Fogging Rush/Switchback/Assault question

Polarice

New member
I believe the 3 models mentioned all have the same issue getting to the airbox.

Does anyone have an 'easy' way to fog these sleds? There's many posts I've seen elsewhere but none look easy. Drilling holes and such which I'm not interested in doing with a brand new sled.
 

ezra

Well-known member
I believe the 3 models mentioned all have the same issue getting to the airbox.

Does anyone have an 'easy' way to fog these sleds? There's many posts I've seen elsewhere but none look easy. Drilling holes and such which I'm not interested in doing with a brand new sled.

I cants say about the air box .I usualy like to slowly turn over and spray fog down plugs then litterly fill the crank case with oil I slowly turn over and pour oil down the plug holes I like my crank to get a long oil bath.come fall I will pull my plugs pull the rope 10 times or so to get some of that oil out then start it up in a glorious cloud of 2stroke smoke.
only lost 1 crank in my like and that was a doo800 so not the summerising.
I have seen alot of rusty cranks in my day from bad storage come thrugh my buds shop
 

Polarice

New member
I cants say about the air box .I usualy like to slowly turn over and spray fog down plugs then litterly fill the crank case with oil I slowly turn over and pour oil down the plug holes I like my crank to get a long oil bath.come fall I will pull my plugs pull the rope 10 times or so to get some of that oil out then start it up in a glorious cloud of 2stroke smoke.
only lost 1 crank in my like and that was a doo800 so not the summerising.
I have seen alot of rusty cranks in my day from bad storage come thrugh my buds shop

Let me get this straight. You just dump 2 stroke oil down your plug holes while slowly turning it over? Do you use the rope or turn the clutch? How much oil do you dump in there?

When you give it the 10 pulls without the plugs in, does oil go everywhere?

This actually sounds a lot easier than fogging. I wonder if it's as effective. Of course if you completely fill the crank case it must be.
 

timo

Well-known member
my etec comes with its automatic fogging sensor. just press a couple of buttons and it summerizies itself. no need to pull off air box or anything.
 

ezra

Well-known member
no I pull it with plug out 10 times or so I usualy just lay a rag over head.
no oil all over and as far as pouring oil down jug I just pour oil down hole when piston is close to top dead center till close to full, turn clutch if on that side or rope if on other just a few revalutions is all you need to coat.I then do other side same.I then wd40 more or less whole skid motor shocks well anything alloy or steel loosen shock springs set rear on stand and close the trailer.
I would say as far as how mutch oil prob 1/4 of a quart or a bit less for 2 sleds and the brand is unimportant lol.last yr I used 2 of the small bottels for my chain saw because they were with in reach
just want that crank to make a few slow spins in that oil bath for a nice thick coat
 

switch07

Member
On my 2011 Rush LX all I did was poor some oil down the plug hole like ezra said. Turn over slowly to coat things up, put the plugs back in and say goodnight. This was after syphoning most the gas out and a good triple dose of stabil, letting it run until you smell the stabil in the exaust. I don't use two stroke down the plug holes, usually 10w30 or what ever is in the cabinet at the time. Never ever had a problem doing this and will do the Adventure this way also. Does smoke alot in the fall when you start back up though, lol.
 

timo

Well-known member
switch07... you say you did all this and never had a problem?? its a 2011! that means you did it one year. I sure hope to god you don't have any problems.


On my 2011 Rush LX all I did was poor some oil down the plug hole like ezra said. Turn over slowly to coat things up, put the plugs back in and say goodnight. This was after syphoning most the gas out and a good triple dose of stabil, letting it run until you smell the stabil in the exaust. I don't use two stroke down the plug holes, usually 10w30 or what ever is in the cabinet at the time. Never ever had a problem doing this and will do the Adventure this way also. Does smoke alot in the fall when you start back up though, lol.
 

switch07

Member
Not my first load of pickles here. Been riding since 1969, Polaris's since 1990 and thats what I meant by saying never had a problem. Been doing the same layup routine for years and years.........


switch07... you say you did all this and never had a problem?? its a 2011! that means you did it one year. I sure hope to god you don't have any problems.
 

Polarice

New member
So you guys are not using 2 stroke down the plug holes? Just whatever? I have a gallon of Amsoil that I use to top off the car when we change the oil. 0w30. It takes like 4.1 quarts or something so I have extra.
 
D

Deleted member 10829

Guest
See my post in the thread "Is fogging the engine really necessary?" I do about the same thing ezra does without an issue for 20 years. It's better than fogging IMO. I also
WD40 under the entire hood, the skis and the entire skid.
 

snake

Member
being in the marine bus. for 29 years,I will say I've had my fair share of experience with fogging oil. I do like the bombadier(used to be omc) fogging oil. I am sure merc or any other manufacturers oil is good. also have used some aftermarket stuff and wasnt impressed! where I did notice the difference is if I was "coating" a part,like a crank,that was not in the engine.the aftermarket did not "stick" or adhere like the oem. one method I've used,when air box is a pain,is take out plugs,put piston down,and then use the tube,that comes with can of fogging oil,and get it down in transfer ports.that way i know its getting in crank area.then some on top of piston.do both cylinders,put plugs back in,with ignition off,pull cord 3 or 4 times,then fire up for about 5 or so seconds.never had a problem doing it this way.
 

catalac

Active member
being in the marine bus. for 29 years,I will say I've had my fair share of experience with fogging oil. I do like the bombadier(used to be omc) fogging oil. I am sure merc or any other manufacturers oil is good. also have used some aftermarket stuff and wasnt impressed! where I did notice the difference is if I was "coating" a part,like a crank,that was not in the engine.the aftermarket did not "stick" or adhere like the oem. one method I've used,when air box is a pain,is take out plugs,put piston down,and then use the tube,that comes with can of fogging oil,and get it down in transfer ports.that way i know its getting in crank area.then some on top of piston.do both cylinders,put plugs back in,with ignition off,pull cord 3 or 4 times,then fire up for about 5 or so seconds.never had a problem doing it this way.
That sounds like a winner to me. I think I will do this method.
Thanks Snake..
 

