Current polaris owners

stinkstar

Member
I burnt my rush 600 down 2 times! One was dealer air that i know. But I wouldent be blaming the fuel filter.. I changed mine and the motor went 70 miles later... And yes they are a 100 filer. bs!
 

xcsp

Member
I burnt my rush 600 down 2 times! One was dealer air that i know. But I wouldent be blaming the fuel filter.. I changed mine and the motor went 70 miles later... And yes they are a 100 filer. bs!

Ever find out what caused the failure?
 

Hoosier

Well-known member
One of the guys I ride with had the 600 CFI burn down, also blamed on the fuel filter. Less than 3,000 miles on that sled.

What makes this particular fuel filter so expensive? On top of that, it also requires a custom tool to change it.

Another guy I ride with has 10,000 + miles on a cat 700, and the fuel filter is original. Why is the one Polaris uses so prone to getting clogged? I'm assuming this has something to do with the EPA, but I still can't see why a fuel filter should cost $60. Seems like a lot for an annual maintenance item.
 

polarisrider1

New member
One of the guys I ride with had the 600 CFI burn down, also blamed on the fuel filter. Less than 3,000 miles on that sled.

What makes this particular fuel filter so expensive? On top of that, it also requires a custom tool to change it.

Another guy I ride with has 10,000 + miles on a cat 700, and the fuel filter is original. Why is the one Polaris uses so prone to getting clogged? I'm assuming this has something to do with the EPA, but I still can't see why a fuel filter should cost $60. Seems like a lot for an annual maintenance item.

I totally agree. The dang filter looks way over engineered. I suspect because it is on the preasurized side of the fuel pump it has to have possibly some valving inside for flow direction maybe?? A bypass for the filter seems like an answer if back preasure rises, but the nozzle preasure needs to stay constant? First off where is all this junk coming from to stick in the filter. Nasty gas cans???
 
One of the guys I ride with had the 600 CFI burn down, also blamed on the fuel filter. Less than 3,000 miles on that sled.

What makes this particular fuel filter so expensive? On top of that, it also requires a custom tool to change it.

Another guy I ride with has 10,000 + miles on a cat 700, and the fuel filter is original. Why is the one Polaris uses so prone to getting clogged? I'm assuming this has something to do with the EPA, but I still can't see why a fuel filter should cost $60. Seems like a lot for an annual maintenance item.

The so called custom tool costs $ 5 at local pep boys.

It's the same old one used on most late model cars, NOT just POLARIS sleds

The filter comes with both ends of the high pressure fittings crimped on, adds to the cost.

If the filter gets clogged up, how can it be the manufacturer's or sled's fault?

POLARIS recommends to change the filter EACH year

Belts used to be $35.00 now they're $150.00

Price of admission to play the game, that's all it is. Get over it.

There's an alternative NAPA $10.00 filter, it's on SnoWest, you have to change the ends, they use high pressure clamps, I guess it works, I just prefer the factory ends.

Keep in mind there's 59 P.S.I. running through the fuel system 100% of the time, whether at idle or full throttle
 
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Hoosier

Well-known member
The so called custom tool costs $ 5 at local pep boys.

It's the same old one used on most late model cars, NOT just POLARIS sleds

The filter comes with both ends of the high pressure fittings crimped on, adds to the cost.

If the filter gets clogged up, how can it be the manufacturer's or sled's fault?

POLARIS recommends to change the filter EACH year

Belts used to be $35.00 now they're $150.00

Price of admission to play the game, that's all it is. Get over it.

There's an alternative NAPA $10.00 filter, it's on SnoWest, you have to change the ends, they use high pressure clamps, I guess it works, I just prefer the factory ends.

Keep in mind there's 59 P.S.I. running through the fuel system 100% of the time, whether at idle or full throttle

Thanks, the part of your reponse about the tool is helpful. If Polaris requires a new fuel filter every 1,500 miles, it is good to know that at least you don't have to buy an expensive tool to go with it. I have put more miles on that in a single backpacking trip (I'm sure many do this every year), and I definitely would be nervous to do so again if I had a 600 CFI and didn't have a spare filter with me. Particularly if I started with trip with 500 or 700 miles on the existing filter.

As far as your "Get over it" response about the filter price, you must work for Polaris. This is always my favorite response by the way. The $60 isn't that much in the grand scheme of things, but you have to admit it is ridiculous when the competition doesn't seem to have yet developed an expensive fuel filter that is so easily clogged that it is commonly taking down pistons. I've always been a polaris guy but I find this filter issue to be ridiculous. Maybe I'm the crazy one. If you own the sled for 5 years, it will likely only cost you $300, which isn't much compared to the price of the sled, but it's another cost that wasn't there 5 years ago...
 
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One of the guys I ride with had the 600 CFI burn down, also blamed on the fuel filter. Less than 3,000 miles on that sled.

What makes this particular fuel filter so expensive? On top of that, it also requires a custom tool to change it.

