Buying a sled in the off season

[600_RMK_144]

First purchase is coming in the next few months (used). Need some advice on how to "test drive" a sled when you can't even ride it? How do you confirm it runs good, shifts good, etc, etc, etc? It's a huge deal for me to make this purchase, so I want to make sure I get something that won't have a bunch of problems. Took about ten years to convince the Wife I needed one, if it blows up on my first ride, it may be another ten. LOL! I understand nothing can be certain, but any tips would be great. Thank you!

 

[indy_500]

compression test is a big one...

 

[gary_in_neenah]

Ryan,
Fit & finish, any scrapes, scratches, cracks in molding? Is the track studded? Missing studs, lugs, or holes in the track? Does it start easily and idle? Rev the engine on a stand to spin the track and activate the secondary, do all the gauges on the dash work? How about the steering? Is it sloppy or smooth from side to side? Like Indy said, Compression Test but know the specs beforehand when you test it so you can make an offer if you choose. Where is it stored, outside, clean garage, trailer?

Last, I would post the make and model along with mileage on this thread. There's sure to be some current or past owners that could offer their experience with the same machine. If you care to include the asking price, there's certain to be a boatload of opinions on that too. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Gary

 

[mezz]

compression test is a big one...

I agree with Indy in part, to make things easier on yourself, take someone with you that would know sleds well enough to point out any possible or potential issues. Generally, cosmetics will speak volumes, if it's not beat to death, looks clean, looks as though it has been taken care of, sellers history on the sled i.e. maintanence records etc.... Any time you buy used, there are many unknowns, the more info you can get on the sled & it's history the better.-Mezz

 

[ezra]

real hard to buy used lots if guys wate till summer to sell so you cant test run. they could have a bad crank bearing and it wont get full rpm under load but will on a stand.could have bad crank seal that took out a piston so they slap a new piston in send it down the road you wont know for 50 mi down the trail. could be a ex drag sled less than 1000 mi perfect shape not dirty show room clean but they just took off a set of bb jugs put the stock air box with out NOS injectors in it back in and you have a sled with 1000 mi 660 ft at a time under heavy load.

best to buy from a friend or a good friend of a friend that knows the history and issues unless you really know what you are doing.not trying to scare you but I have seen all the above and more way more from guys in my life.if you have a real POS you send it to auction or haydays never buy from those spots.
some times paying the big bucks for new or new non current and making those payments is the cheepest way to go in the long run.
I dont trust dealers to go over them after a sled I got from out of state payed the dealer to go over one do a pre buyers inspection in CO Vickery motorsports to be exact to make sure I was geting what the guy was saying. not eaven close ended up putting a grand in to it to make it right I dont think no I know Bill Vickers service department did not open the hood for my 200 bucks.
buy new or from a friend or some of the guys on this site with history.
also if looking at a sled from a fourm look up all the guys old posts look up his friends see if he or his buds are on other fourms find his old posts on those fourms to see if he was having issues with the sled in question

 

[Hoosier]

real hard to buy used lots if guys wate till summer to sell so you cant test run. they could have a bad crank bearing and it wont get full rpm under load but will on a stand.could have bad crank seal that took out a piston so they slap a new piston in send it down the road you wont know for 50 mi down the trail. could be a ex drag sled less than 1000 mi perfect shape not dirty show room clean but they just took off a set of bb jugs put the stock air box with out NOS injectors in it back in and you have a sled with 1000 mi 660 ft at a time under heavy load.

best to buy from a friend or a good friend of a friend that knows the history and issues unless you really know what you are doing.not trying to scare you but I have seen all the above and more way more from guys in my life.if you have a real POS you send it to auction or haydays never buy from those spots.
some times paying the big bucks for new or new non current and making those payments is the cheepest way to go in the long run.
I dont trust dealers to go over them after a sled I got from out of state payed the dealer to go over one do a pre buyers inspection in CO Vickery motorsports to be exact to make sure I was geting what the guy was saying. not eaven close ended up putting a grand in to it to make it right I dont think no I know Bill Vickers service department did not open the hood for my 200 bucks.
buy new or from a friend or some of the guys on this site with history.
also if looking at a sled from a fourm look up all the guys old posts look up his friends see if he or his buds are on other fourms find his old posts on those fourms to see if he was having issues with the sled in question

I agree 100% with this. I bought a neglected used sled that looked like brand new but ended up costing me as much as a leftover new one would have, not to mention the headaches. You really are buying the owner when you buy the used sled, particularly if you can't do the repairs yourself.

 

[indy_500]

If it makes you feel any better, everything I've bought from trucks to sleds were a complete gamble, which is also why I got them SOOOOO cheap. But they've all turned out ok

 

[whitedust]

If it makes you feel any better, everything I've bought from trucks to sleds were a complete gamble, which is also why I got them SOOOOO cheap. But they've all turned out ok

You need to know weak points of a sled model & look at those things as well the normal wear stuff plus compression test. Is the crank pushing grease on PTO side I have seen this on doos & you know what is next. Studs tearing up tunnel also not a good sign. Cracks in rear suspension? Also if you don't know how a particular model handles you are totally wasting your time as need to know that 1st!

