch chains. To adjust chain tension, just finger tighten the chain adjuster and let out 1/4 turn and your good. As for bearings, you don't need to replace the bearings in the chaincase. With the chaincase oil in there, they don't go bad as easily as the driveshaft and jackshaft ones on the clutch side do. Also, try and get the bearings somewhere other than a dealer, dealer markup is a lot on bearings, i get mine at ray's cycle in medina, wi from now on. Good prices there

 

[elf]

I stretched a 2003 600XCSP to a 136 x 1.75 track and was really happy with it. As far as regearing I just changed the top gear one tooth, kept the same chain, and was fine.

Your last question though, "will I get my money out of it?" The answer is no, not if you have $1000 worth of parts into a 8 yr and 11 yr old machine. What you will have is a machine you enjoy more and can do more with.

 

[xcr440]

You will almost NEVER get your money back on a modded ANYTHING.

Modding a sled is just to make it fit your riding preferences, if you don't feel like laying out more cash for a newer sled that might.

 

[xc700LP]

Has anyone out there gone to a 136 or 144 without changing gears? What if any are the adverse effects of long track without lower gear?
Kurt

I put a 136x2" in my 700xc two years ago and only tightened the spring in the secondary one notch and it ran fine. Now i'm switching to a 151x2" for this track i'm switching to a 19x40 gear ratio. Good luck

 

[xc700LP]

OK, next question. If I regear, I'm assuming I also need to replace the chain because the original chain will be too long. Right??
Now with track, rail extensions, tunnel extension, gears, chain, seals and/or bearings(as long as it's torn apart) I'm looking at over $1,000 in parts alone. Not sure if I want to dive into this or not, one sled wouldn't be bad but I should do my wifes sled too. ('99 XC 500) Would I be able to get my money back out of hers in a couple years?

The only way to get most your money back is to part it out and sell it in pieces

 

[misty_pines]

I extended my 121" to 136" with no gearing changes and love the performance. Still winds out to top RPMs with no problems. My friend went from 121" to 144" also with no gearing changes and has no performance issues either.

 

[indy_500]

I extended my 121" to 136" with no gearing changes and love the performance. Still winds out to top RPMs with no problems. My friend went from 121" to 144" also with no gearing changes and has no performance issues either.

hows your friends clutch doing?

 

[misty_pines]

hows your friends clutch doing?

My clutch is fine and so is my friends. Neither of our clutches are running noticibly hotter than before and the belts are wearing well also. We've been riding with the extensions for 3 seasons now with one trip to the mountains each year also.

 

[snobinge]

I have done the 121-136 and the next year I went to 144. If you are only looking for a better ride through moguls on the trail...only go 136. I would assume you would be looking for a 1.25 track. There are a ton of take-off 136's in that size paddle. You will be able to do this mod a lot cheaper if you are looking for a trail track in a 136 length vs. either length in a 1.75 or 2". If you are going to get into off-trail riding go with the 144. You will definitly want to gear down 2 teeth on the top. Buy your bearings at Fastenal. You may be able to find used extensions, otherwise go to tracks usa. You will easily find a 136 trail track used for cheap on this or other sites. As far as getting your $ back...Not a chance.

 

[ezra]

OK, next question. If I regear, I'm assuming I also need to replace the chain because the original chain will be too long. Right??
Now with track, rail extensions, tunnel extension, gears, chain, seals and/or bearings(as long as it's torn apart) I'm looking at over $1,000 in parts alone. Not sure if I want to dive into this or not, one sled wouldn't be bad but I should do my wifes sled too. ('99 XC 500) Would I be able to get my money back out of hers in a couple years?

swap meet no more than 450 bucks. your chain should be ok. and I have never gotten money out of a sled buy them bounce them off the trees for 3 yrs sell them for less than 1/2 you payed and move on to the next loss.but what a fun wast of money it is.don't even get me started on the money I have {lost] on drag sleds over the yrs. but I enjoy wrenching on a clean performance machine almost as much as driving one. so money well spent to make me zone out and forget all the other BS in life when in the shop tuning.