All DI 2s are running way lean for EPA requirements there in is the problem for meltdowns & lean spots older carb engines did not have to run as lean as current DI engines. Keep jets clean & you will have a great sled in 600RMK yes will run fat in 40F but the most I had to do was change plugs when that happened. I don't ride when it is 40F anymore anyway but I'm now riding 150 DI 4s but last sled was carbed 2s 800.
Buying a sled in the off season
- Thread starter 600_RMK_144
- Start date
anonomoose
New member
Not all carbed sleds are the same....and not all makers address all conditions when they build the carbed sleds. Are carbed sleds bad...no! Carbed trucks and cars run all over the place and will for a century or more.
Are they better? Certainly not, as CFI takes a ton of info in and a computer decides between piston strokes what is the best mix for that engine at that moment in time. It is why the car companies and bike makers have all gone to it...you can take into account a warm day, high pressure, extreme cold, and altitude that varies over a few minutes.
It is advanced, and precise and unless you like to run around with the hood off adjusting your sled....you could not begin to adjust the sled as well as CFI does.
Carbs get set and the sled goes....fat or lean, it stays there until you change it. Is that bad? Heck no...are they as fuel efficient, or clean burning...not even close.
But do you buy a sled to run clean? You buy it to have fun...if it gets lousy gas mileage you pony up and pay anyway. If you save $400 dollars in gas mileage over the life of the sled...does it make sense to pay a grand more for a CFI sled...hardly.
Carbs are old technology, CFI are new technology...you decide what you want to spend, and make sure you do your homework about THAT engine and it's issues....and whether it can be corrected reasonably if it does have them. Be more concerned about the chassis and track, suspension and whether those things are what you want.
If you don't know what you are doing...take along a couple of good friends who have been around the block some on buying and riding sleds...the beer you will have to provide them will be cheap compared to what they might spot that you wouldn't have an idea about. Absent of that ability, spend some money having the sled checked out by a good sled shop that is USED to working on THAT particular sled...the couple hundred spent will be well worth it.
Don't bite your finger nails off on this....because you can do a pretty good job of reviewing and deciding even if there is no snow on the ground to test it. Use the advice of others on here and then take your money and go make an informed decision whether you want the sled or need to wait until the weather changes and you can ride it on snow.
Hopefully if you buy in the off season you are already getting a smoking good deal...and the rest isn't worth losing sleep over.
My 2 cents!
Are they better? Certainly not, as CFI takes a ton of info in and a computer decides between piston strokes what is the best mix for that engine at that moment in time. It is why the car companies and bike makers have all gone to it...you can take into account a warm day, high pressure, extreme cold, and altitude that varies over a few minutes.
It is advanced, and precise and unless you like to run around with the hood off adjusting your sled....you could not begin to adjust the sled as well as CFI does.
Carbs get set and the sled goes....fat or lean, it stays there until you change it. Is that bad? Heck no...are they as fuel efficient, or clean burning...not even close.
But do you buy a sled to run clean? You buy it to have fun...if it gets lousy gas mileage you pony up and pay anyway. If you save $400 dollars in gas mileage over the life of the sled...does it make sense to pay a grand more for a CFI sled...hardly.
Carbs are old technology, CFI are new technology...you decide what you want to spend, and make sure you do your homework about THAT engine and it's issues....and whether it can be corrected reasonably if it does have them. Be more concerned about the chassis and track, suspension and whether those things are what you want.
If you don't know what you are doing...take along a couple of good friends who have been around the block some on buying and riding sleds...the beer you will have to provide them will be cheap compared to what they might spot that you wouldn't have an idea about. Absent of that ability, spend some money having the sled checked out by a good sled shop that is USED to working on THAT particular sled...the couple hundred spent will be well worth it.
Don't bite your finger nails off on this....because you can do a pretty good job of reviewing and deciding even if there is no snow on the ground to test it. Use the advice of others on here and then take your money and go make an informed decision whether you want the sled or need to wait until the weather changes and you can ride it on snow.
Hopefully if you buy in the off season you are already getting a smoking good deal...and the rest isn't worth losing sleep over.
My 2 cents!
guess My issue is trusting any one I dont know .any sled I have got in the off season sits there and taunts me till I have no option but to tear it apart. I have to see what I have! then they get pistons because well I already have it apart then those ports are just not smooth then I start to worry about the crank so the case gets split on and on and on like that with me. OCD big time with some of that stuff but I also enjoy it or I would not do it.not as bad as some of my drag racing buds so I still look sain compared to them so I tell my self.
I wont buy unless it is cheep cheep so I can cover my cost of the grand it will cost me to give me a clear mind that it will work the first time I get to ride it 400mi to 1200mi or so from home.I never want to be that guy with the POS messing up other guys time off. but just more OCD on my part
I wont buy unless it is cheep cheep so I can cover my cost of the grand it will cost me to give me a clear mind that it will work the first time I get to ride it 400mi to 1200mi or so from home.I never want to be that guy with the POS messing up other guys time off. but just more OCD on my part
indy_500
Well-known member
I'm the same way, IMO everything is a gamble, I always buy the cheapest machine out there that's in the best shape for the price. You have to stick money into everything basically unless it's brand new...
alwaysright
New member
if it's brand new you usually need to get extra plugs, extra belt, cover, studs (maybe), bigger carbides, extra fuel tank, saddle bags, hot-dogger/muff-pot. Alot of used sleds will come with some these things.
you have to stick money into everything. (period)
you have to stick money into everything. (period)
indy_500
Well-known member
I don't need a cover, studs, extra fuel tank, saddlebags, or a hotdogger, sorry, I'm always right 
If I buy a used sled I buy a new belt for it anyways and new plugs, i dont like plugs rattling around for 5 years with corrosion on them, sorry they're only $1.50 a piece I will buy new ones...
If I buy a used sled I buy a new belt for it anyways and new plugs, i dont like plugs rattling around for 5 years with corrosion on them, sorry they're only $1.50 a piece I will buy new ones...I have a 2006 rmk 600 144 that sled rocks. My buds have 700 and 800 rmks i have no problem keeping up in the woods. The fastest i had mine was 87 . The sled chews up ground so fast you run out of land before top speed. Pulls like a race horse starts on first pull . Make sure updated are done and belt deflection and belt alignment are spot on. Over 10 grand to replace now.