I believe the 3 models mentioned all have the same issue getting to the airbox.
Does anyone have an 'easy' way to fog these sleds? There's many posts I've seen elsewhere but none look easy. Drilling holes and such which I'm not interested in doing with a brand new sled.
I cants say about the air box .I usualy like to slowly turn over and spray fog down plugs then litterly fill the crank case with oil I slowly turn over and pour oil down the plug holes I like my crank to get a long oil bath.come fall I will pull my plugs pull the rope 10 times or so to get some of that oil out then start it up in a glorious cloud of 2stroke smoke.
only lost 1 crank in my like and that was a doo800 so not the summerising.
I have seen alot of rusty cranks in my day from bad storage come thrugh my buds shop
On my 2011 Rush LX all I did was poor some oil down the plug hole like ezra said. Turn over slowly to coat things up, put the plugs back in and say goodnight. This was after syphoning most the gas out and a good triple dose of stabil, letting it run until you smell the stabil in the exaust. I don't use two stroke down the plug holes, usually 10w30 or what ever is in the cabinet at the time. Never ever had a problem doing this and will do the Adventure this way also. Does smoke alot in the fall when you start back up though, lol.
switch07... you say you did all this and never had a problem?? its a 2011! that means you did it one year. I sure hope to god you don't have any problems.
That sounds like a winner to me. I think I will do this method.being in the marine bus. for 29 years,I will say I've had my fair share of experience with fogging oil. I do like the bombadier(used to be omc) fogging oil. I am sure merc or any other manufacturers oil is good. also have used some aftermarket stuff and wasnt impressed! where I did notice the difference is if I was "coating" a part,like a crank,that was not in the engine.the aftermarket did not "stick" or adhere like the oem. one method I've used,when air box is a pain,is take out plugs,put piston down,and then use the tube,that comes with can of fogging oil,and get it down in transfer ports.that way i know its getting in crank area.then some on top of piston.do both cylinders,put plugs back in,with ignition off,pull cord 3 or 4 times,then fire up for about 5 or so seconds.never had a problem doing it this way.
being in the marine bus. for 29 years,I will say I've had my fair share of experience with fogging oil. I do like the bombadier(used to be omc) fogging oil. I am sure merc or any other manufacturers oil is good. also have used some aftermarket stuff and wasnt impressed! where I did notice the difference is if I was "coating" a part,like a crank,that was not in the engine.the aftermarket did not "stick" or adhere like the oem. one method I've used,when air box is a pain,is take out plugs,put piston down,and then use the tube,that comes with can of fogging oil,and get it down in transfer ports.that way i know its getting in crank area.then some on top of piston.do both cylinders,put plugs back in,with ignition off,pull cord 3 or 4 times,then fire up for about 5 or so seconds.never had a problem doing it this way.
Alright. Sounds simple enough and a LOT easier than removing the airbox. I may start doing this with all the sleds.
This is what we did. It is so easy to do. Pictures are below but it looks like they're in reverse order. Use for reference to see how professional of a job you can do yourself.
Take the side panel off where the secondary is. Remove the belt and secondary. There is a torx screw by where your left foot would be that has to be removed in order to take the secondary off.
Once the secondary is off, you will see your airbox. Mine was covered in the heat deflector tape. I removed the tape on the bottom half of the airbox with a razor blade.
Then, get a 1 3/8" hole saw and drill a hole in the center. There is a polaris part number 5410344 ($5.00) that is a rubber plug. By drilling the hole there is plenty of room to fog. We did use a copper extension on the end of the can but I don't think it's even needed. The plug will cover the hole perfectly!
We let it idle and fogged one cylinder out. Then we shut it off. Moved to the other cylinder and fired it up. At this point you have to give it some throttle, so it's nice to have 2 people, or else it will stall out totally.
This is so easy, I may do this same thing to both of my IQs instead of taking those dang airbox's off!
Now you have no reason not to fog your motor like an idiot. The dealer I bought this sled from is worthless for service. They said; "It really doesn't need to fogged since it's semi-direct injection." Really? Is that why the owner's manual says; "Fog as the fogging oil directions on can says." What a bunch of lazy idiots! The only thing they're good for is a good price on a sled.
That has nothing to do with whether or not it needs to be fogged. WOW and by the way, it's not semi-direct injection either. They must really not want your service or something... At least you probably got a good deal from them.They said; "It really doesn't need to fogged since it's semi-direct injection."