 

[600_RMK_144]

Good advice here, scared to death now! Wish I could go new (carry over) but don't think that's in the cards. Being an honest man, I find it hard to believe people would do some of the things Hoosier mentioned above. Obviously they don't care, just want to unload it. Very unfortunate! With that said, anyone got a nice, clean, low mileage, well maintained 2009 or newer 600 RMK 144"? HA, had to put it out there! Seriously thou, thanks for the heads up on what to look out for, I'll have to be much more selective than I originally planned. This will help me know what to look for atleast.

 

[alwaysright]

If that's what your looking for keep in mind the poo 600 is a fairly reliable motor. I've got an 09 136 shift I paid 4K for last year, high miles but strong reliable motor. Not for sale but wanted to let you know what I found mine for, take your time and look. Alot of the same sleds were going for over 5K (or asking over 5K), I just held out until I found a good deal, had cash, went and talked to the guy, had a story I believed and made an offer. He had it serviced at the local dealer, I stoped in there before I bought it and talked to the mechanic, who confirmed "high miles, but a good strong sled and shouldn't have any issues"

Also helps alot that he had a new one sitting next to it and this was an extra he wasn't going to use.

 

[ezra]

I think there are a few 2010 600 136 in the new non current market for just 2 grand or less than you want to spend finace it get the 5yr pice of mind.or buy from some one you know

 

[whitedust]

Good advice here, scared to death now! Wish I could go new (carry over) but don't think that's in the cards. Being an honest man, I find it hard to believe people would do some of the things Hoosier mentioned above. Obviously they don't care, just want to unload it. Very unfortunate! With that said, anyone got a nice, clean, low mileage, well maintained 2009 or newer 600 RMK 144"? HA, had to put it out there! Seriously thou, thanks for the heads up on what to look out for, I'll have to be much more selective than I originally planned. This will help me know what to look for atleast.

I thought your last post indicated you found a cherry 600RMK carb? I hope carbs didn't scare you away & should not airboxes can be modified too for easier on & off & don't think you will be jetting much anyway black hills not a big deal & all the rest of the Midwest is the same jetting. I would not eliminate 600RMK carb probably better than some DI engines.

 

[600_RMK_144]

Yes, I was VERY, VERY close to getting that 600RMK carb (cash in hand and all), I managed to talk myself out of it due to the jetting (and it WAS a 6hr drive each way). In the research I did, not only is it the elevation changes you have to compensate for (which I agree I wouldn't deal with much), but also temp changes. I didn't see myself spending my time determining what the temp would be for the next day (s) of riding. As some people mentioned, temps can very greatly from day to day and sometimes even within the same day. PLEASE! If I'm not correct on this, let me know! I could easily handle the elevation changes, but the temp changes would require much forecast watching. Long story short, I decided to wait on (hopefully) finding the same cherry 600RMK in a CFI. Again, if I miss-understood the research I did, please let me know, and maybe I WILL make the journey to go pick up that carb machine.

 

[mezz]

There is no need to be overly concerned with daily forecast watching as far has jets are concerned, unless you are looking for optimal performance continiously. You can change out plugs for warmer day's if needed, however, that is not really necessary. Many of us regularly rode carbed sleds for years & in varieties of temps with no changes really necessary, again, unless of course you are looking for "optimal" performance consistantly. EFI is real nice & has improved over the years & will compensate the minor changes that can happen. Personally, I would not want to go back to a carbed version, however, if I found a real sweet deal on a carbed sled, I might just bite at it.-Mezz

 

[Skylar]

I jetted my 07 600 carbed for 0-20 degrees, and left it that way all winter every winter. I am not that guy who needs every bit of performance, and I RARELY ride when it is -10 or colder out. About the only time I did change jets for temps was when I would be riding in April, and it was going to be 60 degrees or warmer out.

 

[polarisrider1]

I jetted my 07 600 carbed for 0-20 degrees, and left it that way all winter every winter. I am not that guy who needs every bit of performance, and I RARELY ride when it is -10 or colder out. About the only time I did change jets for temps was when I would be riding in April, and it was going to be 60 degrees or warmer out.

Agree, everyone reads to deep into this.

 

[rp7x]

cherry rmk

i'd be driving back, 600 rmk with carbs rock ,

 

[mjkaliszak]

Like mentioned above, you are almost buying the " owner " as well as the sled. It is a poor state that we are in when " the common belief " is " there is a sucker born every minute ". People nowadays are willing to dump their problem onto someone else and get as much money as they can. They are all about them selves or the almighty dollar.

I always like to look around the " holdings " of the proposed seller. Hard to do when you have to drive excessively to get to the location. How does he keep his stuff ? is the place a dump ? is his man cave highly organized, ect.... Just some things to look at.

 

[whitedust]

Temps like over 40F could be a problem but DI fat at 40F too. Carbs are fine & even Black Hills can be ridden with Midwest jetting just will not be optimal" performance lose a few ponies but doable. Most guys fine the 1 jetting set up like Skylar & stick with it. To me DI has problems with too little oil getting where it needs to go in engines due to EPA standards. Lots of DI engine riders are premixing oil in gas tank to insure lube & you don't have that problem with carbs. You will be fine with RMK600 carb maybe better off.

 

[indy_500]

i'd be driving back, 600 rmk with carbs rock ,

x2 i will take carb over cfi any day...