2000 indy wont start, low compression, worth rebuild?

J

jonesin

Well-known member
Videos for everything, thanks!
ill check the tool out or maybe buy new parts...
its raining today or I'd run it longer with new gas, I swear it smells sweet, kinda like antifreeze and my head gasket is a little wet
i know I had to keep an eye on it after it was built and re torqued the bolts I wonder if the gasket might have finally gone..
so many possibilities so little knowledge with these motors on my end

actually kinda like trying to figure it out though, can't afford to spend a bunch
thanks for the ideas!

i was pretty happy with the acceleration and the way it starts considering it wouldn't even try to fire last week...

- - - Updated - - -


Videos for everything, thanks!
ill check the tool out or maybe buy new parts...
its raining today or I'd run it longer with new gas, I swear it smells sweet, kinda like antifreeze and my head gasket is a little wet
i know I had to keep an eye on it after it was built and re torqued the bolts I wonder if the gasket might have finally gone..
so many possibilities so little knowledge with these motors on my end

actually kinda like trying to figure it out though, can't afford to spend a bunch
thanks for the ideas!

i was pretty happy with the acceleration and the way it starts considering it wouldn't even try to fire last week...
 
B

boaski

New member
Anti freeze will smoke like crazy when its burnt in the combustion chamber even the residual will burn in the pipes will smoke after you get it fixed.
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
If it ever stops raining I'm going to run it longer
there was a ton of white smoke the first time I ran it after getting it running three days ago but I even dumped fuel out of exhaust so i want to get it fully warmed up and see if it is still smoking, prob just my imagination I hope...
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
That little chunk I found under the needle was the tip, I just pulled both carbs off again and took apart to compare
prob not all my problems but won't hurt to fix!

- - - Updated - - -

That little chunk I found under the needle was the tip, I just pulled both carbs off again and took apart to compare
prob not all my problems but won't hurt to fix!
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
dennis kirk has mikuni needle and seats for less than half the price of OEM, $18 VS $42, $50 more for OEM is it worth it ?
Its a Mikuni carb I would think Mikuni parts are fine, the OEM is probably Mikuni wouldnt you think?
I would rather put the $50 towards a complete gasket and crank bearing set.....
Thanks for all the input, I really hope that this might correct the bogging a little when I try to take off!
needle.JPG
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
I give up
put in new needle and seat and still bogs down bad didn't even take off and rip like last time barely turned around and made it back into barn, grrr
 
L

lak7

Member
It's not that hard to test - just need digital ohm meter.
The hard part can be getting to the wires.
I think it needs to be at "room temperature" for proper testing - with the warm temps, and being able to idle the engine, you might be able to test while on the machine.
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
there is a place near here called All Parts that has been great to me, I go there for parts and advice and they have been helpful, they will even loan me used parts to try....
I bought my needle and seats there yesterday and saw a motor like mine from a 94 on the shelf and the CDI box has appears to have the same color coded wires as mine, I am going to go borrow that tonight and see if it makes a difference... I might have to check and see if the stator etc matches from a 94 to 2000.....
He also offered to let me use a tool to check the rpm on each carb, you take off the airbox and stick it on the carb air intake and it reads the vacume or air speed or something.... I might try that also....

It is just so odd that:
5 days ago I tried to run it and it bogged and barely moved
3 days ago I tried to run it after doing absolutely nothing different to it and it bogged a little on take off but ripped at wot
2 days ago I removed carbs, cleaned them and replaced needles yesterday and it bogged and barely moved...
tonight I will try and run it without doing anything and see what happens just for grins, maybe it will rip accross the field again... lol, prob not ...
I guess that I will put the other CDI on and see what happens
Prob pull the carbs again and see if I made a stupid mistake, I wasnt even drinking much, maybe my concentration was off.....
I will check the idle on the carbs and make sure they match.....
I dont know much about checking the wire resistance etc.....
I am about at the end of my knowledge, hence the reason I check on here everyday...., kinda slow at work right now and no snow so a good time to tear it apart....

- - - Updated - - -

lak7 said:
It's not that hard to test - just need digital ohm meter.
The hard part can be getting to the wires.
I think it needs to be at "room temperature" for proper testing - with the warm temps, and being able to idle the engine, you might be able to test while on the machine.
Click to expand...


It
is located behind the recoil, not sure I could get it started by wrapping and pulling where the recoil hooks up.... but I could try...
 
mezz

mezz

Well-known member
Don't you have an emergency start strap? It wraps around the primary, that's where to start from when recoil is inoperable, or this case, removed.-Mezz
 
L

lak7

Member
It
is located behind the recoil, not sure I could get it started by wrapping and pulling where the recoil hooks up.... but I could try...
Click to expand...

The machine is not running when testing.
You just want the parts warm/room temperature when testing with ohm meter.
Your All Parts place may be able to test for you.
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
mezz said:
Don't you have an emergency start strap? It wraps around the primary, that's where to start from when recoil is inoperable, or this case, removed.-Mezz
Click to expand...

yep,
just never tried it or seen it done but that is what I was thinking too...
then find an ohm meter and what the wires should be reading.....
 
L

lak7

Member
then find an ohm meter and what the wires should be reading.....
Click to expand...
Find your part number, and Google for a 3rd party replacement.
The listing of the replacement will have spec's.
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
lak7 said:
Find your part number, and Google for a 3rd party replacement.
The listing of the replacement will have spec's.
Click to expand...

I
found it, .4 and 165
do you test them from one end to the other or just at any spot on the wire, can a wire read different at different spots or if there is a bad spot will it affect the reading of the entire wire?
 
D

dofo1

Member
Good idea to test the stator so you can check that off the list, the spark plug caps will unscrew off the plug wires, take them off and cut off 1/4" and put them back on or better yet replace them.

I still think you have carb issues, double check your float level, make sure it isn't jammed up and check that the jets didn't fall out, don't laugh it happened to me.I would also pressure test the needle and float, it is possable to get new parts that don't work, you did compare the new parts with the old and replace both needle and seat as a set?
 
J

jonesin

Well-known member
I borrowed a diff cdi box, (same color code wires and sleds matched on line) didnt make a difference, totaly bogged down barely made it back in to shop

I pulled off the airbox, replaced the skinny vent lines between the carbs, balanced the idles of both carbs while running with a gage that goes over the air intake on the carbs and took it out and was definately better
I adjusted the idle down on both a little and seemed even better
The sled still doesnt want to idle down from 3k to 1800 unless I hit the choke but at least it doesnt seem to climb right back up like it used too
I still have hesitation from a dead stop but at least once it gets going it rips

I didnt find an ohm tester, the guy who was going to bring his in forgot, I will keep looking

As much "fun" as this has been I might just take it in to All Parts sat morning and let him tune it or tell me what he thinks is wrong, might cost a little beer but I want to look over his shoulder and see what he does so I will know....
I was in a MUCH better mood when done last night!

- - - Updated - - -

dofo1 said:
Good idea to test the stator so you can check that off the list, the spark plug caps will unscrew off the plug wires, take them off and cut off 1/4" and put them back on or better yet replace them.

I still think you have carb issues, double check your float level, make sure it isn't jammed up and check that the jets didn't fall out, don't laugh it happened to me.I would also pressure test the needle and float, it is possable to get new parts that don't work, you did compare the new parts with the old and replace both needle and seat as a set?
Click to expand...

I
put new caps and plugs on already
I had both carbs apart wednesday night and I am pretty dog gone sure that I put it back together correctly, I hope... :)
I did replace both needles and seats at the same time
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top