Best off-trail upgrade for my 06' 600HO 144" Switchback

[snowdance]

Possibly looking to improve my Switchback's off-trail performance. Doing about 60/40 off-trail vs. trail. maybe 70/30. It has a 1.25" track. I'm thinking that a track upgrade may be my best bet. 1.75" or 2"? Is 2" too much for trail riding or will a pair of scratchers fix that? Or is there something else I can do for improved off-trail riding? Thanks!

 

[ezra]

dump the sway bar. put on a beefy 2 in I think best UP track ever was the old 146 assult track you could spin that thing on a stump all day and never bust a lug but a chalanger would be just fine.
drop the gear raito to help get that fr end up in the air the second you hammer it 2 wheel kit some say they help I cant realy tell but cant hurt.
I have been running up trails with a 2 1/4 for yrs and most of the time never drop my scratchers.
gut that air box let it breath put a 45 piolet in to get that low end stumbel out of it
or go buy a m8 and be done with it

 

[Hoosier]

Can you buy sway bar disconnects for the IQ? I have a Fusion, and I was thinking about stretching it, and was wondering if anyone makes sway bar disconnects for it.

 

[ezra]

once you get use to riding with out a sway you wont want it hooked back up.

 

[mezz]

dump the sway bar. put on a beefy 2 in I think best UP track ever was the old 146 assult track you could spin that thing on a stump all day and never bust a lug but a chalanger would be just fine.
.
I have been running up trails with a 2 1/4 for yrs and most of the time never drop my scratchers.
gut that air box let it breath put a 45 piolet in to get that low end stumbel out of it
or go buy a m8 and be done with it

once you get use to riding with out a sway you wont want it hooked back up.

I have to agree with ezra on both accounts, track & swaybar. I run an 06 x-fire & have done some updates to it by way of Parabolic Skis, telescopic steering post & Mtn bars, not to mention extended from 136" to 144" with a 2" Challenger track. Last weekend, I finally took off the sway bar, & what a world of difference, I should have done it a long time ago. I noticed a big difference off trail & as far as trail use, I liked it better without, instantly. Then again, I am not a big user of the groomed trail. I should have taken ezra's advise on that long ago. I'm sorry I waited so long, it's almost like a different sled.-Mezz

 

[Polarice]

What is the sway bar that you guys are talking about removing?

 

[Hoosier]

I'd like to try this out (next year obviously). I rented an M6 a couple years ago and it obviously didn't have a sway bar, but we didn't ride the trails too much and with the 153" track, it's hard to compare how it handled to my trail sled.

 

[snowdance]

Doing some reading up on removing the sway bar on my sled. I've read that you can't just remove the sway bar. You have to put a stronger front spring to compensate. Anybody have any first hand experience with this switchback?

 

[ezra]

dont you have adjustable spring compressor on that thing? just crank it tighter dont know what the sway bar has to do with spring rate though.I can tell you the 07 rmk in my trailer after first ride the sway bar was removed down and dirty style with no chance for reinstall {sawzall] and I did not feel I needed HD springs.and when letting of the gas in a side hill or carve it no longer had as bad a pull in the oppeset direction it is still no M on a side hill or carve but 60%better than with the training wheels on

 

[Polarice]

Ezra,

I'm actually starting to understand your thread lingo...I think.

Please explain what the sway bar is that you remove. A pic would be glorious

 

[ezra]

Ezra,

I'm actually starting to understand your thread lingo...I think.

Please explain what the sway bar is that you remove. A pic would be glorious

the sway bar is the bar that conects to the lower a arms. the bar that conets to both a arms so if going in to a corner the inside ski compreses and the bar pushes the out side ski down.great right well for that 1 thing yes lets say you hit a bump with the lest ski that also compreses the left arm and pushes down the right arm for no reason.
with sway bar out you have a true independant suspension.if you do not want to leen in to corners then dont disconet.
if you want your sled to roll the way you want it to with body movment IE drive your sled not ride it then yank it out.
on the X fire and the doo you can just get some quick cotterpins and disconect 1 side and put the dog bone back on for trail riding in under 2 min.I did that on my 01 zr but quickley decided I liked it better off.
I keep them in on the wifes sleds she likes to just ride

 

[lakeeffect101]

My best advice for you would be to shorten the ski stance. Buy some used RMK a arms and start there. You will most likely need to buy new shocks and will also involve removing your sway bar. This is you best bang for your buck and it will let you lay it over alot more easily.

 

[Skylar]

2" track, very cheap good used ones on snowest.com, ice scratchers, 225 lb front spring on front track shock, narrower ski stance.

Sway bar is a personal thing, I liked it in my 07 RMK, and will remove it on my new Pro.

 

[snowdance]

I found a good used 2" track off of a summit for $225. 2.52 pitch and ported from the factory. This seems like a pretty good deal. Yes?

 

[doospunk]

Possibly looking to improve my Switchback's off-trail performance. Doing about 60/40 off-trail vs. trail. maybe 70/30. It has a 1.25" track. I'm thinking that a track upgrade may be my best bet. 1.75" or 2"? Is 2" too much for trail riding or will a pair of scratchers fix that? Or is there something else I can do for improved off-trail riding? Thanks!

1.75 is more than sufficient unless you and your buds are getting into some gnarly stuff in the trees with steep inclines. If your talking off trail in the flats, rolling areas, and some hills, consider a 1.75. It's a good choice for on and off trail riding in the midwest. I have (and had) both 1.75 and 2.25 on my sleds the last few seasons, and can honestly say that it was my lack of skill vs the track that got me in most of my predicaments I've had in the yoop. If you can get a 2 inch for same as the 1.75, then go for it. Never know when you might want take it west! At that point, you'll truely appreciate the longer lug.

 

[mezz]

Doing some reading up on removing the sway bar on my sled. I've read that you can't just remove the sway bar. You have to put a stronger front spring to compensate. Anybody have any first hand experience with this switchback?

You can remove it without worry on the springs. As ezra stated, if you want the front shocks stiffer, then adjust the coil over spring. I didn't bother as it really doesn't need it. The idea behind removing it allows to you to lay it the down in the deep easier. Believe me, makes a difference.

I found a good used 2" track off of a summit for $225. 2.52 pitch and ported from the factory. This seems like a pretty good deal. Yes?

That is a good price, but, how used is it? Ported tracks tend to not last too long. My personal preference would be New. You definetly won't regret the 2", I ran a 1.65 previously & I was not overly impressed, much better with the 2.-Mezz

 

[snowdance]

That is a good price, but, how used is it? Ported tracks tend to not last too long. My personal preference would be New. You definetly won't regret the 2", I ran a 1.65 previously & I was not overly impressed, much better with the 2.-Mezz

I'm told no missing lugs or cracks and the corners of the lugs may be a little rounded.

 

[winter_time]

On my dads switchback we found it best to completly change the a arms out put on a arms off of a 2005 rmk it really narrows the front end up and makes this machine fun to ride while boondocking, instead of feeling like you are driving a tank that will not carve with ease.

 

[winter_time]

My best advice for you would be to shorten the ski stance. Buy some used RMK a arms and start there. You will most likely need to buy new shocks and will also involve removing your sway bar. This is you best bang for your buck and it will let you lay it over alot more easily.

The stock shocks will work with a arms from a 2005 but you do have to replace the tie rods. The sway bar can stay on with this set up as well but I would still consider removing it and no you do not have to buy stiffer shocks to compensate what the sway bar does is force the machine to sit more level when cornering.