Another guy I ride with has 10,000 + miles on a cat 700, and the fuel filter is original. Why is the one Polaris uses so prone to getting clogged? I'm assuming this has something to do with the EPA, but I still can't see why a fuel filter should cost $60. Seems like a lot for an annual maintenance item.

I wouldnt call it a "custom tool" its a simple cheap automotive fuel line tool...not sure on why some Rush 600s are melting down but on the 07-10 IQ 600s the 1 piece intake boots are very prone to delaminating. Most dealers over look that and that is why motors melt down shortly after a rebuild. Every sled that comes through our shop being a 600 or 700 IQ chassis sled we check the intake boots no matter what. The 09-newer 800s went back to individual intake boots between throttle body and reed cages. I havent been into a rush 600 or 800 yet to kno if that was a change. But if anyone is having power or burn down issues check the intake boots before you even blame fuel filter. Yes I still highly recommend changing fuel filter every 2k or before every season so fuel doesnt gum up in there over summer storage. ill try to find a tore boot to take a pic of
 

Hoosier

Well-known member
I wouldnt call it a "custom tool" its a simple cheap automotive fuel line tool...not sure on why some Rush 600s are melting down but on the 07-10 IQ 600s the 1 piece intake boots are very prone to delaminating. Most dealers over look that and that is why motors melt down shortly after a rebuild. Every sled that comes through our shop being a 600 or 700 IQ chassis sled we check the intake boots no matter what. The 09-newer 800s went back to individual intake boots between throttle body and reed cages. I havent been into a rush 600 or 800 yet to kno if that was a change. But if anyone is having power or burn down issues check the intake boots before you even blame fuel filter. Yes I still highly recommend changing fuel filter every 2k or before every season so fuel doesnt gum up in there over summer storage. ill try to find a tore boot to take a pic of

My fusion 600 burned down because of the carb boot. I had a trusted dealer rebuild it so that the cause would be identified. I am not sure if I would have found that if I rebuilt it, so I think it was worth the extra cost.
 
Thanks, the part of your reponse about the tool is helpful. If Polaris requires a new fuel filter every 1,500 miles, it is good to know that at least you don't have to buy an expensive tool to go with it. I have put more miles on that in a single backpacking trip (I'm sure many do this every year), and I definitely would be nervous to do so again if I had a 600 CFI and didn't have a spare filter with me. Particularly if I started with trip with 500 or 700 miles on the existing filter.

As far as your "Get over it" response about the filter price, you must work for Polaris. This is always my favorite response by the way. The $60 isn't that much in the grand scheme of things, but you have to admit it is ridiculous when the competition doesn't seem to have yet developed an expensive fuel filter that is so easily clogged that it is commonly taking down pistons. I've always been a polaris guy but I find this filter issue to be ridiculous. Maybe I'm the crazy one. If you own the sled for 5 years, it will likely only cost you $300, which isn't much compared to the price of the sled, but it's another cost that wasn't there 5 years ago...

I do not work for POLARIS.

I own Sea-Doo, yAMI, + POLARIS, and each has their own quirks.

My informative thread on here is titled TECH TIPS for 600/700/800 CFI'S and BEST BANG for the BUCK, as I expect VALUE for my hard earned dollar.

Point being it costs $$$$$$ to play, I certainly don't like overpaying for anything, and I agree with you 100% that the filter's WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYY OVERPRICED!!!!!!!!!!, it's just that there's NO alternative , so no use in bitchin' about it that's all.

One word of caution, be careful when removing the filter, as even with the engine off, there's still 59 P.S.I. of gasoline in the lines, wrap with a shop rag, wear safety goggles, etc.
 

Hoosier

Well-known member
I do not work for POLARIS.

I own Sea-Doo, yAMI, + POLARIS, and each has their own quirks.

My informative thread on here is titled TECH TIPS for 600/700/800 CFI'S and BEST BANG for the BUCK, as I expect VALUE for my hard earned dollar.

Point being it costs $$$$$$ to play, I certainly don't like overpaying for anything, and I agree with you 100% that the filter's WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYY OVERPRICED!!!!!!!!!!, it's just that there's NO alternative , so no use in bitchin' about it that's all.

One word of caution, be careful when removing the filter, as even with the engine off, there's still 59 P.S.I. of gasoline in the lines, wrap with a shop rag, wear safety goggles, etc.

Makes sense, thanks.. Keep the informative threads coming, they are good for reading.
 

snow_monkey

New member
could it be the way some people break in their new sled? or don't break them in? just sayin'

Did anyone follow the e-tech conspiracy? The theory was if you did not follow the proper break in rules the computer would set the sled up and follow specific mapping guidelines. if you followed the rules you got a better map and a faster sled. I do not buy in but it would make sense. It would protect the manufacture from countless meltdowns and other issues. These claims were made by a few and were fueled by the variations in performance between 2 identical sleds. I followed the rules catch me if you can!!!
 