Polarice

New member
being in the marine bus. for 29 years,I will say I've had my fair share of experience with fogging oil. I do like the bombadier(used to be omc) fogging oil. I am sure merc or any other manufacturers oil is good. also have used some aftermarket stuff and wasnt impressed! where I did notice the difference is if I was "coating" a part,like a crank,that was not in the engine.the aftermarket did not "stick" or adhere like the oem. one method I've used,when air box is a pain,is take out plugs,put piston down,and then use the tube,that comes with can of fogging oil,and get it down in transfer ports.that way i know its getting in crank area.then some on top of piston.do both cylinders,put plugs back in,with ignition off,pull cord 3 or 4 times,then fire up for about 5 or so seconds.never had a problem doing it this way.

Excuse my ignorance; how do you know you're into the transfer case? If you run the piston down, is there a hole or port or something in view? Would it be on the intake side?
 

snake

Member
the transfer ports are on the sides or perpendicular to intake and exhaust. you may need to bend tube a little. I remove the spray nozzle and tube from can and get into position 1st,then put can on. you can tell when you're into the transfer ports=you can feel the tube on top of piston,then it will drop more when you find port. after you do it a few times,its pretty easy=you can tell.not a bad way to do it,if you guys are pouring oil in,but i think you will have better results if piston is all the way down,so oil for sure gets to c.c via the transfers,otherwise if at tdc then transfers are closed and it may just run out the exhaust.I would just caution anyone to not put too much in,it is possible to hydro a motor!
 

Polarice

New member
Alright. Sounds simple enough and a LOT easier than removing the airbox. I may start doing this with all the sleds.
 

xcsp

Member
Alright. Sounds simple enough and a LOT easier than removing the airbox. I may start doing this with all the sleds.

Yeah, these newer sleds can be a pita to remove the airbox!

Be careful not to lose a spray tube into the cylinder when spraying.

Would be good to see a demo of this "fogging" style and the results of how well the coverage is.
 

Polarice

New member
Fogging-unbelievably simple

This is what we did. It is so easy to do. Pictures are below but it looks like they're in reverse order. Use for reference to see how professional of a job you can do yourself.

Take the side panel off where the secondary is. Remove the belt and secondary. There is a torx screw by where your left foot would be that has to be removed in order to take the secondary off.

Once the secondary is off, you will see your airbox. Mine was covered in the heat deflector tape. I removed the tape on the bottom half of the airbox with a razor blade.

Then, get a 1 3/8" hole saw and drill a hole in the center. There is a polaris part number 5410344 ($5.00) that is a rubber plug. By drilling the hole there is plenty of room to fog. We did use a copper extension on the end of the can but I don't think it's even needed. The plug will cover the hole perfectly!

We let it idle and fogged one cylinder out. Then we shut it off. Moved to the other cylinder and fired it up. At this point you have to give it some throttle, so it's nice to have 2 people, or else it will stall out totally.

This is so easy, I may do this same thing to both of my IQs instead of taking those dang airbox's off!

Now you have no reason not to fog your motor like an idiot. The dealer I bought this sled from is worthless for service. They said; "It really doesn't need to fogged since it's semi-direct injection." Really? Is that why the owner's manual says; "Fog as the fogging oil directions on can says." What a bunch of lazy idiots! The only thing they're good for is a good price on a sled.
 

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Dave_B

Active member
I may have missed the answer to this but, why not use regular sled oil like Polaris VES Gold? That's what I've been doing. Should I be using a different type oil for any particular reason? Just curious.

Dave
 
This is what we did. It is so easy to do. Pictures are below but it looks like they're in reverse order. Use for reference to see how professional of a job you can do yourself.

Take the side panel off where the secondary is. Remove the belt and secondary. There is a torx screw by where your left foot would be that has to be removed in order to take the secondary off.

Once the secondary is off, you will see your airbox. Mine was covered in the heat deflector tape. I removed the tape on the bottom half of the airbox with a razor blade.

Then, get a 1 3/8" hole saw and drill a hole in the center. There is a polaris part number 5410344 ($5.00) that is a rubber plug. By drilling the hole there is plenty of room to fog. We did use a copper extension on the end of the can but I don't think it's even needed. The plug will cover the hole perfectly!

We let it idle and fogged one cylinder out. Then we shut it off. Moved to the other cylinder and fired it up. At this point you have to give it some throttle, so it's nice to have 2 people, or else it will stall out totally.

This is so easy, I may do this same thing to both of my IQs instead of taking those dang airbox's off!

Now you have no reason not to fog your motor like an idiot. The dealer I bought this sled from is worthless for service. They said; "It really doesn't need to fogged since it's semi-direct injection." Really? Is that why the owner's manual says; "Fog as the fogging oil directions on can says." What a bunch of lazy idiots! The only thing they're good for is a good price on a sled.

Couldn't that void your warranty? Drilling a hole in the airbox? Maybe I'm crazy but that screams Polaris not covering a motor problem because they didn't put a hole and plug in from the factory???
 

indy_500

Well-known member
They said; "It really doesn't need to fogged since it's semi-direct injection."
That has nothing to do with whether or not it needs to be fogged. WOW and by the way, it's not semi-direct injection either. They must really not want your service or something... At least you probably got a good deal from them.
 
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