2000 indy wont start, low compression, worth rebuild?
- Thread starter jonesin
- Start date
Yes, I used a spark tester and it looks good
I heard the same about the seals sucking air in, I guess it makes sense that there wasnt a mess
On line it looks like the crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case as long as you are carefull when putting them back in, is that true?
Crank seals are cheap, tempted to give that a try
I just wish I could get an answer to the question would bad crank seals reduce the compression
I wouldnt think so but if it does that would explain a lot......
I heard the same about the seals sucking air in, I guess it makes sense that there wasnt a mess
On line it looks like the crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case as long as you are carefull when putting them back in, is that true?
Crank seals are cheap, tempted to give that a try
I just wish I could get an answer to the question would bad crank seals reduce the compression
I wouldnt think so but if it does that would explain a lot......
Bad seals will not affect compression. Unless they melt a hole in the Pistons 
Can you test another sled to see if your gauge reads low?
How far will the spark jump, it should jump a 1/4" or so.
Did you try bypassing the throttle safety switch?
Will it fire with starting fuild?
Can you test another sled to see if your gauge reads low?
How far will the spark jump, it should jump a 1/4" or so.
Did you try bypassing the throttle safety switch?
Will it fire with starting fuild?
Last edited:
No, I tried that....
Is it a auto compression gauge? If so that is why it may read low.
It has a throttle safety switch, that is why there is a slot where the finger throttle pivots and a pin that pushes in a switch on the throttle block. Take off your handle bar cover and unplug the wires going into the throttle block, make sure your throttle is not sticking before you try to start it, this will also disable the kill button. If it starts now it may not be a bad switch, you may need to adjust your throttle cables for more Freeplay.
It has a throttle safety switch, that is why there is a slot where the finger throttle pivots and a pin that pushes in a switch on the throttle block. Take off your handle bar cover and unplug the wires going into the throttle block, make sure your throttle is not sticking before you try to start it, this will also disable the kill button. If it starts now it may not be a bad switch, you may need to adjust your throttle cables for more Freeplay.
I will look, but on line the diagram doesnt show a switch or pin, the only wire on the throttle body should be the kill switch
It's possable that the kill switch circuit is also used by the throttle safety switch , all modern snowmobiles have some form, Polaris has them built into the throttle block,just unplug the wires coming out and see if it will start then at least you will know the problem is not in the kill switch or safety.
Even though 85psi of compression is low it should fire with starting fluid so I am thinking you have a spark issue, they sell spark testers that have a adjustable gap to see how far a spark will jump. If the spark is weak I would suspect a bad coil or stator.
You were right, there are 3 plugs
I disconnected them and didnt get any response, still nothing
I will check out the spark "testers" using my in line light and just laying the plug on the block shows a lot of spark...
thanks!
I disconnected them and didnt get any response, still nothing
I will check out the spark "testers" using my in line light and just laying the plug on the block shows a lot of spark...
thanks!
I am fricken out of ideas, compression (even 85psi) starting fluid and spark it should start.
I would think even if the reed valves are bad it would start, can you pull them or is a 550 fan, those engines have the reeds between the head and the case so you have to pull the cyl off.
I am out of ideas too
its liquid cooled, I looked at diagrams on line and didnt find the reeds... I will have to look again
I am going to get the compression tester again and see what it is on just the one initial pull instead of pulling 3-4 times until the gage stops rising, that was how I always thought you did it, maybe it is lower with just one pull....
I am about ready to just pull the carbs out of curiosity even though it was running great moments before
I am ready to pull the head off to see the pistons and rings clearly
its liquid cooled, I looked at diagrams on line and didnt find the reeds... I will have to look again
I am going to get the compression tester again and see what it is on just the one initial pull instead of pulling 3-4 times until the gage stops rising, that was how I always thought you did it, maybe it is lower with just one pull....
I am about ready to just pull the carbs out of curiosity even though it was running great moments before
I am ready to pull the head off to see the pistons and rings clearly
Throttle wide open 3 full pulls is correct for compression test. now I am wondering if it is out of time too, you would probably have to pull the engine to check, its possable the the the crank went of of phase. The cranks are pressed together so you can install bearings and the press fit can slip, not sure how to check with engine together, maybe someone else has an idea.
The reeds will be between the carbs and the cylinder, I would think that the pedals would have to be really screwed up to keep it from starting though.
One more long shot is look on the front of the block to see if you can access the crankcase drains down low on the block and open them to make sure the crankcase is not full of gas, then drain the carbs, then pour a table spoon of known good gas and give it a try. that would insure that a slug of really bad gas or water isn't sitting in there.
The reeds will be between the carbs and the cylinder, I would think that the pedals would have to be really screwed up to keep it from starting though.
One more long shot is look on the front of the block to see if you can access the crankcase drains down low on the block and open them to make sure the crankcase is not full of gas, then drain the carbs, then pour a table spoon of known good gas and give it a try. that would insure that a slug of really bad gas or water isn't sitting in there.
A little late to ask now, but this is a 2000 Polaris Indy 500 twin cylinder? ......
http://www.polarispartshouse.com/oe...f87002368411c681/2000-500-indy-s00sb4bs-parts
http://www.polarispartshouse.com/oe...f87002368411c681/2000-500-indy-s00sb4bs-parts