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snow_monkey

New member
Need I say more? lol I feel bad saying these things when guys are speculating buying one, but when you go on forums and look at the # of guys holding onto their edges for $ and reliability, it amazes you. Then the guys who have newer sleds have nothing but problems. Maybe I'm the problem? :)

It's funny you say this. When I was doing my early shopping for the e-tech you could not dodge the negative claims and comments on doo talk. You go there now and it's an e-tech lovefest with everyone raving about performance and reliability!
 

indy_500

Well-known member
It's funny you say this. When I was doing my early shopping for the e-tech you could not dodge the negative claims and comments on doo talk. You go there now and it's an e-tech lovefest with everyone raving about performance and reliability!

Yeah, It's all about luck. I personally will not buy an efi because I want to be able to tune/work on my sled. If the day comes that I'm so outdated and the only possible choice is to upgrade, I'll be getting a 4-stroke. For now, as long as I can work on my stuff, oil burner it is for me :) I can open my hood, take the airbox off and fog it in less than 5 minutes. If you want to get the airbox of a yamaha phazer (older one) It will take around 2 hours to get the handlebars, windshield, speedo, headlight, console, etc. off in order to take out the stinkin air box!
 

indyxcr

New member
The 2011 800 Pro R Rush I had no problems runs strong, dealer said replace fuel filter the first year, then every other year or 2,000 miles, depends on how good of gas you run.

You play you pay, even the old sleds you needed to replace the fuel filter every year or 2,000 miles.

I always run good gas 92 or 93 octane only, so I only change mine every other year.

My 2009 800 Dragon I only changed my fuel filter once.

Next year new belt and new fuel filter.

Like I said before these new high performance sleds cost a lot for belts, fuel filters, ware bars and other things, so if you don't want these expenses then get a 550 fan or smaller sled.

There is way more hp and power than you could ever get 5, 10 years ago, I like speed and power so I know I will have to pay more for everything.
 

Polarice

New member
I wouldnt call it a "custom tool" its a simple cheap automotive fuel line tool...not sure on why some Rush 600s are melting down but on the 07-10 IQ 600s the 1 piece intake boots are very prone to delaminating. Most dealers over look that and that is why motors melt down shortly after a rebuild. Every sled that comes through our shop being a 600 or 700 IQ chassis sled we check the intake boots no matter what. The 09-newer 800s went back to individual intake boots between throttle body and reed cages. I havent been into a rush 600 or 800 yet to kno if that was a change. But if anyone is having power or burn down issues check the intake boots before you even blame fuel filter. Yes I still highly recommend changing fuel filter every 2k or before every season so fuel doesnt gum up in there over summer storage. ill try to find a tore boot to take a pic of

So you're saying that they have problems with the intake boots after 2007? I was told that in 2007 or 08 they came out with new boots from a different manufacturer and fixed those issues.

My sled (2010 IQ 600 Shift) was running lean coming to stop signs. Staying at around 4000 rpms but only occuring sometimes. It only started happening around 1500 miles. We didn't check the boots thoroughly but I did change the fuel filter. That seemed to be clogged. It was very hard to blow through it. I never had a chance to ride it after we did that so I'm hoping that was the problem.
 

srt20

Active member
Gotta check intake boots on all sleds, except maybe Yamaha. Polaris boots have sucked for years. My 08 burned down from the boots. The new and improved ones are lasting longer, but not forever.
 

xcsp

Member
Gotta check intake boots on all sleds, except maybe Yamaha. Polaris boots have sucked for years. My 08 burned down from the boots. The new and improved ones are lasting longer, but not forever.

Ski Doo had a lot of issues with carb boots as well.

Not sure if Polaris' carb boot failures were due to a supplier or design problem or could it be in the sleds after the EDGE chassis, maybe too rigid of mounting between the carburetors and airbox and didn't allow for some movement?
 
So you're saying that they have problems with the intake boots after 2007? I was told that in 2007 or 08 they came out with new boots from a different manufacturer and fixed those issues.

My sled (2010 IQ 600 Shift) was running lean coming to stop signs. Staying at around 4000 rpms but only occuring sometimes. It only started happening around 1500 miles. We didn't check the boots thoroughly but I did change the fuel filter. That seemed to be clogged. It was very hard to blow through it. I never had a chance to ride it after we did that so I'm hoping that was the problem.

Polarice,

Its possible ur filter was the problem...but if you got spare time this summer id pull the air box, then the throttle bodies, then the boots and check them. the metal base (inside) and rubber (throttle body side) delaminate from themselves. The couple sleds we have had problems with had very minimal problems but just enough to suck extra air in and most cases take out a cylinder...not trying to scare anyone but thats my 2cents. The 06 600s had recalled boots...and the 07-? 600/700 cleanfires had the "updated" 1 piece boots that we have found this problem with. again i just gotta remember where it is but i have a torn one ill try to get some pics of
 
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